AC hose blown

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Aug 4, 2016
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Got a trouble last Sunday, AC hose blown. I had both front and rear AC on full just after start in the middle of a sunny day. Within 5mins a AC hose blown off. That's the one going over the radiator. AC was in excellent condition and very rarely I switch on rear AC. I visually inspected most of these hoses few months back and didn't find any issues (given my untrained eye may not catch important details).

Not sure whats the part number. Quick google search resulted part number 88711-60471 (Toyota 88711-60471 A/C Refrigerant Discharge Hose) according this diagram http://parts.germaintoyotaofnaples.com/images/parts/toyota/fullsize/875658D.jpg.

Is this the correct part? From where should I buy it?

Looking forward to hear from experts...


full
 
I recenty had to replace the same A/C hose and took off the hose bringing it over to an AC specialist shop. They repaced the hose within 30min reconnecting it to the original fittings. Cost me $50 but I did slip him an extra $20 to take care of it right then rather than waiting till next bus day.
 
I recenty had to replace the same A/C hose and took off the hose bringing it over to an AC specialist shop. They repaced the hose within 30min reconnecting it to the original fittings. Cost me $50 but I did slip him an extra $20 to take care of it right then rather than waiting till next bus day.

Thanks for the response. I'll try the same repair from a local shop. How about AC recharge? any suggestions?
 
Recharge is simple.

See the part here. It is $115 at Camelback toyota in AZ. Once you make the total to $150, thay'll give you free shipping. Buy some oil filters/Fuel filter/ Air filter to make it 150. I buy from Camelback and they are so good.
2006 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

It is a DIY work. Install new O-ring(s).

Then, rent an AC vacuum pump and gauge kit with hoses from any auto parts store.
First vacuum the system for 30+ minutes. Close the gauges and take a note of vacuum gauge reading. Then after 30 or so minutes later check the reading again. It should stay at the first reading. If it has moved, then somewhere is a leak (probably at either joint). I am sure, if you use correct O-rings there cannot be any leaks.

Next, while AC gauge kit is fully closed, remove the vacuum pump and attach 134A gas can to the gauge kit. Purge the line, and then start the truck, windows down, AC full and then open the freon to go into the truck. Add freon until the right weight goes into the system or the glass window on the AC condenser clears out (located in the AC line in front/below the transmission cooler).

Check this video:

I know in Houston there are lots of bugs sucked into the engine bay by the fan. Bugs will clog the AC condenser located in front of the radiator making it less efficient. Probably it didn't cool the refrigerant and the system got super hot making the pressure to go high, leading to the burst.

Trust me this is the first time I have seen such a burst.
 
Thanks a lot @nissanh and @Ed of house LX470. You guys are awesome!
I ordered the part from camelback toyota and waiting for the part to arrive. Looks like its not going to make it before the long weekend was out of stock and now in transit. A local toyota dealer said it is $178 and two weeks to get the part. Going to replace the part by myself and go to a AC shop to recharge (don't want to take any risk of releasing those harmful gases to atmosphere).

My LC is not my DD and it can wait in my garage till I find time. Thanks again, will update later.
 
There is no gas (1,1,1,2-tetrafluoroethane aka" 134-A) left in your system. Also, it is not the R-12 (dichlorodifluoromethane) which reacts with O3 to make O2 and atomic Oxygen.

Make sure the AC "tech" is not messing with other components with the AC system. They typically "recommend" to do this and that.... You know what I mean.

It is vital that you clean the fins on the AC condenser located in front of the radiator.
 
Ended up getting it fixed by a local AC shop, was lazy... AC is working as before now.

Now the postmortem!
There are not much bugs stuck in the AC condenser and technician thinks fan works well. But for me AC is not cooling enough at idle (same as before the blown hose). I notice it cools well with bit of acceleration or moving.

Recently changed the drive belt, dealer did the job. But drove about 3.5k miles after that repair to blown discharge hose.

any thoughts from experts?
 

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