Adjustable Rear proportioning valve

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Eric Winkworth

Eric Winkworth

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I have been thinking about changing out my factory toyota rear load sensing propotioning valve for a knob style that I can adjust to conditions, loads etc...

The one on my truck looks to be in petrified condition and I question it's ability to do the intended job anymore...

Has anyone done this on their truck? I see you can buy electric ones which maybe something to think about, would be neat to be able to adjust it from in the truck, but not really nessesary...

Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers
 
I've used manually adjustable ones on the past to very good effect. I haven't gone looking for then in years, so I have not seen electrically adjustable ones.

The stock one sort of works ok until it doesn't any more.

~John
 
I run a manual adjustable type that I bought through CEP Automotive (divisiion of Bumper to Bumper) in my 1979 Ford F250 and I can say it works great. In the summer when I load my ATV in the box and haul my trailer, I crank it to the max and it makes a huge difference. In the winter I dial it back on the ice and snow to keep the rear tires from locking up.

One word of note is when installing it or any time doing brake work after, make sure you open it completely to bleed the brakes or you will never get them to work properly. Ask me how I know, lol

I have also been thinking it would be a great addition to my BJ74. Let us know how it turns out for you
 
That sound perfect any chance of a link, I will do some googling and see what I can find... I need a 2 in 1 out valve for the cruiser or can I just use a T before it?

To me the most important thing is being able to open it up the ass end of a SWB 70 comes around scary quick at speed on ice! lol


Cheers
 
Just thinking you could also check with a local performance shop because a lot of car guys need to use them after doing an axle swap to compensate for different size brake systems
 
gotoy said:
Why not just remove the item??
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Don't ever remove it especially when u r going to carry heavy weight on ur cruiser. Let's say u r driving hzj75 without the brake valve with 2 tons of goods at the tray and is descending slippery mud road, if u step the brake u will lock the front wheels and u will skid :steer:.
 
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I put a Willwood Brake proportioning valve in my LJ71, removed the return brake line and plugged the 3way block so its just two way. Had to buy a combination of adaptors to make it fit but works well. Have it full open and drive down a gravel(shingle/metal) road slam your foot on the brake and see if the rears braking too much/too little etc. best thing I ever did. My factory proportioning valve was shagged, had next too zero rear brakes until I did this.

Now has a guard under it to stop rocks/mud from getting caked around it.
 
gotoy said:
Most lc2 offroaders here have them removed.
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If they lift the cruiser they need to adjust it too, or else it doesn't work properly and they will think it is useless. :wrench:
 
hzj79lee said:
If they lift the cruiser they need to adjust it too, or else it doesn't work properly and they will think it is useless. :wrench:
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50/50 brakes on any short wheel base 70 series is stupid IMO. Especially if you do any winter driving at all... Of course it's all in the driver, but if your put in a situation where hard braking is your only option the ass end being so short puts the truck into spins really really fast, I did this once the day I bought my truck... Hence my want for something adjustable, there is a big difference between barely having any rear brakes (like the majority of un adjusted drum brakes out there) or having 50/50 braking... Most NA trucks have had anti lock rear brakes for a long time due to spinning out of control...
 
Eric Winkworth said:
50/50 brakes on any short wheel base 70 series is stupid IMO. Especially if you do any winter driving at all... Of course it's all in the driver, but if your put in a situation where hard braking is your only option the ass end being so short puts the truck into spins really really fast, I did this once the day I bought my truck... Hence my want for something adjustable, there is a big difference between barely having any rear brakes (like the majority of un adjusted drum brakes out there) or having 50/50 braking... Most NA trucks have had anti lock rear brakes for a long time due to spinning out of control...
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Without the valve, front disc will lock up quicker than rear drum, we wont have 50/50 braking. In the case of some cruiser with front and rear disc they may have 50/50 braking.

When the factory valve sense load, it will exerts more braking power to the rear. It is definitely better to lock up the rear rather the front 1st, so we still can control the direction during emergency braking. This is the purpose of factory valve. For aftermarket valve I don't know how it works. Perhaps you can customize how much braking power u need front or rear wheel.

All 70 series in my country does not have ABS. I think newer 70 series in more developed country has ABS system. :cheers:
 
I know what your saying but I don't really agree especially in a short wheel base cruiser.

If you drive any anti lock brake vehicle you have to know enough to let off the brakes when you want to steer in a hard braking scenario or even around a regular corner in snow or ice. If it's dry or even just slightly wet conditions I think it would be fine to have no valve, but with winter driving you can't be picky enough about your brakes and tires IMO. You never know what other people are going to do!

I appreciate all the info tho I am going to have to get me one of those valves they are pretty reasonably priced too!
 
Eric Winkworth said:
Now that's a nice clean solution and you get rid of the return? Why is the return there in the first place?
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Its so any unused fluid thats not neaded at the rear is returned. After reading some of the comments above its seems others have drums rear so removing the valve altogether may be okay but for a Landcruiser Prado as there called here or LJ71/LZJ78 etc with discs rear, I definatly wouldnt remove the valve altogether. Once you fit an adjustable valve like the willwood one and have it wide open, drive down a gravel road and slam your foot on the brake the rear will lock up first and this you dont want! adjust until your happy with the balance. Brakes should be ideally 60-70% front 30-40% rear.
 
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