do your self favor and at least aim for a 3B, at least you'll have a reliable option for a turbo.
Advice for prospective BJ40 owner
- Thread starter NorfolkBJ40
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do your self favor and at least aim for a 3B, at least you'll have a reliable option for a turbo.
You should have pulled out the calculator before you say this, first it is totally impossible, i have a turbo and tried, i got to 75-80mph and it is scary.
Second, the engine will float at 4000rpm, impossible to rev higher, 4000/4.11= 973 rpm at the wheel (you have a 4 speed then the 4th gear is 1:1. 31" tires * 3.1416=97.4inch * 973 rpm =94770 in per min or 7896 feet per min or 1.49 miles per min, or 89.7 miles per hours. 100mph???? bull**** or check your speedo... with 31" tire your speedo was probably registering higher speed then what you were actually doing.
X2 My 1HZ powered FJ73 WITH 31" was hitting 140 kph and climbing but when I checked it with a GPS it was more like 125kph.
Normally I never take them over 3000 rpm except for overtaking a roadtrain
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Maybe I should have put in a disclaimer that this wasn't done using an accurate speed measuring device and was the speed indicated on the factory speedo and it was with 2 people on board, half a tank of fuel, a slight tail wind with white knuckles on a private road to see what the top speed was and don't try this at home boy and girls.
By my calculations the difference between the original 7.5LT16's and 31x10.5's is that the speedo would read 2.175% too fast. ie at an indicated factory speedo speed of 160/hr actual speed is 156.52km/hr. It still hadn't stopped accelerating albeit slowly, I backed out of it and the speedo only goes to 160.
Was it your video showing your truck accelerating from a standing start to 115km/hr? When mine is finished with the rust about a month or so I hope, I'll do a similar vid because I thought my non turbo 3B would have out accelerated your turbo easily. It will also be going on the dyno for a before and after turbo install.
My 3B seems to go a lot better than most, yes the fuel is turned up and I'm not worried to rev it hard nor drive it on the freeway and it can go "well beyond" the legal speed limit of 110km/hr until you come to a big hill of course.
Treat mean keeps them keen.
Cool, can't wait to see the dyno results, dyno competition is fun 
My turbo install must be all wrong if a non turbo 3B smokes me easily...you should talk with David*bj70
I don't reaqlly care how it compare with anyone. i'm happy that i can pull the m101 going uphill with head wind without slowing down to 80kph.
One thing i can tell is it pull alot more then before
Anyhow still i wouldn't use the truck daily...
My turbo install must be all wrong if a non turbo 3B smokes me easily...you should talk with David*bj70
I don't reaqlly care how it compare with anyone. i'm happy that i can pull the m101 going uphill with head wind without slowing down to 80kph.
One thing i can tell is it pull alot more then before
Anyhow still i wouldn't use the truck daily...
Maybe I should have put in a disclaimer that this wasn't done using an accurate speed measuring device and was the speed indicated on the factory speedo and it was with 2 people on board, half a tank of fuel, a slight tail wind with white knuckles on a private road to see what the top speed was and don't try this at home boy and girls.
By my calculations the difference between the original 7.5LT16's and 31x10.5's is that the speedo would read 2.175% too fast. ie at an indicated factory speedo speed of 160/hr actual speed is 156.52km/hr. It still hadn't stopped accelerating albeit slowly, I backed out of it and the speedo only goes to 160.
Was it your video showing your truck accelerating from a standing start to 115km/hr? When mine is finished with the rust about a month or so I hope, I'll do a similar vid because I thought my non turbo 3B would have out accelerated your turbo easily. It will also be going on the dyno for a before and after turbo install.
My 3B seems to go a lot better than most, yes the fuel is turned up and I'm not worried to rev it hard nor drive it on the freeway and it can go "well beyond" the legal speed limit of 110km/hr until you come to a big hill of course.
Treat mean keeps them keen.
"Max speed" doesn't mean the maximum you are capable of achieving in a short burst. If you hate your engine I'm sure you can drive it to 80mph, floating up near redline at 4000 rpm, with EGTs will past the melting point of your pistons. Its possible, but not sustainable.
I stand by my 55mph "practical" maximum speed, which is about 2750rpm, and 950deg F EGT on flat ground.
All of this aside, if you want to be environmentally conscious, buying an old landcruiser is not the way to do it. You might be able to fool the moccasin-wearing crowd, but if you really look at it, a BJ42 is a far worse choice than a TDI Jetta, or even just any old gas-burning Civic. Case in point(s) - cruisers are heavy, very heavy, heavier than some "large" SUVs of today, which means that your gas mileage (22 mpg) kinda sucks compared to other slow diesel vehicles. The B/3B are old-tech indirect injection engine, which means that they are far worse from an emissions standpoint than a late-80's VW diesel, and especially a modern commonrail diesel. By emissions, I'm not talking about "carbon neutrality" which your biodiesel will buy you, I'm talking about NOx. Keep in mind the crankcase breather steams right out the bottom of the truck - when you're sitting in traffic on a hot day and it wafts into the cab, even if you run biodiesel you're not going to be able to fool yourself into thinking you've just saved the planet.
Now, if you love landcruisers, and wanted to do your small part for the world to boot, then a diesel cruiser is an awesome choice. But since you're searching for "something" that can run diesel, there are a lot of better options. All diesels are NOT created equal.
I stand by my 55mph "practical" maximum speed, which is about 2750rpm, and 950deg F EGT on flat ground.
All of this aside, if you want to be environmentally conscious, buying an old landcruiser is not the way to do it. You might be able to fool the moccasin-wearing crowd, but if you really look at it, a BJ42 is a far worse choice than a TDI Jetta, or even just any old gas-burning Civic. Case in point(s) - cruisers are heavy, very heavy, heavier than some "large" SUVs of today, which means that your gas mileage (22 mpg) kinda sucks compared to other slow diesel vehicles. The B/3B are old-tech indirect injection engine, which means that they are far worse from an emissions standpoint than a late-80's VW diesel, and especially a modern commonrail diesel. By emissions, I'm not talking about "carbon neutrality" which your biodiesel will buy you, I'm talking about NOx. Keep in mind the crankcase breather steams right out the bottom of the truck - when you're sitting in traffic on a hot day and it wafts into the cab, even if you run biodiesel you're not going to be able to fool yourself into thinking you've just saved the planet.
Now, if you love landcruisers, and wanted to do your small part for the world to boot, then a diesel cruiser is an awesome choice. But since you're searching for "something" that can run diesel, there are a lot of better options. All diesels are NOT created equal.
- Thread starter
- #27
It is a RHD. So power steering is probably not a great option. I would rather put in a little extra work at the wheel and stay cool anyway.
- Thread starter
- #28
Understood. Unfortunately putting "fun", "environmentally conscience" and "diesel" all in the same set of requirements doesn't get you far in the American market. Lots of great diesels in Europe, but from what I have seen about inporting - it really sucks and there is lots of red tape you can potentially get hung up on. Thanks to all...
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Ok,
I have a 1980 BJ40 with the original B engine. I have done lots to the car over the last year including power steering. I use mine as my DD. As long as I am not putting it in the shop to do some modification it is what I run every single day all over this city during the week and the countryside on the weekends. I can't tell you how fast it goes the speedo gear is broken I think, but it keeps pace on the flats with highway traffic. I dies on steep hills if I can't get a running start at them. I this for that reason that I'm putting a 1HZ 6 cyl diesel in, tired of it dying on the upslopes. That being said there are alot of guys here doing daily commutes with the original F abd B engines and they are quite happy. I have a lead foot and need to get the lead out when I'm on a road trip so new engine is going in. That all being said I have at least two FJ40 owners who have expressed interest in doing a diesel swap using my B engine.
I agree that if you make sure that it is setup right before you begin to really run it then with regular care and feeding it should run fine. When I say set up right first get the compression test done and if the numbers are in factory spec range then new belts hoses, fluids, filters, seals and gaskets. In essence get everything done short of a re-build ( assuming that you don't need a re-build or injector cleaning) before you start to run it as your DD.
As to the engine I agree with those who say try to get a BJ40 with a 3B. Most of the post 1980 BJs have the 3B. The reason is that you can turbo these easily and that will cure your slow upslope problem. Very common mod and I know at least one guy who runs his turboed 3B between Guatemala and Canada sometimes twice a year. The only drawback is that the 3B engine is out of production so you may have to wait for parts to arrive if something breaks down on the 40. I have been told that when I move back to the states, I will be able to order all of the parts that I'll need as the order will go through Toyota's west coast parts supply chain. However I am told to plan on a two week wait on the arrival of any parts. This will then necesitate me getting a second car to commute in while the 40 is waiting on parts.
My suggestion is to find a clean, rust free BJ40 with a 3B, that is as close to stock as you can get. That will give you a clean base. If you don't want to have a second car then, do everything that you want to the engine and the car first, then drive it. Otherwise you will need a second car to use while the 40 is in the shop gettting mods done. If you get the engine setup correctly first and add any bits that it lacks like A/C, power steering, sound deadening mat and carpet for the floor, soft leaf springs and adjustable shocks while the engne work is getting done you should be set to run the rig, with regular mainatanence, for years to come.
I have a 1980 BJ40 with the original B engine. I have done lots to the car over the last year including power steering. I use mine as my DD. As long as I am not putting it in the shop to do some modification it is what I run every single day all over this city during the week and the countryside on the weekends. I can't tell you how fast it goes the speedo gear is broken I think, but it keeps pace on the flats with highway traffic. I dies on steep hills if I can't get a running start at them. I this for that reason that I'm putting a 1HZ 6 cyl diesel in, tired of it dying on the upslopes. That being said there are alot of guys here doing daily commutes with the original F abd B engines and they are quite happy. I have a lead foot and need to get the lead out when I'm on a road trip so new engine is going in. That all being said I have at least two FJ40 owners who have expressed interest in doing a diesel swap using my B engine.
I agree that if you make sure that it is setup right before you begin to really run it then with regular care and feeding it should run fine. When I say set up right first get the compression test done and if the numbers are in factory spec range then new belts hoses, fluids, filters, seals and gaskets. In essence get everything done short of a re-build ( assuming that you don't need a re-build or injector cleaning) before you start to run it as your DD.
As to the engine I agree with those who say try to get a BJ40 with a 3B. Most of the post 1980 BJs have the 3B. The reason is that you can turbo these easily and that will cure your slow upslope problem. Very common mod and I know at least one guy who runs his turboed 3B between Guatemala and Canada sometimes twice a year. The only drawback is that the 3B engine is out of production so you may have to wait for parts to arrive if something breaks down on the 40. I have been told that when I move back to the states, I will be able to order all of the parts that I'll need as the order will go through Toyota's west coast parts supply chain. However I am told to plan on a two week wait on the arrival of any parts. This will then necesitate me getting a second car to commute in while the 40 is waiting on parts.
My suggestion is to find a clean, rust free BJ40 with a 3B, that is as close to stock as you can get. That will give you a clean base. If you don't want to have a second car then, do everything that you want to the engine and the car first, then drive it. Otherwise you will need a second car to use while the 40 is in the shop gettting mods done. If you get the engine setup correctly first and add any bits that it lacks like A/C, power steering, sound deadening mat and carpet for the floor, soft leaf springs and adjustable shocks while the engne work is getting done you should be set to run the rig, with regular mainatanence, for years to come.
I haven't seen a japanese vehicle yet with an accurate speedo (including the two I own).
Take a GPS for a drive, you'll likely be very surprised.
Only 5% out is good, 10% out is fairly common and some new cars have been pegged at 14% out.
Makes your car feel smoother, quieter and get far better fuel economy when you think you're doing 100km/h and actually doing 90.
