No, I've never proven it works. The condenser fan "looked" like it was working, it was spinning, but I now believe it's just from the suction of the radiator fan. I pulled the fan and put 12v and it didn't spin, so I replaced it and the condenser fan fuse. The new fan appears to spin too, but it's just the suction again. I don't see 12v at the fan connector, I confirmed continuity on the ground and continuity of the hot side to the relay. I haven't figured out pin 85 on the relay.
No, I've never proven it works. The condenser fan "looked" like it was working, it was spinning, but I now believe it's just from the suction of the radiator fan. I pulled the fan and put 12v and it didn't spin, so I replaced it and the condenser fan fuse. The new fan appears to spin too, but it's just the suction again. I don't see 12v at the fan connector, I confirmed continuity on the ground and continuity of the hot side to the relay. I haven't figured out pin 85 on the relay.
Does your new fan run with 12V applied at the connector terminals? You will definitely notice if it is working, there is no ambiguity.
Just for fun, check the A2 ground (ground for the fan) which should be a bundle of white/black wires bolted to the fender on the driver side behind the headlight housing. Maybe something is going on there and it's an easy thing to check off the list.
Does your new fan run with 12V applied at the connector terminals? You will definitely notice if it is working, there is no ambiguity.
Just for fun, check the A2 ground (ground for the fan) which should be a bundle of white/black wires bolted to the fender on the driver side behind the headlight housing. Maybe something is going on there and it's an easy thing to check off the list.
Yes the condenser fan is strong with 12v at connector and when I jumped pin 87 on the relay. Ground has good continuity.
AC Side: AI diagnosis: At 270k miles, what you are experiencing is almost certainly a heat-soaked A/C compressor clutch (excessive air gap) or a failing magnetic coil
Yes the condenser fan is strong with 12v at connector and when I jumped pin 87 on the relay. Ground has good continuity.
AC Side: AI diagnosis: At 270k miles, what you are experiencing is almost certainly a heat-soaked A/C compressor clutch (excessive air gap) or a failing magnetic coil
I do have to agree with the AI answer that it could the be the clutch *IF* you verify the fan is working properly while the A/C is operating (not locked out).
I do have to agree with the AI answer that it could the be the clutch *IF* you verify the fan is working properly while the A/C is operating (not locked out).
I was out of ideas troubleshooting the condenser fan, so I pulled the clutch. I removed one 1.3mm shim and reassembled. (Hot wire to condenser fan removed.) As soon as I started the AC, the condenser fan kicked off strong.
Edit: AI is telling me 1.3mm shim is unusually large, most of the kits I see have a .5mm large.
I was out of ideas troubleshooting the condenser fan, so I pulled the clutch. I removed one 1.3mm shim and reassembled. (Hot wire to condenser fan removed.) As soon as I started the AC, the condenser fan kicked off strong.
Will the compressor disengage completely now after removing the shim? Definitely replace that clutch... and at 270K miles you might go ahead and replace the compressor (includes the clutch). Buuuut that's $200 VS $600+
Will the compressor disengage completely now after removing the shim? Definitely replace that clutch... and at 270K miles you might go ahead and replace the compressor (includes the clutch). Buuuut that's $200 VS $600+
We had the exact same symptoms with our last 200 at 295k miles. Took it to our local trusted independent Toyota guy and he recommended replacing the compressor and drier. I bought both new denso from rock auto (compressor comes with new clutch if you buy aftermarket) and our mechanic installed. No issue since. Was about $600 parts from Rockauto and $800 labor.
