Air conditioner question

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Joined
Aug 8, 2007
Threads
59
Messages
390
Location
Murrieta, Ca.
Regarding a 1987 fj60, would an A/C system with low refrigerant cause the whole system not to turn on; meaning my A/C light on the dash turns on, but the 'idle up' and compressor don't turn on anymore. It used to be cold, but only at highway speeds. I knew I needed a recharge. I can't find anything else visually wrong with the system.
 
Don't think low refer would stop the entire system. Mine needed a new compressor along with a charge... wasn't cheap, but the dogs need it in the summer.
 
The system won't kick on if there isn't enough freon in the system. It seems like the front seal on the compressor is a pretty common place for these to leak.
 
In every cruiser we have owned ,for us,all leaks have been in the compressor,except one.Inhat one ,there was a hole in the condensor. MIke
 
Ultraviolet light and dye, at least you'll be able to figure out where the leak is before you start ripping everything apart.
GG
 
Like Granite Grinder said put some die in the system and use uv light they sell this at just about any parts store. Make sure it is the compressor first but as far as fixing the leak on the compressor it seems pretty hard without special tools. Mine started leaking from the front seal of the compressor last summer I inquired about changing the front seal and most people told me without special tools it was almost impossible. You could ask an a/c shop if they would do it, I ended up just getting another used compressor from another extremely helpful mud member. I vacuumed it down filled it up with oil and freon and its worked great. The a/c was previously converted to r134 and The used compressor had the fittings for r134 on it when I got it as well. When I did it this time I changed the reciever drier as well as the one on the system seemed original and when you convert from r12 to r134 this should be changed.
 
I would also advocate for dye. There are a couple things to be aware of: 1) the system has to be operational for the dye to circulate, which potentially means the loss of more refrigerant, 2) some leaks are difficult to find the dye, the hub of the compressor can hide it, or if it's in the evaporator box, it's hard to get in there to see it.

Common leak sites include the o-rings at the condenser hose connections, the o-rings at the expansion valve, hose crimps (look for oily residue), the hose and plate connections at the compressor and the compressor front seal or body o-rings.

I have an inexpensive (but bright) true UV LED dye light for $16.95 for MUD members.

FYI, I sell the following OE Denso A/C parts for FJ60's: compressor with clutch for $250 + a $25 core, the receiver/drier $31.33 and the expansion valve is $32.64. A complete set of o-rings is $4.57

If you have any questions, please call or e-mail
Thanks,
Rex
www.coolstreamac.com
rex@coolstreamac.com
1-888-438-9534
uv light4.webp
 
I had read on some older posts the 'idle up" vsv is linked to the compressor via a circuit; so if the compressor won't click on, I guess the idle up won't work either. Don't know if that's true, but I guess I'll have to spend the $300 buck for R-12 one way or another.
 
1998 Toyota - AC has worked perfectly always. Have been hearing a slight ticking or rattling that goes away when AC control is turned off. Local mechanic said it was the serpentine belt and replaced it. Noise still here. Then after running the AC for a trip (several hours) everything went off- lights to the AC controls, fans and air conditioner. The clutch is still turning fine. Serpentine belt still intact. I checked the 10A fuse close to steering wheel and it was blown. I turned the AC control off and replaced the fuse. I turned the AC control on and it worked for a few seconds and then it blew the fuse. Could this be something simple like a relay or inexpensive part? Because the air has never had any problems or never stopped blowing cold air, it is hard to believe it would be a compressor. Because of the cars age, I dont want to put alot of money into it. I replaced the motor last year and it has almost 200K miles. I simply want to keep it as an extra auto for short drives to store.
 
I you're blowing a fuse, you probably have a short in the electrical somewhere between the fuse, the switch and the AC Amplifier. You could disconnect the AC Amplifier, replace the fuse and the AC switch again, if it blows again, you know it's in the dash somewhere.
 
The wires on the back of the fan switch come loose alot. Pull switch and check for that, could easily cause a fuse to blow, wire just hangs loose and a lot of steel around there. Had one do that to me..wouldn't go on high, easy fix.
 
I would also advocate for dye. There are a couple things to be aware of: 1) the system has to be operational for the dye to circulate, which potentially means the loss of more refrigerant, 2) some leaks are difficult to find the dye, the hub of the compressor can hide it, or if it's in the evaporator box, it's hard to get in there to see it.

Common leak sites include the o-rings at the condenser hose connections, the o-rings at the expansion valve, hose crimps (look for oily residue), the hose and plate connections at the compressor and the compressor front seal or body o-rings.

I have an inexpensive (but bright) true UV LED dye light for $16.95 for MUD members.

FYI, I sell the following OE Denso A/C parts for FJ60's: compressor with clutch for $250 + a $25 core, the receiver/drier $31.33 and the expansion valve is $32.64. A complete set of o-rings is $4.57

If you have any questions, please call or e-mail
Thanks,
Rex
www.coolstreamac.com
rex@coolstreamac.com
1-888-438-9534

Is this an R12 or R134 system that you sell?
Can you tell me the wavelength on that UV light? I get scorpions in the house and yard and to see them at night you need a specific wavelength. If I can get a light and make it multipurpose I'm all over it. Thanks.
 
Is this an R12 or R134 system that you sell?
Can you tell me the wavelength on that UV light? I get scorpions in the house and yard and to see them at night you need a specific wavelength. If I can get a light and make it multipurpose I'm all over it. Thanks.


The Denso compressors come with ND6 oil, which is for R12. You can use this compressor with R134a, you would just need to drain the ND6 out and put in ND8, which is PAG46.

I don't know the specific wavelength of this light, but I've had people buy them for scorpion hunting and the local trauma center bought a bunch so they could check the cleanliness of their operating rooms.

Hope this helps,
Rex
 
As far as leaks in the AC. Had mine converted to R134 this spring. The shop that did it said they pulled a vacuum on it, and it leaked down in a few hours. They changed out the valves to the 134 valves. Pulled another vacuum and it held it. So it must have been leaking at one of the valves. Really cools good.
 
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