All Diff Locks Working

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Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Threads
16
Messages
416
Location
West Wales UK
I would like to thank all those who helped me with advice, especially cruiserdan who has supported me with parts and information with out which I would be still struggling :cheers: .

:D All my Diff Locks are know working CDL, RDL and FDL and what a joy and relief that is. They are so essential to me and I was very worried without them because as I have said before my remote farmstead has a very tenuous approach which requires a 4x4 with good capabilities and when the weather is foul I have struggled at times to get in and out with any grace. This has given me the insurance which I need.

I can now look forward to adding some useful extras when I have saved up my pocket money, so will be looking for tyres and hopefully a lift to accommodate them. I will have to add them bit by bit and would like to stretch to 35 inch mud terrain tyres but fear the changes needed, will stretch me too far financially as I think I will only be able to do a simple lift without adding adjustable panhard rods caster correction etc, etc. I have read loads of stuff here and on Slee’s site but am still a little confused as to the minimum I can get away with for a short while as long as I don’t ask it to go to extreme articulation. I may have to settle for 285’s or perhaps a compromise of 295’s. My main problem is negotiating deep farm ruts that scrape my differentials, radius arm chassis mounts and rear damper lower attachment points.

But at least now I shall be able to access some of the off road routes and trails that I enjoy diving in this part of Wales with my bog standard CDL switched 1994HDJ80 1HD-T with the knowledge that traction will not be lacking on the mechanical front at least.
 
If your goal is to get the axles up out of the mud go with the 315s. On my brothers '96 with Nitto 315s the front cleared stock, the front mud flaps may need to be trimmed, his are not on the truck so we haven't dealt with that yet. The rear needed two inch spacers for the bump stops, effectively killing the stock travel, not a problem with the J spring setup we put on it. Will work with the 2" lift but have less travel.

It did take a big hit in on road performance, if you tow it will need a regear. His quote is, "it's a rocket ship compared to my 22R 4 Runner with 31" tires. The trail test is Sunday, I think in his case the trail advantage will outweigh the road losses, I wish I had put them on mine.

Stock

rob_before1.jpg


With J springs

rob_done.jpg
 
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Tools,

The rig is looking great! Couple of questions with the J spring set up.

1. Did you install drop brackets or just use the plain stock bracket?

2. Do you have an extended brake lines with this set up?

Thanks.
 
We made drop brackets for the brake line, e-brake cable mount, rear stops and both sway bars. The stock soft brake line fit fine with the drop bracket.
 
Gold,

I'm running the NITTO 295's now and they were well worth it. No rubbing stock height (easily) and didn't really kill that much power. Lift will come later....
 
Tools,

So you fabricated the brackets. That is kewl. Thanks.

How the ride with these set up? Bumpy?
 
My Nitto 295s were installed when the truck was stock, they slightly touched at full flex in the rear wheel well, not enough to rub the paint off.

295_rub.jpg


I went from OME 2" to Js, so there wasn't much change, slightly firmer and a little taller.
 
I'm running the NITTO 295's now and they were well worth it. No rubbing stock height (easily) and didn't really kill that much power. Lift will come later....

Are the NITTO 295's Mud Tires? Does anyone make a 295/75/16 mud terrain?

I've only seen Yok's and BFG AT's.
 
Tools,

one more question. Are you running on a stock gearing?
 
Rob and I both have stock gears, will regear at birf job time. Rob's will be first, mine has 43K miles so it will be a while for me.
 
Tools,
Nice brush gaurd under that 80. Where did you get that or did you fab it?

FZJ80KIDPEN
 

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