Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)

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More about the rig, have to go to bed but:
guy who I bought it from owns a shop, had a mechanic who new 60s, great dude, worked on it for 2 weeks for me, very fair and genuine (will upload photo of invoices)
Most things are OEM
New battery
Engine temp gauge freeZing it looks like
33 inch mud tires
Rough country suspension (shakes a good amount at 65mph)
Oringila carb
Original engine (overhauled in 2007)

main concerns for rest of drive (in order)
Pings when fully gassing in 4th gear, sometimes only goes 45 others 65. It just doesn’t sound quite right? Maybe the c. (See Dropbox)
Various “Odd” engine noises?(see Dropbox videos)
Some Gas drilling out tailpipe once
Engine temp gauge frozen so I don’t know if it’s overheating. P.O. thought it was fine when I called him( they did coolant and oil yesterday)
cabin smells like gas! Maybe just a missing lid seal for carb?
headlights and brights seem dim hard to see at night

I’m no mechanic yet, I can swing by a shop to get carb tuned or any quick simple tweaks there you guys recommend. But no more than an hour if possible. Hopefully the verdict is keep driving and ignore the pinging but I don’t wanna hurt the engine (OE said pinging isn’t good but then I can’t go above 50)

This isn’t what you want to hear but there’s no way I’d drive a 60 for 11 hours in a single day with those problems. Shell out for a good AAA subscription and have a backup plan in case you don’t get home before work on Sunday.
 
I couldn't really hear the pinging in your video. I thought I heard exhaust. An exhaust leak will make a puttering, tapping sound when you accelerate. I would guess exhaust manifold leak.

If it's more of a faint springy type metal ping when you accelerate, it could be detonating too early. Caused by either being out of time or something not right with your egr system.

Try running high octane fuel and see if the ping clears up. If it does, retarded the timing just a bit until the ping guess away, then dive into finding the problem and then the solution.

If the high octane doesnt help, I'm guessing you have an exhaust manifold leak.
 
Car haulers may charge you about $1000-$1500. Do this if you are not comfortable. Sucks to break down in cold snowy deserted stretches. If you are path has this definitely haul it. Otherwise drive it as far as you can. Then haul it. If the engine craps out it’s about $3000 perhaps to get a replacement rebuilt. Then you ask if an LS swap maybe worth it.......It’s an adventure in the summer. It’s hell in the winter. AAA will haul 250 miles on their platinum plan which is $100. This will get you to civilization for a haul. Getting to work on Sunday is probably unrealistic. It’s a roll of the dice.
 
pinging=timing is off. De-smogged? partial de-smog ? can affect the timing curve. You may be able to turn the dizzy a bit to help out. High octane gas may help too.

Make sure the wire and connection to the temp sensor on top of the cylinder head has good connection. It's located between the carb and the valve cover and closer to the firewall..

gas smell more likely a fuel leak at the base of the carb, sight glass gasket, main jet plugs, evap canister if you have a crack or hose loose, leaking from a fuel hose, fuel pump, fuel filter..
 
(any recs? On lights)

Toyota still offers a Halogen upgrade kit for the lights on these trucks. At least they did somewhat recently although looking around today some of the vendors that normally stock the kit are showing no stock so maybe its been discontinued now. Its a good value at around $50 through any Toyota dealer. Some info on the kit here:


City Racer info on the kit:


There are also plenty of aftermarket LED kits available if you want to go that route. I believe the stock headlight arrangement is ground switched so you need some adapter plugs to reverse the polarity and run LED bulbs. City Racer has a kit for that as well:


HTH.
 
pinging=timing is off. De-smogged? partial de-smog ? can affect the timing curve. You may be able to turn the dizzy a bit to help out. High octane gas may help too.

Make sure the wire and connection to the temp sensor on top of the cylinder head has good connection. It's located between the carb and the valve cover and closer to the firewall..

gas smell more likely a fuel leak at the base of the carb, sight glass gasket, main jet plugs, evap canister if you have a crack or hose loose, leaking from a fuel hose, fuel pump, fuel filter..
Can you FaceTime with me for a minute to show me this? I wouldn’t know where to start really. It’s desmogged, timing was just adjusted yesterday. I think I’m still just gunna drive it. My number is 2083093040 if you can call that would be awesome
 
Car haulers may charge you about $1000-$1500. Do this if you are not comfortable. Sucks to break down in cold snowy deserted stretches. If you are path has this definitely haul it. Otherwise drive it as far as you can. Then haul it. If the engine craps out it’s about $3000 perhaps to get a replacement rebuilt. Then you ask if an LS swap maybe worth it.......It’s an adventure in the summer. It’s hell in the winter. AAA will haul 250 miles on their platinum plan which is $100. This will get you to civilization for a haul. Getting to work on Sunday is probably unrealistic. It’s a roll of the dice.
You think it’s that bad? What if it’s just the timing and Desmog would any of this cause a breakdown?
 
I couldn't really hear the pinging in your video. I thought I heard exhaust. An exhaust leak will make a puttering, tapping sound when you accelerate. I would guess exhaust manifold leak.

If it's more of a faint springy type metal ping when you accelerate, it could be detonating too early. Caused by either being out of time or something not right with your egr system.

Try running high octane fuel and see if the ping clears up. If it does, retarded the timing just a bit until the ping guess away, then dive into finding the problem and then the solution.

If the high octane doesnt help, I'm guessing you have an exhaust manifold leak.
I tried high octane. I don’t see anything leaking out tho? It only does it at higher speeds and 4th gear when I does the accelerator down. Could it just be running rich? Is the gas smell if it is a leak okay for now. I think there was a top seal or cap or something the PO said needed to be replaced so maybe that’s why it’s smelling? Is any of this worth not driving it? I really don’t know where to look where you’re saying, if you can facetime me even for 2 mins might change my trip.
2083093040
Thanks
Daniel
 
How many more miles do you have to go?

How far have you already driven?

If you have oil pressure and youre not overheating, and you're half way home already, I would just send it and keep going
Oil pressure gauge and temp gauge aren’t working. That’s what sucks. Engine was hot to the touch to the point of almost burning my hand. Same thing with the medal topper above the radiator, It’s hot! I called P O but he didn’t think engine was overheating and said it was hot after his test drive too. They put coolant and oil in yesterday. I have another 10 hours to go have driven five. Really on the fence here, My mind would be put at ease if someone can help me check for a leak or those quick things you were saying. I can’t do it alone I’m not good enough yet lol
 
Hard to tell for sure from the videos but didn’t sound like pinging to me. Easiest road fixes for pinging are high octane gas and or disconnect the vacuum advance lines from the distributor and clamp or plug the lines. If you do either or both of those things and still hear the noise then it’s most likely not pinging...unless the shop set the base time way too far advanced.

idle hunting isn’t a big deal for you right now but it’s most likely a sign of an intake gasket leak or leaking vacuum line.

the crackling noise with engine off is just the sound of hot metal cooling. It’s cast iron block with a cast iron head with a cast iron exhaust. It gets hot and it stores a lot of heat

Do you have nice hot air coming out of the heater vents when you are driving?
 
Hard to tell for sure from the videos but didn’t sound like pinging to me. Easiest road fixes for pinging are high octane gas and or disconnect the vacuum advance lines from the distributor and clamp or plug the lines. If you do either or both of those things and still hear the noise then it’s most likely not pinging...unless the shop set the base time way too far advanced.

idle hunting isn’t a big deal for you right now but it’s most likely a sign of an intake gasket leak or leaking vacuum line.

the crackling noise with engine off is just the sound of hot metal cooling. It’s cast iron block with a cast iron head with a cast iron exhaust. It gets hot and it stores a lot of heat

Do you have nice hot air coming out of the heater vents when you are driving?
No not hot air, luke warm air even after driving for a while.
 
I wouldn't drive a 30 year old vehicle with unknown mechanical issues, making noises, feeling hot, and no temp gauge and no oil gauge anywhere I didn't want to walk home from.

Edit for clarity: Let alone across a deadly desert where the nearest service is over 100 miles away and there are areas with bad cell service.
 
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You think it’s that bad? What if it’s just the timing and Desmog would any of this cause a breakdown?
Pinging for an extended period can kill the head gasket.
 
Pinging for an extended period can kill the head gasket.
Hmmmmm. Only pings when I accelerate (first and second video) PO said as long as I cruise around 40 and slow ball it home I’ll be fine. Obviously taking in all input. Gunna see how it feels today and drive it out. If only a shop would cut the catalytic off
 
Worst case scenario is you get stranded in the middle of nowhere in terrible weather, no cell service, and nobody will be willing to tow you for a day or two.

Second worst case scenario is that you will do serious damage to the truck and costly fixes now will turn into engine and transmission swaps.
 

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