AHC over ride or sensor adjust

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Joined
Aug 11, 2015
Threads
8
Messages
286
Location
Wilmington, NC
I ordered slees AHC over ride and then yesterday tinkered with my ride height sensors to get the lift that way. I did the max I could go in the front and not quite max in the rear to level it out a bit. Now because I'm maxed in the front if I put it in high mode it drops back down to normal. I expected this but now I'm thinking why did I buy the over ride. I guess it's a one or the other thing. Or is there a reason you would do both.

Here's how it sits now. I'm literally at the tire shop now having my tires mounted so forgive the small rubbers.
 
I didn't see the point of the SLEE override kit. It just keeps the ride height stuck in the highest setting. The sensor adjustment lift puts the ride height in the H mode BUT reads as the N mode on the dash which means it can actually go another 2" higher. That 4" lift height it almost useless on the trail and sketchy on pavement but for simple added approach angle for a couple feet of forward movement, then it's nice to have those 2 extra inches. It's also nice to have those 2 extra inches when crawling around underneath doing work. At first I had a hard time getting to the "H" setting after the sensor adjustment lift. I am pretty sure I was bottoming out the front shocks. I added the Japan4x4 shock spacers and can now go into the "H" mode WITH the sensor lift without any issue. You would NOT want to get the SLEE override with the sensor adjust and then try to drive around in the "H" setting. That would be a terribly stiff and unstable ride. Would be even worse on the trail.
 
the reason to do the slee is, if you want, you CAN return easily to factory height for a long highway drive for better comfort/handling/MPG. with tricked sensors, while you have the ability to drop into low it will return to N once you get above 17mph.

Ben makes some good points as well about getting a quick couple inches for approach or to get under the truck.
 
I didn't see the point of the SLEE override kit. It just keeps the ride height stuck in the highest setting. The sensor adjustment lift puts the ride height in the H mode BUT reads as the N mode on the dash which means it can actually go another 2" higher. That 4" lift height it almost useless on the trail and sketchy on pavement but for simple added approach angle for a couple feet of forward movement, then it's nice to have those 2 extra inches. It's also nice to have those 2 extra inches when crawling around underneath doing work. At first I had a hard time getting to the "H" setting after the sensor adjustment lift. I am pretty sure I was bottoming out the front shocks. I added the Japan4x4 shock spacers and can now go into the "H" mode WITH the sensor lift without any issue. You would NOT want to get the SLEE override with the sensor adjust and then try to drive around in the "H" setting. That would be a terribly stiff and unstable ride. Would be even worse on the trail.
I found another thread that you had posted in for the vendor that sells the shock spacers. Any idea if he still sells them? I'm about to take the front wheels off now and beat down my pinch seam. Fronts are hitting there. I won't be able to get an alignment until Friday. Which stinks. I want to drive it but would rather park it until I get the alignment. I also need to adjust my AHC pressures.
 
I found another thread that you had posted in for the vendor that sells the shock spacers. Any idea if he still sells them? I'm about to take the front wheels off now and beat down my pinch seam. Fronts are hitting there. I won't be able to get an alignment until Friday. Which stinks. I want to drive it but would rather park it until I get the alignment. I also need to adjust my AHC pressures.
I'm not sure if you can still get them. The old thread has the contact info of the guy I purchased them from. I know they did a group buy a while back.
 
They are, just got a set from Dave about 6 weeks ago.
Good deal.

I'm not sure if you can still get them. The old thread has the contact info of the guy I purchased them from. I know they did a group buy a while back.

In the other thread I believe you mention these being a pita to install, what's all got to be done to install them. You or anyone else here that's installed them have a pic of the spacer installed would you?
 
Good deal.



In the other thread I believe you mention these being a pita to install, what's all got to be done to install them. You or anyone else here that's installed them have a pic of the spacer installed would you?
There wasn't a ton of steps involved in the install. It's just that you can't compress hydraulic shocks with your muscles unless your totally roided out. I had to remove the shocks then install the spacers. Then raise the vehicle slowly until the spacers line up with the bottom of the shock. For the rear you have to disconnect the sway bar to get enough flex to pull that off. The rear is rather easy. The front can't droop enough to line up the spacer with the shock. You have to remove the upper ball joint to droop it down enough to line it all up. I didn't do that at first thinking I could muscle the shock into place. if I would have just disconnected the ball joint right from the start, I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort.
 
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There wasn't a ton of steps involved in the install. It's just that you can't compress hydraulic shocks with your muscles unless your totally roided out. I had to remove the shocks then install the spacers. Then raise the vehicle slowly until the spacers line up with the bottom of the shock. For the rear you have to disconnect the sway bar to get enough flex to pull that off. The rear is rather easy. The front can't droop enough to line up the spacer with the shock. You have to remove the upper ball joint to droop it down enough to line it all up. I didn't do that at first thinking I could muscle the shock into place. if I would have just disconnected the ball joint right from the start, I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort.

And what were your thoughts as far as ride quality in before and after the shock spacers?
 
And what were your thoughts as far as ride quality in before and after the shock spacers?
I was bottoming out the front shocks without the spacers. I would get this bad clunk from the front end going over stuff on the trail and even large speed bumps in parking lots. Once the spacers went on, the front end clunk went away. The rear felt no different but I at least still have the full range of stock travel again for the rear.
 
I was bottoming out the front shocks without the spacers. I would get this bad clunk from the front end going over stuff on the trail and even large speed bumps in parking lots. Once the spacers went on, the front end clunk went away. The rear felt no different but I at least still have the full range of stock travel again for the rear.
I'm trying decide whether I need the spacer or not. I haven't heard any clunk yet. Need to do a bit more wheeling to see if I get any clunking. So are the spacers for the front only or all 4?
 
I'm trying decide whether I need the spacer or not. I haven't heard any clunk yet. Need to do a bit more wheeling to see if I get any clunking. So are the spacers for the front only or all 4?
Spacers are for all 4 corners. I'm not really sure why my shocks were bottoming out and others didn't have the issue. I just know that after the install, the bad clunk went away. It wasn't a common clunk. It only happened on hard drops off a ledge or tall speed bump.
 
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The spacers are for all 4 corners. I'm not really sure why my rig was bottoming out the shocks and why others don't have the issue. I just know that the clunking issue went away when I added the spacers.
 
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