Amsoil Prefered Customer Program (1 Viewer)

[packetstormin]

So I have been doing a lot of reading about Amsoil oil products and I decided to pull the trigger and order oil for the hundy. An individual no longer has to be a dealer in order to get the discount anymore. Amsoil now offers a preferred customer discount which you have to pay twenty bucks for if you want the one year membership or 10 bucks for the six month membership. The reason this is such a good deal aside from the 20 dollar membership fee and tax and shipping is my order without all the came to 60 bucks for two one gallon containers of their high end 10w30 oil. Which makes it the same price as what I was paying from Walmart for two one gallon jugs of Mobile 1 synthetic. So basically the next time I order oil in about five thousand miles or so my cost shipped with tax will be about seventy four dollars which isn't bad for what appears to be the best oil money can buy. Next month I will be pulling the trigger on diff fluid because their sever gear fluid is supposed to be top notch stuff. Just so that all can see the discount the normal price for two gallons of their signature series 10w30 oil is $76.90 and I bought two gallons with the discount for $59.20 so that is a savings of 17.70 dollars which is good in my opinion.

I just wanted to post up and share this info in case anyone was interested in getting Amsoil products. By the way I am in no way affiliated with Amsoil and am not trying to push their products. I just wanted to post this info so my fellow CSC members can enjoy a discount...

 

[azTony]

I have used Amsoil in the Harley for 9 years now and in the Tundra we just traded in last year, I like the product.

 

[packetstormin]

From everything I have read it appears to be really good stuff. Now I am sure some people will turn the flame on and say don't waste the money and just drain and refill the diff with the cheap stuff more often but the fact is I don't do a lot of water crossings and it just seems like cheap insurance to run a really good diff oil. My rig has 223,550 miles on it and they are the original thirds so I figure it would be best to spend a little money up front on a good oil instead of replacing a 900 dollar hunk of metal on my rig. Currently I run royal purple and do think the Amsoil will be a much better product. Currently I am saving up to buy pre built thirds with arb lockers and 4.88 gears from JT differential (Phil put that really expensive idea in my head) but from reading it does appear that the arb lockers are more stout than the factory lockers. Also I figure since its full time 4WD that it would be a great idea to run a high quality gear oil in the transfer-case.

 

[Tools R Us]

... The reason this is such a good deal aside from the 20 dollar membership fee and tax and shipping is my order without all the came to 60 bucks for two one gallon containers of their high end 10w30 oil. Which makes it the same price as what I was paying from Walmart for two one gallon jugs of Mobile 1 synthetic. ...

The Mobil One from Wallyworld is 5qt, not 1gal.

Have used lots of Amsoil with good results, but oils have come a long way, so most oil is about the same (despite amsoil's claims). I'm not a fan of MLM companies, also don't buy from Amway, Avon, Monti-visa, etc, see it as a sure fire way to pay more than needed for product.

Testing has proven many times that the FZJ80 is very easy on lube, use whatever you prefer and will get good results. Boutique oils will only net a lighter wallet. I only use Mobil One because I'm lazy, it lasts longer so I don't have to change it as often. It is also readily available, don't have to be a "dealer", have it shipped, etc, simply cruise over and pick some up.

 

[Tools R Us]

... Now I am sure some people will turn the flame on and say don't waste the money and just drain and refill the diff with the cheap stuff more often but the fact is I don't do a lot of water crossings and it just seems like cheap insurance to run a really good diff oil. ...

No flame, just facts. Due to the design of the '80 axles, there will always be some migration of grease into the oil. This will thicken the gear oil out of grade, when run too long between changes, is likely the leading cause of diff heating causing gear and bearing issues. Running boutique gear oil does nothing to extend the change interval.

The biggest difference between dyno and syn oils is life, syn oils last longer before the additive package is depleted. The moly in the knuckles will always migrate into the gear oil, so the moly will always need to be replenished and the gear oil will always need to be changed more often than other designs of axles.

Again, no flame, run whatever makes you happy. But at the change interval needed for good life of the axles, dyno oil is a more economical choice and boutique gear oil will do nothing for axle life, only net a lighter wallet.

 

[Kurtis]

Is the amsoil fully synthetic as well? If so what do they recommend for service intervals out of curiosity?

I'm the same way with synthetic. I hate changing oil often. I change the oil in my civic about every 10k and my work truck about 7.5k. They both come out looking clean at those intervals. The honda is at 185k and still burns no oil with 10k intervals. I had the head gasket replaced and the head went through at 155k and the cylinder walls were beautiful and compression was near perfect. The truck is only at 102 k and I have no idea what it looks like inside but the oil is still perfect looking at 7.5k.

The civic is what blows my mind. For as high of rpms that car runs at I couldn't believe how good it looked inside and how it burns no oil.

I don't run synthetic in my 60 with the tbi5.7 though. I put it in the motor with 100k miles and with the small block I was worried about leaks or blow by with the thinner oil. In hind site it probably would have been fine but I don't mind changing the oil in the 60 every 3k since that its only about once a year and now and since its that sparse it gives me a chance to see whats going on in there at least once a year.

 

[packetstormin]

I do believe Amsoil is fully synthetic. The literature that I received said that a safe change interval was 10k miles. I also know that if you install there double bypass filter system the interval goes to 25k miles which is impressive.

 

[packetstormin]

The Mobil One from Wallyworld is 5qt, not 1gal.

Have used lots of Amsoil with good results, but oils have come a long way, so most oil is about the same (despite amsoil's claims). I'm not a fan of MLM companies, also don't buy from Amway, Avon, Monti-visa, etc, see it as a sure fire way to pay more than needed for product.

Testing has proven many times that the FZJ80 is very easy on lube, use whatever you prefer and will get good results. Boutique oils will only net a lighter wallet. I only use Mobil One because I'm lazy, it lasts longer so I don't have to change it as often. It is also readily available, don't have to be a "dealer", have it shipped, etc, simply cruise over and pick some up.

Kevin you are correct, I thought it was a one gallon jug that I was buying from Walmart. So maybe the deal from Amsoil is not as good as I originally had thought. I believe that using a really superior oil in the hundy may prevent future issues and since its my wife's dd I figured it may be a good oil to use on that rig because she puts about fifty highway miles on it a day. I am nervous going over 5k miles on an oil change but may try and run the hundy to 7k with an oil analysis. What I really am hoping to achieve is the prevention of future issues like I may be having with my 80.

I am not sure if it is my oil pump but as of late when I run the 80 for long periods with the AC on the oil pressure gets a little lower than I would like to see. It has about 1k miles on a new oil change and yota filter. I am running 10w30 in the 80. This is the first time I have had AC in my rig so what I think is happening is it is putting extra load on the engine and thus causing the oil pressure to drop. I kind of wish I had asked Murf to change out the oil pump when my rig was getting the HG done in January. The pressure doesn't ever bottom out but it goes below where it states it should be in the fsm and vehicle manual. Basically if you find the picture of where it shows it should be at its lowest my oil pressure reads a bit below where the picture shows the oil pressure at its lowest , kind of hard to explain with out a picture but if I can find it I will post it up.

 

[Tools R Us]

Kevin you are correct, I thought it was a one gallon jug that I was buying from Walmart. So maybe the deal from Amsoil is not as good as I originally had thought. I believe that using a really superior oil in the hundy may prevent future issues and since its my wife's dd I figured it may be a good oil to use on that rig because she puts about fifty highway miles on it a day. I am nervous going over 5k miles on an oil change but may try and run the hundy to 7k with an oil analysis. What I really am hoping to achieve is the prevention of future issues like I may be having with my 80.

I am not sure if it is my oil pump but as of late when I run the 80 for long periods with the AC on the oil pressure gets a little lower than I would like to see. It has about 1k miles on a new oil change and yota filter. I am running 10w30 in the 80. This is the first time I have had AC in my rig so what I think is happening is it is putting extra load on the engine and thus causing the oil pressure to drop. I kind of wish I had asked Murf to change out the oil pump when my rig was getting the HG done in January. The pressure doesn't ever bottom out but it goes below where it states it should be in the fsm and vehicle manual. Basically if you find the picture of where it shows it should be at its lowest my oil pressure reads a bit below where the picture shows the oil pressure at its lowest , kind of hard to explain with out a picture but if I can find it I will post it up.

The 4.7L is just as easy, if not easier on oil than the 1FZ. If you cant run it further than 7.5k, just run good dino oil, any syn will easily go 10k.

The oil pump likely has nothing to do with it, my 1FZ also shows way low pressure with 10W-30. I use the Aussie 1FZ oil chart and run 15W-50, shows nice pressure. That combined with moving to the small filter almost totally eliminated the cold start chain rattle.

Why would the 1FZ ever need more filtration? They make almost zero junk, I have cut every filter apart and never found anything in them, even after 11K miles.

 

[packetstormin]

No flame, just facts. Due to the design of the '80 axles, there will always be some migration of grease into the oil. This will thicken the gear oil out of grade, when run too long between changes, is likely the leading cause of diff heating causing gear and bearing issues. Running boutique gear oil does nothing to extend the change interval.

The biggest difference between dyno and syn oils is life, syn oils last longer before the additive package is depleted. The moly in the knuckles will always migrate into the gear oil, so the moly will always need to be replenished and the gear oil will always need to be changed more often than other designs of axles.

Again, no flame, run whatever makes you happy. But at the change interval needed for good life of the axles, dyno oil is a more economical choice and boutique gear oil will do nothing for axle life, only net a lighter wallet.

The basic notion that I found through the various articles that I read was that syn was better because it doesn't break down as quickly in high temp situations. Now I am not sure how hot a diff gets but it seemed logical enough to me. Kevin you obviously have quite a bit of knowledge on this subject so maybe Ill ask a dumb question. Does it matter if I run syn vs. dyno when I get the lockers? Again my reasoning is that lockers work very hard when they are locked so it could be a high heat situation where syn may be beneficial. Obviously the best solution would to be running finned diff covers to help dissipate the heat but we cant on our vehicles.

As far as the drain interval goes I thought it was the normal 30k mile drain interval. Again this could be a stupid question but I thought most Toyota trucks called for a 30k drain interval on the diffs, as I know my 01 4runner did as well as my LX470 and I think my hundy does too.

 

[Tools R Us]

The basic notion that I found through the various articles that I read was that syn was better because it doesn't break down as quickly in high temp situations. Now I am not sure how hot a diff gets but it seemed logical enough to me.

Correct, syn lasts longer. Mainly the additive package, but also thickening out of grade, etc. Define "quickly" if dino is good for 30K, syn should be good for 50-60K, ether way irrelevant to the change interval on '80 axles.

Kevin you obviously have quite a bit of knowledge on this subject so maybe Ill ask a dumb question. Does it matter if I run syn vs. dyno when I get the lockers? Again my reasoning is that lockers work very hard when they are locked so it could be a high heat situation where syn may be beneficial. Obviously the best solution would to be running finned diff covers to help dissipate the heat but we cant on our vehicles.

Most heat/oil stress is from high speed running, lockers are only run at low speed, so no issue. As long as the lube is relatively fresh, I have never seen diff temp numbers that I would worry about, normal operating temps, no need for a cooler.

As far as the drain interval goes I thought it was the normal 30k mile drain interval. Again this could be a stupid question but I thought most Toyota trucks called for a 30k drain interval on the diffs, as I know my 01 4runner did as well as my LX470 and I think my hundy does too.

Those are semi float/IFS rigs, different deal, no grease migration. The '80 may also call for 30K change, never checked, don't care. Have changed tons of them and they always have grease contamination, a little isn't going to do any harm, may even be somewhat beneficial. The problem is from excessive thickening the oil, thicker oil more easily foams, gets flung away from the gears, doesn't transfer heat as well, so causes excessive heat and accelerated wear. For '80 axles, fresh oil is best, I usually change it every year, ~12K, so I use the cheap stuff and change it often.

 

[-Spike-]

I know very little, so don't take this as an answer, rather a guess. I doubt the locker adds any heat to a diff, and I doubt a diff gets particularly hot compared to an engine. With no combustion in the system, diff oil has a pretty easy life as far as I know.

EDIT- posted this after walking away from the 'puter for awhile, Tools got there first.