Ability to lock up the brakes

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lonelydriver

lonelydriver

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Should we be able to lock up the brakes on our rigs?

I redid all the brakes WITH the 4 runner caliper and mastercylinder upgrade and I still can't get the brakes to lock up.

Should I be able to lay down some black rubber or should I just accept it.
 
I would think that has a lot to do with the size of your tires and the surface you're running on.

I have a '68 FJ40 with disks all around, with a 1" Toyota brake master and '83 brake booster, and I could lock up my 35" MT when on blacktop. Can't do it with my 38.5's.

Oh, and if you have a "anti-lock" system...

Jerry D.
 
Going 30, I can lock up the brakes with stock tires and brakes. Worn pads as well.

I also mean all 4 tires on dry pavement.
 
I have a rear disc conversion and can lock mine up.
 
i got lock up all 4 with both my Cruisers

the 40 has 35x14.50's SSR's and disks at all 4 corners

the 62 is all stock on 31's
 
Well, locking up is generally not a good idea for stopping fast, you want to be on the edge of lock-up. I guess if you can't achieve lock-up, you won't know how close you are to the edge.....
 
zcruiser said:
Well, locking up is generally not a good idea for stopping fast, you want to be on the edge of lock-up. I guess if you can't achieve lock-up, you won't know how close you are to the edge.....
Click to expand...

I was going to say about the same thing: locking 'em up is not necessarily a good thing. That being said, you should be able to. Find an empty parking lot or something and give it a go.
 
I tested my new brakes out the other day, got a little skidding action, just what i wanted to see. I got 4 runner calipers, 1 1/16 T-100 MC, and stock drums. I bet if i put new shoes on the back theyd lock up no problem.
 
Hey bro,
I thought Id chime in on this one, cuz I CANT lock mine up either. I have an 88 with 33's and 2.5 in lift. I was able to lock up on wet pavement...BFD!!!
Im kinda like you...Knowing that I cant....means theres something wrong.
Just did new breaks on all 4 corners...Lemme know if you find anything, and Ill do the same for you.
Someone mentioned the break booster being bad...I did a check per the manual I have, and it seemed that it was good.
Pistons moved well too.

Chicago
 
air in the lines

If the hardware is all correct, then you have air in the lines.

Frequently, when replacing major brake components like Master Cylinders, calipers, etc, bleeding and rebleeding, and then some rebleeding of the system may be required.

Though I don't have a cruizer, I encountered the same situation with my '72 Datsun 240. New hardware, thought I was all set. Ended up bleeding 4 times until I finally got the system purged. Since then, solid.

Worth considering. Also, did you check your proportioning valve?
 
I've bled the lspv but maybe some bubbles are lodged in there somwhere. The pedal actually goes all the way to the floor if i push it hard enough. Just gotta wait till all this rain clears up in socal to bleed again.

Cruise on!
 
Thanks man,
If Im going to take the time to bleed the breaks, I might just go ahead and replace the break booster as well and bleed the crap out of em. Ill let you know what happens.
I have a few things to do ahead of that right now, so it might be a week or two.

Good luck,

Chicago
 
Installed 1" MC & Calipers from a 4Runner the other week I feel like the front will lock too easily and the truck is not stopping as fast as I want it. I am running new 33 nobbies and 4" spring lift. I think I need disc in the rear to even it out. Perhaps new drum pads would do it though.
 
I'm not sure about this but afaik if you're able to lock the brakes up then the only improvement you're going to be able to make in braking will be improving the traction. As in getting a more stickier tire.
 
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