97 FZJ80 Stereo

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Jan 18, 2013
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Location
Denver, CO
I thought I would post a couple of pictures and details to inspire some possibilities with a stereo install.

A few unique details of my installation:

* 8 Polk Audio 5 in speakers installed in all 8 factory locations w/o modification to panels (behind factory trim) -http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db501

* Kicker Hideaway subwoofer under front drivers seat - http://www.kicker.com/hideaway

* Separate switch to turn on radio w/o key for camping w/o turning on other accessories

* Subwoofer on off switch (similar to FJ cruiser)

A few not so unique:

* Alpine INES920HD headunit with Alpine KTP445A inline amplifier

* Dynamat everywhere, doors, rooftop, etc.

* All connections soldered and insulated with heat shrink

* New power supply for Headunit and Amplifier

* Foam speaker baffles on all speakers

I have a limited # of PM's here, so post questions here.

A few notes on the choice of products/installation. The powered sub and alpine amp use very little power, significantly less than other similar products. Great for camping w/o running the vehicle. I used the Polk Audio speakers because they are very sensitive, and have an RMS value that matched the amplifier RMS output exactly. Furthermore, 8 of the same speaker insures consistent sound throughout. I did however use a set of bass blockers on the dashboard speakers to develop the front sound stage. I mounted the sub under the drivers seat for 2 reasons: powered subs put out less then their giant ass brothers and you can still hear it when the cargo area is full.

I do have to say, this little sub puts out a ton of bass, especially when it is right under you. I installed Dynamat on the underside of the seat so it doesn't vibrate your butt. Not to brag, but this system sounds AWESOME. I'm more into quality of sound than volume, but this has significant volume abilities also.

I would highly recommend installing like this. I am super happy with it and have not taken up any storage space. In fact, I have gained space by removing the old subwoofer. Future plans will be to install an inverter, air compressor, air tank, and water storage, in the rear cavities.

Pictures attached. Cheers.

IMG_2105.webp


IMG_2233.webp


IMG_2236.webp
 
Looks good. I threw the same Polk 6.5s in my doors off of an old Alpine 50rmsx4 amp. I was going it would be enough but need a sub. This looks like a great option!
 
How does the sub sound?
 
I'd like to do your setup some day. Except perhaps the Polk DB651s for the front doors. It must sound great having so many of the same exact speakers all reinforcing each other. That will tend to sound like one bigger speaker. Think of the home audio speakers that have two small woofers in the same box, say 6" each, sounding more like a 12" when driven together. Good idea.
 
The sub sounds awesome. It is super punchy, clear, accurate, and surprisingly, loud to the point of having to tone it down. I would have never guessed that a small sub could put out the frequencies and shear punch that this thing does. Furthermore, we just got back from a camping trip today and had plenty of time to listen from about 35 feet away. From that distance, you could hear the full spectrum of sound.
 
Awesome job and thanks for posting this.

A few questions:
- For the 5" speakers which locations needed modifications for the holes to line up?

- Did you re-wire anything? In other words, did you simply solder your speaker to the existing speaker connections in the doors and dash?
Also - related to that - Do you have a factory amp and if so, did you bypass it?
 
The sub sounds awesome.....I would have never guessed that a small sub could put out the frequencies that this thing does....

Do you have numbers to back that up?
Like is there much output near it's rated minimum of 25Hz?

This thread got me interested in that hideaway sub so I checked for reviews but the only reviews I found where opinions, not actual technical reviews.

I have the test signals on mp3. I can e-mail them to you if you'd be interested in doing a frequency response test.
 
I do more sound mods than off road mods, granted my experience may not but much, but those hideaway subs (not bashing), while they say they may play down to below 30hz the spiders in the woofer can't handle that kind of abuse and to some people may not be enough bass

Though a lot of this is opinionated based on how much bass is too much bass. My last stereo consisted of 2 Sundown SA-12s (600w RMS each) and an AQ1200D amp (1200w RMS) with some crappy pioneer 6.5s in the doors with no amp and a crappy aftermarket head unit


Soon I'll 1 Obsidian Audio 18 on the same amp, this won't make me any louder, just lower, and I'll be building a 4th order band pass to compensate for the high end bass, then 2 Crescendo Audio 6.5 pro audio mids in each front door, and 1 in each rear door, (6 in total) and 2 Cadence tweeters, which I'm thinking of putting them the dash where the factory Toyota speakers used to be, all on a MB Quart 460.4 amp. To control all of this I'm slowly working on making a custom dash panel to house an iPad Mini :D


You guys will have less space than I do because of off-roading/over landing supplies/equipment/tools, which means you need that hideaway sub :) ha if it sounds how you like it then it is perfect.


I'm sorry if most of you are uninterested in what I have, I just don't have a bunch of off-roading mods. So I like to share when it's relevant. :)
 
Any tricks in putting these speakers behind factory trim? I have a 97 also and am about to throw down on my sound system this summer; I've read all the posts about how shallow our doors are and what it means for speaker installs, so just wondering if you had any tips to pass along with your system in a 97.

Really interested in your Kicker amp under the seat too. Love that location.
 
Pretty much all locations needed some form of modification. For the doors, I used to old speaker baskets as a mount an screwed the 5" speakers into them. I actually came up with a pretty cool front "enclosure" that is sealed and ported and fits in the door - see attached.
IMG_2031.jpg
Not the prettiest as I cover everything in dynamat but it is hidden behind the factory door panel and factory grill. The port added some great tone. The dash speaker were the easiest. They only required that the sides of the speaker basket be slightly trimmed with metal shears. The rear cargo area took a little time. There is a chamfer that has to be hammered down to accommodate the speaker magnet. I used the stock speaker mounts however. I was surprised that they fit behind the headliner. I thought for sure there would be some cutting involved.

Here is a link to more pictures. https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A45qXGF1g9wxK

I used all factory wiring; I did not re-route new speaker wires. I didn't feel the need to as this is a lower wattage setup. Per the sound, I think I'm right. I did have a factory amp in my '97. It is removed as well and the amp and sub from the cargo area. My head unit feeds into the alpine KTP445A amp mounted under the console in front of the shifter. I used all of the factory harnesses right behind the factory head unit. All 8 speakers fire w/o modification.
 
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I would be happy to run a sound test. Is there some sort of iphone app I need to use to get quantitative data of the output?

In terms of those curious about the sound quality, my other car is a 2007 Range Rover supercharged with the logic 7 system. My wife and I both agree that the LC now sounds better, is louder, and produces more bass. Although my LC is on 35's and goes off road, I'm sure the guys that never take the stickers off their hats and keep their dubs stuck to the pavement would think this sounds good too.

The Alpine head unit is awesome. You can time the speaker output and place yourself right in the sweet spot. Del rey audio in California has a programming file to customize the splash screen too - you can't customize it other wise or w/o them.

Tricks for the doors in my install were to cut the factory speaker away from the basket and use a speaker that fits inside. I forgot to mention that with the front doors and this method, on top of being able to make a small ported enclosure, you can angle the speakers up a bit for better imagining. Let me know if you have questions on this Toyote. The speakers acutally install really fast. It's the 3 layers of dynamat that will eat up your weekend.
 
Not really interested in true quantitive data, just relative low-end output.
One test track I have for subwoofer evaluation is a decsending low-frequency sweep, you'll be able to judge where the roll-off point is just by listening.

PM me your e-mail, I'd be happy to send it to you.
 
Sound became inaudible at 27hz.
 
That's good! (better than I would've guessed)
Were you able to tell at what point it began tapering off?
 
I would say in the higher 40's I started noticing the volume coming down. It was super loud at 60-70.
 
You may still need to do some adjustment to better blend the sub with the other speakers.

Run the test once more with the subwoofer OFF and see where the sound starts to drop off.
That is the frequency where you want the sub's crossover set at.

Run the test again (subwoofer ON, bass boost at 0), there should be a smooth transition accross the x-over range.

If you hear a DIP at that point, flip the phase switch and test again.

If you hear a BUMP in output, try lowering the sub's gain.

Of course, you'll never totally smooth it out, but this should help.
 
I added a couple more pictures to the photo stream link that appears earlier in this thread.
 
Perfect timing. I took off the driver side panel and installed a new window glass run this afternoon on my 96 LX. While I was there I noticed that the 17 year old speaker has cracks. I will probably shop for a pair of front door speakers, the Polks here are very interesting.

As I have no plan to do major upgrade. Do you know whether I can just pop these speakers in and connect the wire? Do you have pictures of these speakers in from doors?

In addition, will the speaker fit in he rear door too?
Thanks
 

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