98 Ford Taurus- heater issues

[geocrasher]

I bought a '98 Ford Taurus to replace my dead suburban (sigh) and it has trouble with the heater. It works when the car is at speed but if you slow down it goes cold again. The vent selector switch is broken, but if sometimes catches and works fine. We get it to move around. The problem is that it just doesn't get hot. Coolant level is good.

BTW after I counted the cost of replacing the the transmission in my 87 suburban, I ended up with this car. Its a 98 with 109k miles and the body is beat up a bit, but it runs nice. I got it for $1500. I knew of this issue when I bought it.

PS- I am NOT a ford guy, but I bought it because my friend let me make payments.

 

[grant5127]

Taurus has a bad reputation for water pump"impeller" problems, which would explain it working at higher RPMs,( pushing more fluid)......

 

[jefferson-mo]

2 questions........................

which engine is it? 12 valve or 24 valve?

does it have EATC, meaning is the Temp selector Hot/Cold or do you dial a temperature?

 

[geocrasher]

Jefferson-mo, I'm not sure which it has. It just says 3.0 V6 on the engine. Its a Taurus SE. It has a hot/cold knob. All analog type controls.

I didn't see 'duratech' or whatever it is on the engine, and on the pass side of the front head it has a sticker that says "DK" on it. It also doesn't LOOK like a DOHC engine. If I had to guess it was a standard pushrod style engine. The valve covers don't have OHC belts in front of them. So I'd guess the 12 valve.

 

[Fuzzy Logic]

Does the coolant look brown?

 

[geocrasher]

No the coolant is normal colored. I confirmed that it does get warm at higher rpm > 1500. I am thinking water pump.

 

[grant5127]

I made the water pump comment based on area trend observation, but I'd try a back-flush on the heater core first it might have a restriction.....

 

[jefferson-mo]

yeah I talked to and engine tech and an AC tech and it leans toward low flow, which kinda makes sense, at speed the flow is enough to maintain heat but at idle the water slows or stops and the heat dissipates........which easily could be the deteriorated water pump impeller or a clogged heater core

A flush of some sort is probably a good idea, but these 3.0s of that era are notorious for sludging up the cooling system and it could uncover some leaks that are currently plugged with goop

as far as a professional flush I've read the the Valvoline lube centers flush is the better one to go with

You could always do it yourself with one of those flush kits from the parts store

or.............

just disconnect the heater core hoses and run water through it in both directions