'95 T100 - Notchy Transmission

[DaDr00]

2.7L, 5MT, 80k miles

I've searched these forums for answers and have tried a couple things, before I jump into the deep end with buying parts, I thought that I'd bring my issue here 1st.

So a few weeks back, I noticed that it started to get difficult to put it into any gear, but more difficult for 1st and Reverse. Then it got to the point where it was damn near impossible to get it into 1st and Reverse, and still notchy for the rest of the gears. Got on Ih8mud and looked for similar issues.

I've checked the slave cyl fluid, and it's nominal. I checked the transmission fluid and it's at the proper level, I even put in a bit more to make sure it was at the bottom of the hole. No change. I'm led to believe that either the Clutch Cylinder is going bad, or it's the shifter ring under the shifter ... or maybe after 80k on the clutch and pressure plate, it's time for a clutch job.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Ideas?

 

[SC T100]

I've checked the slave cyl fluid, and it's nominal. I checked the transmission fluid and it's at the proper level, I even put in a bit more to make sure it was at the bottom of the hole. No change. I'm led to believe that either the Clutch Cylinder is going bad, or it's the shifter ring under the shifter ... or maybe after 80k on the clutch and pressure plate, it's time for a clutch job.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Ideas?

I'm not sure what you mean in the first sentence above. Do you mean the clutch master reservoir level?

First check the clutch master cylinder fluid level and the cylinder itself on the firewall...any leakage on the firewall, either on the engine side or the cab side? Then check the slave cylinder mounted on the trans...any leakage?

You can also replace the shifter bushing and end cap...I would do this regardless...it makes a huge difference. Get the ones from Marlin Crawler. I am not sure which ones you will need since you have the 4 cylinder, but my guess is the white shifter bushing and the end ball will work. If not you might need the blue bushing.

If either the master or slave cylinders are leaking they likely need to be replaced. Does the pedal feel any different since this started occuring?

 

[DaDr00]

Sorry for the confusion. I checked the level on the CMC and it was good. I didn't see any blindingly obvious signs of leaking at either end, but I'll check it tonight and make sure I don't have any leaks. Also, there has been no change in the clutch pedal feel since it started.

I guess I'll start with the shifter bushing ... but it's not been getting sloppier.

 

[SC T100]

I guess I'll start with the shifter bushing ... but it's not been getting sloppier.

Well, it's not a bad place to start, especially if neither the master or slave ar leaking. When mine went bad it was obvious...the leaks were easily visible.

For about $25, a new shifter seat bushing and end ball may just cure it. These little parts have cured quite a few Toyota manual transmissions...usually they become hard to shift and possibly pop out of gear. Sloppiness isn't usually a symptom, but it'll feel more positive once it's installed.

 

[DaDr00]

Great. I'll get started with that.


On another note, today at lunch I found that when I was at a stop light on a slight incline, I pushed the clutch fully in and before I was able to get the shifter into 1st, pressing on the gate, I stopped rolling back. It was even strong enough to move me forward slightly. It's like the clutch isn't fully engaging.

 

[DaDr00]

Just so I know I'm getting the right parts:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-shift-lever-socket
All other common Toyota Applications, $7.49

And http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-shift-lever-ball-seats
All Other Toyota Applications (White)


Thanks for the help.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Great. I'll get started with that.


On another note, today at lunch I found that when I was at a stop light on a slight incline, I pushed the clutch fully in and before I was able to get the shifter into 1st, pressing on the gate, I stopped rolling back. It was even strong enough to move me forward slightly. It's like the clutch isn't fully engaging.

There's your problem. The clutch isn't fully disengaged when the pedal is pushed so your shifting with the transmission still under load.

Ether the pedal is out of adjustment (if it can even be adjusted), the hydro system needs bled/parts replaced, or the clutch needs replaced.

The shifter bushings will make the shift lever feel less sloppy, that is all. Still a nice thing to do but they won't solve your current problem.

 

[SC T100]

There's your problem. The clutch isn't fully disengaged when the pedal is pushed so your shifting with the transmission still under load.

Ether the pedal is out of adjustment (if it can even be adjusted), the hydro system needs bled/parts replaced, or the clutch needs replaced.

The shifter bushings will make the shift lever feel less sloppy, that is all. Still a nice thing to do but they won't solve your current problem.

Yup...the clutch isn't disengaging. Agree with everything he said. No need to replace the bushings since you diagnosed the issue, unless you want to.

 

[DaDr00]

Well, after finally getting in some garage time, I found the issue with my truck. It's a bit embarrassing since if was such a simple fix, but after 18 years, 80k miles, some daily driving with the occasional autocross, the bolt that attaches to the top of the clutch pedal bracket was more than loose. That was causing the plunger not to fully go into the clutch master cylinder and not fully engaging the clutch.

http://imgur.com/EmkAruk

That 12mm bolt drove me crazy, I just wish I'd found it sooner. I thought that I'd be a good forum user and share my results.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Glad it was an easy fix!

 

[DaDr00]

So, I'm revisiting this thread again. The same problem has came up again, but now it's even more difficult to get into gears, especially 1st and Reverse (no synchros). I checked the bracket again, but it's still just as tight as ever. CMC reservoir levels are fine, and the Slave Cylinder is moving the fork, but it just doesn't seem like it's fully engaging.

Could it be the Clutch Master Cylinder? The truck only has 90k on it. I don't want to just start throwing parts at it without a second opinion. Any advice would be helpful.

 

[SC T100]

So, I'm revisiting this thread again. The same problem has came up again, but now it's even more difficult to get into gears, especially 1st and Reverse (no synchros). I checked the bracket again, but it's still just as tight as ever. CMC reservoir levels are fine, and the Slave Cylinder is moving the fork, but it just doesn't seem like it's fully engaging.

Could it be the Clutch Master Cylinder? The truck only has 90k on it. I don't want to just start throwing parts at it without a second opinion. Any advice would be helpful.

It could be the master or slave cylinder going bad...mileage has less to do with it than age at this point. Those seals age and wear out.

Also, I would check the clutch pedal braket...make sure it's balc. If it's they grey one, it might be craked and flexing. Otherwise, you might want to get a FSM and check the clutch engagement and adjust the master cylinder rod. After that, it might be something deeper like the clutch itself.

One other thing...make sure your firewall isn't cracked or flexing...it's a problem with some T100s. There is a brace you can get from Toyota if that's the case.

 

[DaDr00]

Thanks for the reply!

Being that I've already had issues with that bracket makes me a bit suspicious that it is the problem again.

It's grey all right. But I'm not completely ruling out a CMC or slave yet either. So, from what it looks like in my picture, the bracket is spot welded into the firewall. Would this mean that it'll take major surgery to replace it to something decent? I'll inspect it more after work and check for cracks.

 

[SC T100]

I don't believe it should be spot welded to the firewall. It should just unbolt and pull out (at least my black one does). The grey ones are known to crack, which is why the part was redesigned on later models (the black bracket). It may only be a hairline crack until you press the clutch pedal, and the crack may open a bit. Also make sure the firewall isn't flexing when the pedal is pressed.

 

[DaDr00]

You can see it in the picture that I posted above just barely, but after further investigation, I found this:

DING DING DING ... here's the problem!!

I'm now wondering where I can get this black bracket. Rock Auto doesn't have anything like that listed. Any suggestions before I send my money to some knockoff from China?

 

[liljlandon]

Junkyard? Maybe a Toyota specific one?

 

[DaDr00]

I was able to find the parts from http://www.toyomotorparts.com/ for pretty cheap. But I ended up ordering from a dealer nearby that was cheaper. I made myself a list of parts, which includes the bushings to fix the squeaky clutch pedal too.

1 - 55107-34030 "Support sub-Assy"
1 - 55113-34010 "plate, clutch ped"
2 - 90386-04009 "plastic bushing"
2 - 90386-13007 "plastic bushing"
1 - 90389-04002 "plastic bushing"
1 - 90386-08002 "plastic bushing"

All these parts with shipping was about $120. Now, I just hope that I've not cracked the firewall.

 

[SC T100]

Yup...I would say that's your problem! As I was reading I was going to suggest getting the bushings, and then your next post had them. Manual T100s are hard to find in parts yards, but that's what I did when I couldn't take the sqeaking anymore...picked up a used black clutch bracket, and rebuilt it with new bushings. Much nicer feel when it was done. Hopefully your shifting woes will be done after the new bracket is installed.