85 FJ60 won't start

[Griz]

2 months ago I bought a cherry 1985 FJ60 with 118K miles, I've been driving it as much as possible and it's been running Great but the other day I pulled it out of the garage to start fabricating it's new Safari rack. Well I went back the next day WON'T start. I let it set since I thought I flooded it. Nothing!!! Has fire and gas, changed the rotor , cap , coil and fuel filter just in case Nothing!! Put #1 on timing mark and checked rotor position Perfect! When I pulled it out of the garage I reved up a little then shut off the key if that helps any. I give up PLEASE HELP !!!! The Grizz

 

[prairie wolf]

mine was the same exact, also had spark at a plug,
ended up being the coil wire, to much resistence causing
weak spark. life is good

 

[bigbertha]

fuel

Do you have fuel delivery to the carb? Have you pulled the hardline to make sure?

Is air being disrupted in a/c assy?

does she just crank and never fire? or does she fire and die?

 

[Griz]

Thanks I'll try that!!

 

[Griz]

She cranks fine but won't fire and she has fuel going to the carb. Thanks

 

[Griz]

I tryed the coil wire no luck

 

[Droopynut]

I'm not an expert but I had a problem just like that with an old ford escort, It turned out to be the ignition module. If the fj60 has one, then perhaps it needs to be replaced.

Anyone know if the fj60 has an ignition module?

 

[PAFJ]

Dead battery?? Have you tried a jump start or battery charger??

Good luck-

 

[prairie wolf]

If the battery has juice turn the key on and pull start it.
I know in this day and age with high output batteries and
starters it sounds archaic, but it has a clutch and tow hook.

With the key on, towing it to 2000 rpms in 1st gear might sort
out the flooding or weak spark without hurting anything

(A) final answer

life is good

 

[Griz]

Today I tryed something with the help of a friend, I pulled #1 plug and had my friend bump the starter and waited till it blew out my finger then I checked the timing mark NO mark. so even if I put put it on the timing mark and check the Dist. it's ok ,we believe that has jumped a tooth since the valve timing is off. Could we be correct ????

 

[NMFJ60]

I do not see from what you have stated how the valve timing can be off. The distributor is driven off the camshaft so if the cam were to jump a tooth then the distributor timing would be off the same as the cam. This is hard to imagine unless the cam and distributor do not turn with the engine since the cam is gear driven.
If Toyota has published camshaft specifications then valve timing can be easily checked. I can find no specs, but since this is a rather low performance engine I'd guess there is about 15 degrees valve overlap, intake opening about 5 degrees BTDC and exhaust closing about 10 degrees ATDC. Bottom line, although the numbers may not be exact, if the cam has jumped a tooth (or more) then the cam should be retarded meaning the intake will open ATDC and the exhaust close "way" ATDC. The intake should open about 5 - 10 degrees less BTDC than the exhaust valve closes ATDC.
So how do you check? Pull the valvecover and check valve clearances to see they are close (.2 mm intake, .35 mm exhaust). Then put number one cylinder on TDC (the line on the flywheel) between the exhaust/intake stroke. The distributor rotor should be pointing to number 6 cylinder on the cap. Both valves on number one cylinder should have no clearance. Turn the crank towards the timing mark (7 degrees BTDC), as you get somewhere around the mark the intake valve should start getting clearance. Then go the opposite direction (ATDC) and somewhere about twice as far past TDC as the timing mark is you should get clearance on the exhaust valve.
If it is anywhere close then your valve timing is most probably correct.
For what it is worth, if you have checked out the fuel then my bet is on an ignition problem.
Cheers!

 

[Griz]

Thanks , The compresstion on all of the cylinders SUCKS. My guess cam gear has slipped. I give up, taking it to the experts. THANKS everybody!!!

 

[Tinker]

Pull a plug after you've cranked a bit. If it smells of gas, that's not your problem.

You can put a timing light on it even if it doesn't start to see if it's in time. Just as NM says, if it jumped time it'll show the ignition is retarded. Don't know how many teeth the sprockets have, so can't tell you how many degrees for one tooth.

 

[eshom77]

Just fixed the camshaft timing gear on my 60. Chased the problem for nearly a year, replacing dizzy, coil, plugs, wires, rebuilding the carb, etc. trying to get the thing to make power. Obviously none of those things ended up fixing my problem. The problem got worse with time to the point at which I had around 75psi compression in all cylinders. Cam timing was severly retarded, so air was just blowing past the valves. With the fix it's an entirely different truck. I've never felt it pull even remotely as hard as it does now since the day I drove it home the first time, so this was my problem from the beginning. Oh well, got a lot of new parts on the motor in the process, hopefully it's smooth sailing for awhile now.

 

[brett76]

check the choke