alternator help

[Jan-78FJ40]

This is related to the dual battery questions I have:
Here's the diagram of my HJ60 charging circuit. There is a single lug connecting to the + pole of the battery (besides the starter cable, of course). This splits into 2 fusible links, just as in the schematic.
from the diagram I assume that one (0.5G) goes to the ignition, and then further to various things like glow system and whatnot.
The other one (1.0Y) comes from the alternator over the alt. regulator. Is that the input from the alternator?
Can these be seperated, in a way that puts the input on one side of an isolator (auxiliary battery), and the other (ignition) on the main battery, assuming that the isolator allows charging of both batteries?
thanks
Jan

 

[roscoFJ73]

Is yours a 12v or 24v system? Because the 12v dual batteries are wired up different from memory.(Well the one I had was but I dont profess to know much about electrics)

This is how mine was wired on a 12V HJ61 I had for a short while. Thats a switch in the middle

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Is yours a 12v or 24v system? Because the 12v dual batteries are wired up different from memory.(Well the one I had was but I dont profess to know much about electrics)

This is how mine was wired on a 12V HJ61 I had for a short while. Thats a switch in the middle

it's a 12V, originally with a single battery.
thanks
j

 

[Ron R]

I don't know or I'm understanding correctly what you want to achieve.
What I understand is that you want to add a second battery and use this for everything, except starting/ignition?
This second battery has to be charged from the standard alternator?

And you want to do this by adding an isolator.
No problemo
In your drawing, inbetween the fusible link 1.0Y and the battery, create a connection that connects to the isolator. From that isolator create a connection to the second battery.
For this isolator you can use a special diode, a relay or a manual switch. I would go for the diode. If you choose the relay, this has to be a heavy-duty one.
The input for this relay can be taken from either the ignition (as soon as ignition is switched on, the relay is engaged) or from point 'L' on the regulator (the relay is engaged as soon as the generator starts charging).
Disadvantage of the first (by ignition) is that the aux-battery is connected to the starter battery at the moment of starting. If it's low it then will draw from the starter-battery. Advantage is when the starter-battery is low and the aux is high, it will assist.
If you go for the diode option there is a slight drop in voltage towards the batterie. Big advantage: it's not mechanical and it cannot stick or be forgotten to switch off.
A manual I would only use as a backup. Use it parallel to either the relay or diode. In case this part fails you can override it with the switch.

Oh and then some splicing and re-routing has to be done to isolate the ignition part from the (main) electrical system.

Make sure the parts and wiring you are using is up to the task. Use fuses where needed!!! Always put these fuses as close to the power source as possible.
Before messing around in the system, disconnect the battery!!

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I don't know or I'm understanding correctly what you want to achieve.
What I understand is that you want to add a second battery and use this for everything, except starting/ignition?
This second battery has to be charged from the standard alternator?

And you want to do this by adding an isolator.
No problemo
In your drawing, inbetween the fusible link 1.0Y and the battery, create a connection that connects to the isolator. From that isolator create a connection to the second battery.
For this isolator you can use a special diode, a relay or a manual switch. I would go for the diode. If you choose the relay, this has to be a heavy-duty one.
The input for this relay can be taken from either the ignition (as soon as ignition is switched on, the relay is engaged) or from point 'L' on the regulator (the relay is engaged as soon as the generator starts charging).
Disadvantage of the first (by ignition) is that the aux-battery is connected to the starter battery at the moment of starting. If it's low it then will draw from the starter-battery. Advantage is when the starter-battery is low and the aux is high, it will assist.
If you go for the diode option there is a slight drop in voltage towards the batterie. Big advantage: it's not mechanical and it cannot stick or be forgotten to switch off.
A manual I would only use as a backup. Use it parallel to either the relay or diode. In case this part fails you can override it with the switch.

Oh and then some splicing and re-routing has to be done to isolate the ignition part from the (main) electrical system.

Make sure the parts and wiring you are using is up to the task. Use fuses where needed!!! Always put these fuses as close to the power source as possible.
Before messing around in the system, disconnect the battery!!

Thank you Ron!

I was hoping to go much more simple.

The isolator I have allows current flow from the aux battery to the main battery, but never the other way around.
Therefore, if I put the charge from the alternator to the aux side of the isolator, it will charge the lower battery, which can only be the aux battery (since it will equalize with the main battery by discharging through the isolator, if the main battery becomes lower).
so if I simply move the 1.0Y to the aux side, I should be fine.
I would welcome your thoughts.
thank you,
Jan

 

[Ron R]

Jan,
I don't know your isolator.
But meanwhile I've been reading the 60-series forum and I think the Isolator you have is the FET-base solid state article. I don't know that unit, but I assume it has three 'studs' , one 'entry' and two 'exits'.
If so, then connect the 'entry' to the lead coming from the alternator and has the fusible link it. Keep the fuse in between the isolator and the generator.
The two 'exits' of the isolator should be connected to the pluspole of the main- and the aux battery. So the one exit to one of the two batteries the other one to the second one.
I've not been able to find out or these 'exits' have a certain designation. In other words, one of the exits could be designed especially to be connected to the second battery and the other one to the main battery.
That you have to find out by the manufacturer.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Jan,
I don't know your isolator.
But meanwhile I've been reading the 60-series forum and I think the Isolator you have is the FET-base solid state article. I don't know that unit, but I assume it has three 'studs' , one 'entry' and two 'exits'.
If so, then connect the 'entry' to the lead coming from the alternator and has the fusible link it. Keep the fuse in between the isolator and the generator.
The two 'exits' of the isolator should be connected to the pluspole of the main- and the aux battery. So the one exit to one of the two batteries the other one to the second one.
I've not been able to find out or these 'exits' have a certain designation. In other words, one of the exits could be designed especially to be connected to the second battery and the other one to the main battery.
That you have to find out by the manufacturer.

Thank you Ron.
Yes, it's a fet based one, but with 2 studs, not 3. the diagram is here http://www.perfectswitch.com/isolator.htm

cheers,
Jan

 

[Ron R]

Jan,
as far as I understand what you want to achieve is having the possiblity to draw from your aux battery without using the main batterie, i.e. when camping and the enigine is not running.
In that case follow the indications given on the website which link you provided.
To achieve this disconnect the alternator-lead from the main battery and put it on the aux battery. Maintain the fusible link. In between the fusible link and the aux battery connect the input-side of the isolator.
Then connect the output-side of the isolator to the main battery.
This way when using the aux battery (engine out) won't draw from the main.
The other way around, when drawing from the main batterie, the aux battery will 'assist'.
If you want to avoid this as well then buy a second isolator. Connect the input side of each one to the alternator and each output side to it's 'own' battery.
Or wait for the product that's announced down the website "COMING SOON" . This effectively is two of the units - as you have now - placed back to back in one.
(In fact that is an Isolator as I described before.)

But you still have to isolate the ignition-circuit from the remainder of the electrical system.

Hope this clarified a bit.
If you have more questions ask, but at the moment I'm about to leave home until tomorrow, so I won't be able to answer on short notice.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Jan,
as far as I understand what you want to achieve is having the possiblity to draw from your aux battery without using the main batterie, i.e. when camping and the enigine is not running.
In that case follow the indications given on the website which link you provided.
To achieve this disconnect the alternator-lead from the main battery and put it on the aux battery. Maintain the fusible link. In between the fusible link and the aux battery connect the input-side of the isolator.
Then connect the output-side of the isolator to the main battery.
This way when using the aux battery (engine out) won't draw from the main.
The other way around, when drawing from the main batterie, the aux battery will 'assist'.
If you want to avoid this as well then buy a second isolator. Connect the input side of each one to the alternator and each output side to it's 'own' battery.
Or wait for the product that's announced down the website "COMING SOON" . This effectively is two of the units - as you have now - placed back to back in one.
(In fact that is an Isolator as I described before.)

But you still have to isolate the ignition-circuit from the remainder of the electrical system.

Hope this clarified a bit.
If you have more questions ask, but at the moment I'm about to leave home until tomorrow, so I won't be able to answer on short notice.

thank you, it's all clear.

cheers,
J