tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
This is what I was referring to
80 series roof rack removal reseal best practices?
- Thread starter landcruiser3DP
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07V4H9432/?tag=ihco-20 These were posted a while back as working. I haven't tried them though.
Hex Screws with rubber washers as seals, been running it that way for years. No leaks, I always forget it’s there
- Thread starter
- #24
oh i do like these. thanks.
- Thread starter
- #25
not sure if this can be improved upon but the next step is to pull these bonded sealing washers out temporarily, find some emery paper and touch up the rust spots and put some paint down. in the meantime i reeled this temporary rubber oring and metal washer with two 4-packs of theses things. originally i put some black mastic like e6000 i had laying around in there. not sure if that could be improved upon either honestly but thought to post it.
eclecticproducts.com
E6000 – Eclectic Products
eclecticproducts.com
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- #26
more pics
If you have a sunroof and rear speakers, you can somewhat access the roof rack holes from the inside without removing the headliner. Here's what I did:
1. Rear holes. Remove rear speaker covers and speakers. You can pull back the insulation to expose the holes. The access is not direct enough to weld, but there is enough space to place a backing plate or perhaps some fiberglass. I cut a small circular piece of scrap metal, piled on some fiberglass reinforced body filler, and pushed it up against the inside of the roof to cover the hole. You can then smooth the body filler from the top side.
2. Front holes. This is a bit more difficult. Open the sunroof and fish a string from the outside of the roof rack hole then forward along the sunroof until you can grab it. Then run the string through a small hole you've drilled in a backing plate and tie a stopper knot. Apply your choice of panel adhesive, fiberglass reinforced body filler, JB Weld etc. to the backing plate. Pull the string from the outside and the backing plate will travel along the sunroof top until it cinches up to the roof - patching the hole. Smooth the body filler from the top side. Detailed CAD drawing below.
For the rear holes I was able to get a Dremel tool with a wire brush to do some surface prep. For the front holes a used an acetone-soaked rag on a long stick that I used to clean the underside of the roof the best I could. The patches have worked for a few years with no issues. I was a little concerned about thermal expansion and contraction, but it's been from the mid 20's to 120 degrees with no problems.
1. Rear holes. Remove rear speaker covers and speakers. You can pull back the insulation to expose the holes. The access is not direct enough to weld, but there is enough space to place a backing plate or perhaps some fiberglass. I cut a small circular piece of scrap metal, piled on some fiberglass reinforced body filler, and pushed it up against the inside of the roof to cover the hole. You can then smooth the body filler from the top side.
2. Front holes. This is a bit more difficult. Open the sunroof and fish a string from the outside of the roof rack hole then forward along the sunroof until you can grab it. Then run the string through a small hole you've drilled in a backing plate and tie a stopper knot. Apply your choice of panel adhesive, fiberglass reinforced body filler, JB Weld etc. to the backing plate. Pull the string from the outside and the backing plate will travel along the sunroof top until it cinches up to the roof - patching the hole. Smooth the body filler from the top side. Detailed CAD drawing below.
For the rear holes I was able to get a Dremel tool with a wire brush to do some surface prep. For the front holes a used an acetone-soaked rag on a long stick that I used to clean the underside of the roof the best I could. The patches have worked for a few years with no issues. I was a little concerned about thermal expansion and contraction, but it's been from the mid 20's to 120 degrees with no problems.
- Thread starter
- #28
wow. fantastic. thanks.
i know where to find this when i get to really tightening this thing up.
i also realize i could use a dremel on the exterior to clean that up as well even ow if i wanted to.
thanks for some solid help ccd.
Am I correct that the nut-serts need to be ground on the top side and knocked out prior to bonding the backing panel patch to the inside? I mean the nut-serts may end up rattling around on top of the headliner but the hole would still be filled.
You will want to drill out and remove the nutsert aluminum then treat/seal exposed metal in the roof.
I ended up dimpling down the holes then filling them with thickened epoxy from the top before fairing/painting. I think this approach offers some relevant benefits if you aren't wanting to do larger disassembly so that you can weld then re coat, etc.
I ended up dimpling down the holes then filling them with thickened epoxy from the top before fairing/painting. I think this approach offers some relevant benefits if you aren't wanting to do larger disassembly so that you can weld then re coat, etc.