Good luck and keep us posted. Im following as I will be doing new pads, rotors, extended slee lines, new master cylinder and rebuilding calipers in the coming weeks. I have soft pedal, dirty fluid and a constant ABS light on. Hoping to fix that.
ABS Delete? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spruce
- Start date
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Maybe I can shine some light on the brakes smoking scenario. Much like the OP I did exactly the same routine worth of massive parts cannon at my 80 when I purchased it. The only thing that I did not replace in the entire braking system was the ABS pump and the brake booster. The reason behind that is I had a service record of the booster being OEM and newly replaced at a Toyota dealer a little over a year ago, and I also was considering to ABS all together to fix my issue.
I had tried every bleeding scenario out there including two person bleeding/tying up the new LSPV rod while on the lift to ensure the valve was bypassed and wide open/vacuum bleeding with my Large Vaccula/and then I purchased an ARES pressure bleeding kit from Amazon. I will say with 100% confidence the pressure bleeder has changed the way I do brake jobs now. It is not only the easiest way to bleed brakes, but removes all bubbles from the system (Minus the ABS pump) and will tell you if a line or caliper have a restriction issue. I recommend every 80 series owner get one of these to avoid the mess that is bleeding brakes on these land cruisers.
I eventually deleted the ABS system, which I wasn't having issues with outside of a bad pedal. The reason why is when I started bleeding my brakes all the fluid was coming out clean and happy, until I ran the ABS pump and a massive amount of brown rusty fluid started coming out of each caliper and I still could not get a solid pedal. So I knew my ABS module was a safety issue.
Once I deleted the ABS module, my pedal was now solid and I could safely stop my land cruiser at speed. I adjusted my pedal rod as the travel was too much before brakes started to apply. Now I need to lube the rod from the booster to master cylinder and make sure that rod is lined up perfectly and not "hanging" on the tapered edge of the master cylinder assembly. I have great brakes, but notice occasionally that when I am driving down the highway my cruiser will begin to shake a little (noticed my rear tire on my swingout shaking a bit) and once brakes are applied the entire cruiser shakes violently. This is because the booster rod is hanging up on the tapered edge of the master cylinder and slightly engaging the brakes rather than fully releasing. If I pull up on the brake pedal with my shoe the brakes now no longer drag and everything is super happy.
Please be aware that you pedal/booster rod may be no returning correctly causing your brakes to slightly drag. Re check this and that should fix your issue.
Which ARES system did you use? I see a one liter and a 2 liter one. Also- did you need another adapter to attach the unit to the reservoir tank? Thanks in advance!
I bought the smaller unit and then purchased the Toyota adapter. But then I fell in love with the kit so I purchased the larger kit and the metal adapter set and use it on anything that requires brake work. Makes repairs super simple!
Here is the poster for that image.https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-there-a-way-to-trigger-abs-actuator-to-combat-spongy-breakes.309314/page-2#post-12937094Given all that you've replaced, if I were in your situation I'd give a few more bleeds a try before the ABS removal. If given the choice between properly functioning system with or without ABS, I'd choose ABS every time. Of course if you can't get it to work deletion could make sense.
Below is a picture about activating the abs pump with the 80 stationary. I've not followed this and have instead just locked up the brakes on gravel, rebled, and repeated over time. Even with decades of experience and familiarity with brake bleeds I didn't get the pedal feel that I wanted until many bleeds which was weird to me but pretty normal for 80s apparently.
I also bleed the lines on the ABS unit itself by cracking them open one by one while the pressure bleeder has the system under pressure. Brake fluid bonds to water readily so you can just rinse the inner fender area off thoroughly as you do this to protect the paint/etc. from the brake fluid. I typically do this as the final step as it is a way to let the pressure bleeder run out of fluid and the reservoir level drop while I watch closely. This allows me to get the fluid level in the MC reservoir to the level I want before pull the pressure bleeder off which helps reduce the mess that can happen if you pull the pressure bleeder off with a full reservoir.
When each bleeder is open and flowing under pressure I also like to give the brake pedal a few swift pushes to hopefully push any sticky bubbles out.
The following is from another forum member, forgot who so can't give credit
View attachment 3154538
- Thread starter
- #26
I've adjusted the booster pushrod back to ~0" clearance. I'm not comfortable driving it more than around my neighborhood at >30mph, but I don't feel any brake drag. Just to be sure the pistons aren't stuck, I'll manually reseat them all if I've got time after work today, but if they were stuck I feel like I'd have an overly hard pedal rather than a mushy one. FWIW, the pedal feels good until the vehicle is turned on. After that it sinks a little bit and loses almost all of its' rigidity. Is this the booster creating an overly spongy pedal? Is that even possible? Can it pull TOO heavy of a vacuum? I've only ever had a bad booster = an overly firm pedal. Is there anything I could have missed? Perhaps the replacement MC (More Information for ADVICS BMT068 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1945126&cc=1276679&pt=1836&jsn=871) is bad?
