ABS Light Not Showing Up + Rear Locker Indicator Flashing – 1993 HDJ80 (1 Viewer)

[xna0329]

Hi everyone,
I'm troubleshooting an issue on my 1993 HDJ80 Land Cruiser (factory front and rear lockers, disc brakes, ABS equipped). The rear diff locker indicator light keep flashing, but I believe the locker itself is actually engaging. I tested it on a gravel road and felt clear signs of engagement, no smooth rolling during turns. However, I’m unsure if the binding sensation was due to the rear locker or just the center diff, because when I shift into low range, the CDL engages automatically.....

Now onto the main issue I’m hoping to get help with:

When I turn the key to the ignition position, all the dash lights come on, but the ABS and CDL lights do not. I’ve attached a picture of my dash for reference. Also, when I shift into low rang, I was told the ABS light should come on, but mine doesn’t. It stays off the entire time.

So my questions are:

1. Is the ABS light supposed to come on when turning the ignition on? (mine doesn't)
2. Should the ABS light come on in Low range to indicate the system is disabled?
3. Could this be a burned bulb? because I was able to engage the CDL and front lockers.
4. Where would be a good place to start looking to diagnose the ABS light not illuminating at all?

Any insights or similar experiences would be appreciated—thanks in advance!

 

[xna0329]

Would anyone with a similar rig mind sharing a photo of their dashboard with the ignition turned on? It would be super helpful to compare which lights are supposed to be lighting up on startup. I feel like I am missing many lights....lol

 

[NeverFinis]

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Maybe
4. Do you have an ABS actuator in the engine bay?

 

[xna0329]

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Maybe
4. Do you have an ABS actuator in the engine bay?

Yes, I do.

 

[NeverFinis]

It could be as simple as a bulb.

I would check ABS fuse and then the fusible link for that fuse. Check for a blown fuse, and power.

Make sure you have the two ABS relays next to your ABS actuator. I can't see them.

Check to see if you still have an ABS ECU and that it is plugged in.

Page BR-68 of the 1993 FSM has a nice troubleshooting flowchart.

 

[NeverFinis]

Here is the flowchart for problem 2, no ABS warning light

 

[xna0329]

Here is the flowchart for problem 2, no ABS warning light
View attachment 3891907

I am gonna go out to mess with it. I have no clue where the short pin is and how to ground terminal W. But I appreciate your help with this!!!

 

[NeverFinis]

The short pin is on the DLC 1 connector, found in the engine bay. They want you to pull it

and then ground terminal W of the ABS ECU.

I assume you need to stick a probe into W, and ground it to the body. This should turn on the ABS warning light.

 

[xna0329]

The short pin is on the DLC 1 connector, found in the engine bay. They want you to pull it

View attachment 3891925

and then ground terminal W of the ABS ECU.

View attachment 3891926

I assume you need to stick a probe into W, and ground it to the body. This should turn on the ABS warning light.

looks like something really ****ed up here, how could my rig even drivable???

 

[NeverFinis]

Cool! I see W there. Just pull the short pin, and ground W to the body! No need to back probe the ABS ECU!

That is probably dielectric grease. Nothing to worry about.

You can pull codes from the ABS ECU using that data link connector.

 

[xna0329]

Cool! I see W there. Just pull the short pin, and ground W to the body! No need to back probe the ABS ECU!

That is probably dielectric grease. Nothing to worry about.

You can pull codes from the ABS ECU using that data link connector.

Cool! I see W there. Just pull the short pin, and ground W to the body! No need to back probe the ABS ECU!

That is probably dielectric grease. Nothing to worry about.

You can pull codes from the ABS ECU using that data link connector.

Am I doing it right? It is ok if you want to laugh if I am being stupid...

 

[xna0329]

Cool! I see W there. Just pull the short pin, and ground W to the body! No need to back probe the ABS ECU!

That is probably dielectric grease. Nothing to worry about.

You can pull codes from the ABS ECU using that data link connector.

When I opened that up, I thought it was burned... I was like wtf...

 

[NeverFinis]

I think you want to connect W to E1. E1 appears to be a ground.

 

[xna0329]

I think you want to connect W to E1. E1 appears to be a ground.

View attachment 3891991

It's not doing anything… I guess that's a good thing. But how come my CDL light doesn't come on at startup, yet it lights up when I shift into low range? That's really weird!

 

[NeverFinis]

I guess that means your ABS bulb is burned out.

My center diff lock light does not come on first ignition and I don't think it is supposed to. 1996 LX450, with LS Swap, and Center Diff Lock Button.

Unlike the ABS Light, there is no transistor on the Center Diff Light in the ABS ECU. This means that the ABS ECU is only detecting if the Center Diff Light is on, not activating it.

 

[xna0329]

I

I guess that means your ABS bulb is burned out.

My center diff lock light does not come on first ignition and I don't think it is supposed to. 1996 LX450, with LS Swap, and Center Diff Lock Button.
View attachment 3892072

View attachment 3892074

Unlike the ABS Light, there is no transistor on the Center Diff Light in the ABS ECU. This means that the ABS ECU is only detecting if the Center Diff Light is on, not activating it.

It seems like I was missing check engine light too…

 

[xna0329]

I guess that means your ABS bulb is burned out.

My center diff lock light does not come on first ignition and I don't think it is supposed to. 1996 LX450, with LS Swap, and Center Diff Lock Button.
View attachment 3892072

View attachment 3892074

Unlike the ABS Light, there is no transistor on the Center Diff Light in the ABS ECU. This means that the ABS ECU is only detecting if the Center Diff Light is on, not activating it.

Man, I have a feeling the ABS and CEL lights must have been on, and someone probably pulled the bulbs so I wouldn’t notice them. When I was installing and trying to figure out an aftermarket switch, I had to remove the instrument panel cover, and I did notice that the cluster had been taken apart before.

 

[NeverFinis]

Yea, only later in life did I learn that those lights need to come on and then turn off and to check them if buying used.

A truck wouldn't pass emission in my state without the check engine light cycling during ignition, so that trick isn't commonly done in my state.

You can pull ABS codes from that DLC1. Not easy to do, but I have done it. You can also reset the ABS ECU to clear any old codes.

 

[xna0329]

Yea, only later in life did I learn that those lights need to come on and then turn off and to check them if buying used.

A truck wouldn't pass emission in my state without the check engine light cycling during ignition, so that trick isn't commonly done in my state.

You can pull ABS codes from that DLC1. Not easy to do, but I have done it. You can also reset the ABS ECU to clear any old codes.

Yeah, there are always lessons to learn in life, lol. Here’s my plan: I’ll remove the instrument cluster and install new bulbs, then take it from there. Do you happen to know if I’m missing any other lights on the dashboard?

 

[NeverFinis]

Yeah, there are always lessons to learn in life, lol. Here’s my plan: I’ll remove the instrument cluster and install new bulbs, then take it from there. Do you happen to know if I’m missing any other lights on the dashboard?

Sounds like a plan.

I am not sure what lights should be on a diesel cluster. The T.belt is an important one and you got that one.