Advice needed: freeze/expansions plug for transfer case? (1 Viewer)

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little_joe

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I'm getting ready to drop the transfer case in the 4Runner to reseal it, and have a general question.

The transfer case housing is aluminum. It has 3 internal holes/paths for shift rods; however my configuration only uses 2 of the shift rods. I want to plug the 3rd one.

This 3rd one allows gear oil to pass through to where it can get in the actuator. My thinking is if I plug this hole, and use my new seals on the other 2 shift rods, I should mitigate any leaks for a long long while.

Kind of been casually looking for a plug. The hole accepts a 15mm plug. I am unsure what material to use in this application - steel, brass, aluminum, or ? It'll see heat, gear oil, and the back side will be dry (so corrosion is a concern). Of course, I'll do something to prevent it from coming out if I use a freeze plug; alternatively, might an expansion plug work? (and virtually eliminate it coming out and getting ground to bits; I worry about the neoprene/rubber though)

Thoughts from those smarter than I would be appreciated.
 
Unthreaded hole?

There's probably an aluminum or brass freeze plug that would fit the application. If possible, i'd investigate tapping it with NPT and a brass plug so you never have to sweat it, but not sure if there's enough meat.

15mm = 0.591" so it looks like 1/2" NPT would be the plug

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Or just RTV a freeze plug:


:beer: Ramon
 
Thank you @mtweller Not sure about tapping it, but that freeze plug may just be the answer, I guess the steel and aluminum should be ok? (Former Rover owner who became all too familiar with eletrolytic corrosion)
 
Brass or aluminum freeze plug is what I'd use. Dollars to donuts toyota used aluminum freeze (or welch) plugs.
 
Thanks @GLTHFJ60 but Toyota did not use any plug, which partially contributes to the leakage I have.

There's 2 "things" that prevent gear oil from getting into the center diff/low range electric actuator: The 2 shaft seals for which I have replacements, and this hole. Now, when I reseal the actuator, I will hopefully eliminate the leaking; however, without plugging this hole, gear oil can still work into the actuator cavity. The actuator o-ring (which I also have) should prevent any visible leaking, but still - gear oil, electronics.

I don't strictly have to plug this hole, thought it may be best to stave off future issues with this 243k mi, 17 yr old vehicle.
 
I get that. I was saying given a similar situation, toyota would have used an aluminum freeze/welch plug in an aluminum hole, steel with steel, etc.

You don't want to mix up steel plugs in aluminum bores, or vice-versa.
 

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