84 FJ60 "Mystique"

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You know now that she is now a show queen:princess: /garage queen :princess:that she will never want to get dirty.
LOOKS GREAT EVEN FOR A 60.:grinpimp: I've also got a detailer that i send my customers to on savanah hghwy that started his own detail shop. He was the lead detailing guy at lexus of charleston when i was there.
His name is Derick Ramsey and is located immediately next to the lexus store, south of it, in a small shop that he shares with another good friend of mine who has been doing paintless dent repair for 20+ plus years.
 
That is great to know....thanks Glenn.


Naw she will go wheeling....just trying to ensure she looks this good in 10 more years and take care of her like my father and his sister did before me. :D

I do think that oil pan will be addressed right after Colorado...I hate spots on my driveway. The knuckles can wait...LOL
 
front axle aint hard just time consuming
 
we tore tristans apart on his at Docs....and though it was a long ordeal because the blind were leading the blind.....and DBenke was having fun welding.....but was not difficult for most part just messy as hell. Right Tristan?
 
lextechautomotive said:
You know now that she is now a show queen:princess: /garage queen :princess:that she will never want to get dirty.
LOOKS GREAT EVEN FOR A 60.:grinpimp: I've also got a detailer that i send my customers to on savanah hghwy that started his own detail shop. He was the lead detailing guy at lexus of charleston when i was there.
His name is Derick Ramsey and is located immediately next to the lexus store, south of it, in a small shop that he shares with another good friend of mine who has been doing paintless dent repair for 20+ plus years.
Click to expand...
Spammer
 
looks like it is the pan behind oil pan leaking...unless it is coming from up higher and flowing back. Think that is bottom of transfer case. Might have to do more than one fix or figure out what is loose up at top where it connects. :(
 
spent last two or three hours getting acquainted with chrome in the sun...after putting a oil drip matt under her. :(

Some extra fine steel wool and the headlight bezels, grill, trim along bottom of rockers looks great...not new looking by any means but it is shiny chrome again instead of chrome with oxidation and gunk built up over the last 25 years.

Not hard work but in this sun and heat the smallest of tasks become a chore....

Little by little... Drove her to get fireworks and to buy the steel wool. Pulled into the stand by Main Road and Hwy17 as there was a stand in the boat lot by road. Guy goes ape**** over the Land Cruiser and says his friend has an 87 and is named Jason Andrews or something like that. So I give him a card with name and number on back and spent $150 on fireworks. Nice young couple.....he was jonesing over the cruiser and his girlfriend/wife said...go ahead, you know you wont do any work until you go look at it. :D :D :D :D She is a keeper...LOL
 
The pan behind the oil pan is the flywheel cover on the bottom of the bellhousing. It shouldn't be leaking there if the rear main seal was replaced, however it could be leaking at the gasket under the rear main. I would remove the cover under the bellhousing, degrease everything you can reach and reinspect after driving a little. That or just go ahead and pull the pan.

Jeremy
 
yeah I had no drops anywhere before so figure it is something we touched or forgot to tighten or that was changed enough to open up a leak...it is only a couple drops when HOT...then it stops after a while.

will get on it after FJ SUMMIT likely...too much to do before.
 
Brock said:
dont forget Doc...he was sheeling a Cruiser when others were on chariots.:steer:
Click to expand...

Going from stock to 35 Belmonts statements are very correct, going from 31 and updating the driveline for more effective power Brock is correct however it is fun to watch the fur fly. Behave:cheers:

I don't think the Toyota Jeep was around when Raseses rulled but then I am getting old can't remember stuff like I once did. LMAO:beer::flipoff2:
 
any body know where the hose connects to AirConditioner and where it is suppose to exit vehicle on a FJ60? Mine must have come off or gotten clogged recently as all the ice cold water ran on my foot today when turning a corner and none is dripping under truck while running and AC is working its but off. So no AC for me until I run down that fitting and line :)
 
You should probably order you an FSM for your rig. It will make things a lot easier for you to self diagnose on your rig. There is a 1800 number to order them, I just don't have it at the moment. I am sure Glenn knows off the top of his head.

Jeremy
 
The A/C water drain should be located at the passengers feet area in the center of the foot, well can be identified by having a black rubber hose going through the firewall. They will get clogged and cause water to build up in the evap box.
You do definately have an oil pan gasket leak at the back hump area of the pan, eventhough someone has already replaced the pan gasket they did it incorrectly.
 
Got AC line worked out...there was no hose coming out of firewall so went to passenger foot area and found the hose attachment ot plastic blower housing...pulled off tube and then proceeded to catch and dump about 5-6 cups of water out onto driveway...one cup at a time with my finger plugging it in between dumpings. LOL Pulled tube through all the way and it looked intact...no clogs on inside either...it had a near 90* bend in it to fit properly it appears. I added some more hose to end to make sure it was long enough and fed it back through the firewall grommet ensuring it angled down once through and then reattached to plastic housing. Snugged a zip tie just barely where it connects to keep feet from knocking it loose. Checked in engine bay and the original hose was plenty long. IT must have been stuffed in the firewall and nobody every checked to make sure it went through...thereby crimping and stuffing the end to clog it.

Ran AC and it drips like it is suppose to now....

Going to do the oil pan gasket and hope that is just dripping and running down to center of lower flywheel housing when I get back from Colorado...will order parts now and do it upon my return.
 
Got AC line worked out...there was no hose coming out of firewall so went to passenger foot area and found the hose attachment to plastic blower housing...pulled off tube and then proceeded to catch and dump about 5-6 cups of water out onto driveway...one cup at a time with my finger plugging it in between dumping. LOL Pulled tube through all the way and it looked intact...no clogs on inside either...it had a near 90* bend in it to fit properly it appears. I added some more hose to end to make sure it was long enough and fed it back through the firewall grommet ensuring it angled down once through and then reattached to plastic housing. Snugged a zip tie just barely where it connects to keep feet from knocking it loose. Checked in engine bay and the original hose was plenty long. IT must have been stuffed in the firewall and nobody every checked to make sure it went through...thereby crimping and stuffing the end to clog it.

Ran AC and it drips like it is suppose to now....

Going to do the oil pan gasket and hope that is just dripping and running down to center of lower flywheel housing when I get back from Colorado...will order parts now and do it upon my return.
 
Tonight I upgraded my headlamps with the IPF/ARB setup. New IPF headlight housings (polycarbonate lense and special cut reflector), IPF H-4 bulbs 55/60 but have optical rating of 120/130, and a new wiring harness that is truly plug and play that allows you to maintain use of your lights switch just like OEM. Added to my build thread....took about an hour tops. Very nice kit and would say it increased the brightness and coverage of my lights easily by 3 or 4 times the oem capabilities....no s***!!!

Drove around tonight and I can see the entire road and into the woods beside road instead of looking like two MAGLIGHTS pointed at the apshalt in front of me. HIGH Beams are BRIGHT!!! and shine considerably further and brighter.

Anyone with 40, 60/62 that wants to upgrade from stock....this is the ticket...without a doubt for about $250.
 
Great pics on the build thread.....Looks really nice....

Have you snapped a pic of the new lights yet? I'd like to see them unless they look like standard lamps...

I was thinking about going with the roundeyes for an updated look....I'm not so worried about seeing anything at night.....
 
I heard nothing but good things about the ROUNDEYES kit...but just went with this one as it was IPF. The ROUNDEYES I believe are waterproof.....well if you offroaded yoru 40 but it does rain a lot here and we do have Hurricanes...LOL

I added two pics of the lights on LOW beam and HIGH beam on the build thread...are they not showing? It is very last post in the thread on page 2.

Turned off they look exactly same....standard 7" round headlamps.......just the lense is polycarbonate so nearly shatter proof...the mirror surface has special angles cut to direct light better as do the lenses for focusing of the beams....then you had a high performance H-4 bulb with a wiring harness that gives all available power to the lights to make them work at optimal levels....and THERE IS LIGHT!
 
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