Hello 62 owners, I have a problem that I have been unable to diagnose and unable to find by searching existing threads. A few weeks back I heard what sounded like the bearing in my power steering pump going bad so I replaced the unit and my low pressure lines (cracked) and flushed the system expecting the problem to be fixed. It seems that the sound I was hearing was actually the PS reservoir with air in the system causing the synthetic ATF (Dexron IV) to bubble and introduce air into the system. Initially I thought the air was being introduced at the bottom of the reservoir due to a smaller O ring but when I replaced with the correct size O ring that didn't solve the problem. The low pressure lines have been cleaned and are not leaking at any of the fittings. I flushed the system multiple times with clean fluid and it has remained the same. When driving, the PS system works perfectly with the wheel turning to the left but will stutter and refuse to work when turning right. I called the folks at West Texas Offroad regarding a steering box rebuild to remedy a leaking box but they said that it would not be the cause of air getting into the system. Is there an obvious fix that I am missing? Thanks for the help!
Air in Power Steering System (FJ62)
- Thread starter Hokierig
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- fj62 power steering
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There could still be air in the system.
Once the pump sucks in air from the reservoir, you're screwed for that purging cycle. The pump needs to stop and wait to allow the millions of microscopic bubbles that the pump created to coalesce into bigger bubbles to get purged into the reservoir on next start up.
Once the pump starts frothing air, the tiny bubbles just keep circulating around and around in the system, messing up the operation of the pump.
When the engine is cold, fill the fluid in the reservoir to the bottom of the HOT line on the dipstick.
Once the pump sucks in air from the reservoir, you're screwed for that purging cycle. The pump needs to stop and wait to allow the millions of microscopic bubbles that the pump created to coalesce into bigger bubbles to get purged into the reservoir on next start up.
Once the pump starts frothing air, the tiny bubbles just keep circulating around and around in the system, messing up the operation of the pump.
When the engine is cold, fill the fluid in the reservoir to the bottom of the HOT line on the dipstick.
did you elevate the front axle and cycle the steering fully to the left and then to the right.....multiple times to bleed the air ? No shortcuts to getting the air out, sometimes it works well in short order, other times it seems to take forever.
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- #5
I have done this process with the engine off. Is there any difference with the engine running other than it happening much quicker?
I'll make the switch and try again. Thanks for the advice and I will report back
X2 on jacking the front end off the ground and turning the steering wheel lock to lock 15+ times.
Toyotas use ATF, not power steering fluid.
Toyotas use ATF, not power steering fluid.
This. I had the same issue with noise and frothy bubbles. In the end "over" filling solved it.
cycling the steering when the engine is off will not push the air out as the pump is NOT TURNING...
I usually start and stop the engine multiple times to remove air . Leave the cap off the reservoir start the engine and watch the fluid drop then shut it off and wait . Repeat until there is no aerated fluid in the res. Usually 5 or 6 cycles is enough depending on the fluid capacity of your system . If you don't have a friend to help start and stop while you watch then you can do it by starting and letting it run for approximately 3 seconds then shut it off .
Instructions from Redhead Steering Gear for refilling a drained system but I would assume it would also apply in this case as well:
- Raise the front wheels off the ground, DO NOT start the vehicle.
- Work the steering wheel back and forth, lock to lock, 15-20 times.
- Leave the vehicle sit (overnight is best) AT LEAST 2 hours
- Top the pump reservoir off again.
- Work the steering wheel back and forth again 7-10 times
- Have a person in the vehicle and another at the pump reservoir with a container of fluid & funnel ready to pour if necessary.
- Instruct the person in the vehicle to start the engine. As soon as this happens, if the fluid level drops, be ready to pour in more fluid. The level must be kept at an almost full level or it will suck in air again.
cycling the steering when the engine is off will not push the air out as the pump is NOT TURNING...
On an 80 series, the engine is supposed to be 'off' (IIRC from the FSM) - and I was utterly unable to bleed the system until I cycled the wheels back and forth, with the front end off the ground, and the engine off.
Too bad the $330 Toyota reman pump only lasted 1 year before it lost boost and got noisy. I dumped Lucas oil 'miracle PS fix' in there and it worked perfectly after that.
On an 80 series, the engine is supposed to be 'off' (IIRC from the FSM) - and I was utterly unable to bleed the system until I cycled the wheels back and forth, with the front end off the ground, and the engine off.
Too bad the $330 Toyota reman pump only lasted 1 year before it lost boost and got noisy. I dumped Lucas oil 'miracle PS fix' in there and it worked perfectly after that.
I've never had any luck getting the air of the P/S, except to fill up the ps with fluid, and cycle the steering with the engine running, sometimes this takes 10min sometimes it takes 30mins and then some drive time. On my present PSC pump when I swapped the old GM ps pump out....pump primed and was good almost the 3rd or 4th cycle of the steering. For whatever reason some ps pumps just want to be a pain in the @$$. Also depends on if the system was brand new and or you have a cooler in the mix and the system was totally drained.
- Thread starter
- #14
So after 1 week of constant flushing and trying to get the air out of the system we have finally succeeded! And then the PS pump began leaking out of this "flow valve end plug" (language and photo taken from CruiserBrett's FJ62 PS pump rebuild thread). So I am going to do a full rebuild of the pump and try again. Hopefully the flushing process isn't as infuriating as the first time. Thanks everyone for the advice and I will revisit this thread after the rebuild.
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not so in a 3FE pump...2F has bushing that wears shaft, 3FE is bearing...I guess school is always open, Thanks for the tips about engine off. gratefully noted...
Great to know the 3FE pump can be reliably rebuilt!
I rebuilt my last year using a nice kit from AutoZone, a C-clip from American Toyota (former haunt of Beno and Cdan), and a Suzuki motorcycle bearing. Was an easy and inexpensive rebuild.
Details here: FJ62 Power Steering Pump Rebuild
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I'm the king of thrice learnt lessons...
- Thread starter
- #20
So to follow up with this thread, I was able to fix the issue with the PS pump system. I overfilled the reservoir and that seemed to fix the air problem. I also rebuilt the pump and no more leaking. All is well and thanks so much for the advice.