Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Beehanger
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- buying fj62 help land cruiser
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Pull off the highway, park it and wait for a 100 series to drive by then flag him down and see if he is willing to trade.
Truck problems aside, please make sure you have supplies (food, water, warmth) with you in case of a remote breakdown. Tell someone where you’re planning to be and when and ask them to call in support if you’re more than a couple of hours late. The drive sounds like a fun adventure and odds are that the truck will make it, just don’t bet your personal safety on it.
Do you get a “woosh” when you open the gas cap after driving? If so, you might solve that and the fuel smell by swapping the lines on the charcoal canister (large can on the passenger side of the engine with two hoses going into the top).
Do you get a “woosh” when you open the gas cap after driving? If so, you might solve that and the fuel smell by swapping the lines on the charcoal canister (large can on the passenger side of the engine with two hoses going into the top).
We FaceTimed about 30 minutes ago. He has some coolant in the overflow container but I suggested he pkck up a gallon of 50/50 coolant ready to go and top off the overflow. He couldn’t get the rad cap off. He said he isnt getting hot heat out the vents so I’m wondering if there is a t stat issue or a bad gasket on top of t stat. Truck has all its smog equipment on it still. Pretty well stock looking in the engine bay.
wires were new as were plugs but I don’t know which plugs were used or what the condition of the cap and rotor are.
truck has 33”s on it so that’s certainly not helping a pinging on hills problem.
wires were new as were plugs but I don’t know which plugs were used or what the condition of the cap and rotor are.
truck has 33”s on it so that’s certainly not helping a pinging on hills problem.
@Beehanger does your rear heater (under the passenger seat) blow hot? If so then your coolant is likely fine and it’s your heater core that’s blocked up, which isn’t a big deal except that you’ll be chilly.
That's how I confirmed that I was getting cooling on my BJ60 that still has a temp gauge stuck all the way at hot. The radiator gets really hot.
He also says the top rad hose is hot and the bottom is cold. Could be air, could be a collapsed hose, could be t stat problem, could be flow issue.
OR the radiator is working really well and cooling all the coolant off before it leaves the rad. But it should t be cold to the touch
OR the radiator is working really well and cooling all the coolant off before it leaves the rad. But it should t be cold to the touch
g-man
SILVER Star
Hope he makes it home!
Since you said you found someone with LC experience in Vegas I figured I'd post a few things from my computer:
1. Spark plugs. Pull the plugs and see what brand they are and also check what the spark plug gap is set to.
- The gap should be .031 inches
- Brand wise I try to stick to Nippondenso or NGK.
-Nippondenso W14EXR-U
-NGK BPR4EY
2. Pinging or is it?
- I would approach this in the following steps
- After you check the plugs and the gap....initially regardless of the brand make sure the gap is set to .031" on all the plugs. If its some no name or other brand then see if you can find the Nippo or NGK brand in town and swap them out
- After the plugs check the that the base timing is set to 7 degrees when at idle, vac advance plugged, engine at temperature and idling. If its set higher than 7 degrees then dial it back to 7
- Try swapping the vacuum lines on the advance actuator on the side of the distributor (you'll want to go out and get the truck warm and then accelerate mid to hard in 4th to see if each change made any difference. If no noticeable change by swapping the vac lines then.....
- Disconnect and plug or clamp off both vac lines so you effectively disable the advancer unit. Disconnecting and blocking the lines or pinching the lines is the most surefire way to be sure the advance is disabled. Test drive the truck again.
if by doing these things nothing changes in the sound you are hearing...then either its not pinging or there is some other internal engine issue driving the problem. things like carbon building in the combustion chamber, maybe too lean of a mixture (not enough fuel), or if they resurfaced the head and took a lot of material off it might have raised the compression ratio enough to cause issues when combined with other factors.
3 Coolant, engine temp, lack of heat:
- I would get a new radiator cap and when you get your old one off try to add coolant to the radiator fill tube IF you don's see coolant up to the neck already. If it does need to be topped off be aware of how much you have to add.
- Thermostat. See if you can get a Thermostat from a local yota dealer and make sure it has the top gasket. it will look like this when you put the new one in, note the orientation because i think its possible to put it in upside down.
Welcome to your engine bay:
See @ToyotaMatt post below @ToyotaMatt ?
1. Spark plugs. Pull the plugs and see what brand they are and also check what the spark plug gap is set to.
- The gap should be .031 inches
- Brand wise I try to stick to Nippondenso or NGK.
-Nippondenso W14EXR-U
-NGK BPR4EY
2. Pinging or is it?
- I would approach this in the following steps
- After you check the plugs and the gap....initially regardless of the brand make sure the gap is set to .031" on all the plugs. If its some no name or other brand then see if you can find the Nippo or NGK brand in town and swap them out
- After the plugs check the that the base timing is set to 7 degrees when at idle, vac advance plugged, engine at temperature and idling. If its set higher than 7 degrees then dial it back to 7
- Try swapping the vacuum lines on the advance actuator on the side of the distributor (you'll want to go out and get the truck warm and then accelerate mid to hard in 4th to see if each change made any difference. If no noticeable change by swapping the vac lines then.....
- Disconnect and plug or clamp off both vac lines so you effectively disable the advancer unit. Disconnecting and blocking the lines or pinching the lines is the most surefire way to be sure the advance is disabled. Test drive the truck again.
if by doing these things nothing changes in the sound you are hearing...then either its not pinging or there is some other internal engine issue driving the problem. things like carbon building in the combustion chamber, maybe too lean of a mixture (not enough fuel), or if they resurfaced the head and took a lot of material off it might have raised the compression ratio enough to cause issues when combined with other factors.
3 Coolant, engine temp, lack of heat:
- I would get a new radiator cap and when you get your old one off try to add coolant to the radiator fill tube IF you don's see coolant up to the neck already. If it does need to be topped off be aware of how much you have to add.
- Thermostat. See if you can get a Thermostat from a local yota dealer and make sure it has the top gasket. it will look like this when you put the new one in, note the orientation because i think its possible to put it in upside down.
Welcome to your engine bay:
See @ToyotaMatt post below @ToyotaMatt ?
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no , its NOT
Toyota cheapen out o the land cruiser crowd big time here
take note 100 % of all the Toyota oem caps i offer have the ND logo stamped into the metal usually the LH side , this is a FAR superior cap actually made in japan by NipponaDenso
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Thanks for the correction. I’ll delete that photo so as not to propagate incorrect info
no seth
leave it as is 41021 is listed by Toyota as the correct cap #
this way folks get the whole story and make there judgment call for them selves
do you follow me here ?
knowlage is power ! !
- Thread starter
- #120
Thanks Seth,
Yeah quick update, day two in Vegas, was planning on being in Idaho but went with my gut and good advice and am having a guy look at it tomorrow, he’ll have a day or two to work on it but gotta be home before work Wednesday afternoon (luckily had people pull through to cover me at work). Had help from mudders on this thread over the phone, trying to pinpoint issues, we will see what the guy says tmmorrow he works out of his house, never met him but it’s a shot in the dark i heard he worked on these things a lot and is fair price wise and doesn’t have gambling issues like apparently some other mehcnsjcs in Vegas that affects how they bill people (what I’ve heard) ALTHOUGH I’m always open to plan B’s as it seemed like a yes but not a definite one, but would need someone who can work on Sunday (tomorrow) and Manafre is closed Sunday. Shops also charge a lot more especially here (spoke to a retired LC mechanic outside An autozone who introduced me to the mechanic I’m seeing tomorrow , very genuine person, following gut, got lucky to meet him) . But like I said nothing is certain so Any fj60 Vegas mudders who can help or know if a Sunday 60 mechanic against all odds I may need you!
Thanks all,
Daniel
