AHC Bleeder Valve Broke

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K

Kigiin

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I have been planning on bleeding the AHC fluid on my rust bucket for over two months, spraying the valves with PB blaster weekly over the last 8 weeks. However I just tried the accumulator valve, thought it was turning but it really wasn't and it broke off. Thankfully there was enough of the valve still in there that there isn't a leak.

I assume I will have to drill it out and replace the valve. Obviously I didn't try the four globes as I suspect all or some will present the same problem.

Am I missed anything on the repair and what else can I try on the globe valves?
 
I have nothing to add other than I was under mine today PB Blasting the bleeders on the globes in preparation for an upcoming fluid change. It was changed 30K ago, so hoping they're not too stuck.
 
How will you prevent getting contamination into the system? Drill with the system pressurised (messy?)? Use suction (vacuum cleaner)?
Keep us posted.
 
I also broke the bleeder screw on the accumulator a few weeks ago. Thought it was turning and then...pop! and it fell right off. Boy was I pissed thinking I had just thrown away all the cash I was saving DIYing the AHC fluid change. To my surprise no fluid has leaked and all appears to be well. I plan on leaving mine as is but will be curious to read what you come up with.
 
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I'd try slow and careful drilling with a left twist drill and stop as soon as you get any fluid flow as you've (hopefully) unseated the bleeder and backing it out by hand might be achievable. An ezi out may work too, but a left twist drill could be a better option for a thin walled bleeder.
 
Any updates pegasis?
 
I think you can just ignore it. Bleed the system from the other 4 globes. Use extra fluid to flush the system more than usual (even run the suspension up and down a few times after initial bleed from the corners.) While this may not be a 100% solution, I think in practice you get to 90%+ end result at the cost of some extra AHC fluid...
 
Honestly I'm leery of turning more screws underneath for obvious reasons. I think I'm going to flush the contents of the reservoir a couple more times (will raise then lower between flushes) and call it good. I won't be able to get all the old fluid out this way but can already tell a difference in the ride after one reservoir flush and have plenty of AHC fluid leftover. Might as well use it!
 
I haven't done anything yet... re-grouping but think trying the bleed from the globes will result in one or more of the same issue. I think I may just flush the reservoir like Wagon above.
 
pegasis0066 said:
I haven't done anything yet... re-grouping but think trying the bleed from the globes will result in one or more of the same issue. I think I may just flush the reservoir like Wagon above.
Click to expand...
For what it's worth, I found the 4 corner AHC bleeder valves much easier to open than the one on the accumulator... your mileage may vary.
 
All 4 of my globe valves work fine. My Accumulator (cylinder) valve broke as well. Mine is also not leaking any fluid.

If I ever try to repair it, I will weld a small nut onto the remaining stub, through the nut threading, cool, and then use a socket to remove the threaded stub. Afterwards, I will replace the bleeder valve with a new one. I have tried using extractor bits and such, with minimal success. The welded-nut method works very well for a few reasons: (1) heat helps release the stuck threading, (2) The weld is very strong, (3 The weld should seal the bleeder, so that fluid will only leak when it is completely extracted. I have used this method for many non-bleeder bolts that have broken around the bottom of vehicles. One complication, will be the fluid leaking once the bleeder valve is out...I haven't tackled this yet, since the accumulator should be mostly clean after bleeding the 4 globes, and replacing the reservoir fluid: It's not a top priority. It's somewhere near the bottom of my to do list.
 
I guess there's not enough of a stub to grab and twist with even a needlenose pliers? I don't think it (normally) takes a lot of torque to twist those bleeders - so if theres anything to grab onto I'd expect you could twist it out? I mean even a couple mm worth of a stub could be enough to grab and twist no?

Also - about the fluid leaking once the bleeder valve is out, it only leaks so much, just catch it in a pan or possibly stuff tubing into the bleeder hole to direct it more strategically...
 
agaisin said:
I guess there's not enough of a stub to grab and twist with even a needlenose pliers? I don't think it (normally) takes a lot of torque to twist those bleeders - so if theres anything to grab onto I'd expect you could twist it out? I mean even a couple mm worth of a stub could be enough to grab and twist no?

Also - about the fluid leaking once the bleeder valve is out, it only leaks so much, just catch it in a pan or possibly stuff tubing into the bleeder hole to direct it more strategically...
Click to expand...


All good ideas. In my case, it broke flush with the accumulator, so there really isn't much to grab on to. Another option would be to drill two very small holes and use a bit like the one pictured here to extract the threaded stub of the bleeder:
1002787yw2.webp


I've got a welder handy, so I will probably take the approach I recommended in my previous post...you know, if I ever get around to it.
 
For what's it's worth.. I only bled approx 3/4 cup of fluid from my accumulator before clean fluid came through.

The majority of fluid is removed / flushed through the globes (like 90+% worth).

Cycling the system a handfull of times in addition to driving should move clean fluid throughout.

GL
 
MuscleWagon said:
.... I think I'm going to flush the contents of the reservoir a couple more times (will raise then lower between flushes) and call it good. I won't be able to get all the old fluid out this way but can already tell a difference in the ride after one reservoir flush and have plenty of AHC fluid leftover. Might as well use it!
Click to expand...
You will not get any of the contaminated fluid out this way. There is no circulation in this system, the fluid moves just back and forth. The really bad fluid is down there, between the shocks and the actuators. It's the fluid passing through the actuator that needs to be clean/pure/renewed, and you will not be able to move that fluid up to the reservoir. Come on, brake another bleeder. Use a hexagon socket with a T-handle to brake it loose, in order to get a strictly circular movement.
 
Meh, I DIY to save money and dodged a bullet not having to replace the actuator. Not tempting fate again by bleeding the globes. I lowered the truck, emptied the reservoir again, refilled with new fluid, and am done for the next 50k.
 
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