78 Toy Box Trailer

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I found a guy who was selling an old 78 2 wheel drive Toyota Pickup. It has not been licensed since 89. The box is in Great shape. I love the old tailgates and side rails on that year. I have visions of a sweet off road trailer. I have made the deal but have not picked it up yet. Sorry no pics.

My first order of business will be getting it off the ground a bit. I was thinking of just flipping the axle and putting the springs on top and extending the shackles. And of course a bigger tire.

Do you think it will a huge problem to run that diff in reverse at hwy speeds since it will be facing backwards after I flip the axle?
 
might have some issues with the oiling...why not just burn some new spring perches on top of the housing? they only cost about 20 bux...I have a box from an 80 I want to use for similar purpose. I found a place in town (fresno) that'll sell me 2 X 6 on 5.5 hubs and an axle tube for 250. it'll weigh alot less than a full drive axle housing and diff, but it'll cost more. Someone may know better than I do about the upside down diff and oiling issues, but FWIU, the diff needs to be clocked within a certain window in order to pump the oil correctly...
 
Yeah I thought about just using a different axle. I will probably just weld in different spring perches.
 
Yeah I thought about just using a different axle. I will probably just weld in different spring perches.

safest/cheapest bet.
PS ya gunna put a one wire alt to that pinion to charge your deep cycle trailer battery while the tires spin?;)
 
Unless you plan on having some kind of storage box in front of the bed I would look at switching the bulkhead and tailgate. More of the bed is behind the wheel wells than in front. Not a problem with a cab/engine in the front but not a good idea on a trailer. You always want more weight infront of the axle. I was trying to buy just the bed off a old Stout from a junk yard. It looked like switching the two would be possible. Not sure if that the case on a 78. Might mean shorting the frame in the back and leaving more in front when you flip the bed around. Plus dealing with figuring body mounts outs. Or possible installing a tongue to the back and installing crossmember where you cut the frame at the front but then you would need to switch the shackle to the other end of the frame.
 
safest/cheapest bet.
PS ya gunna put a one wire alt to that pinion to charge your deep cycle trailer battery while the tires spin?;)

Hmmm never thought of that.

Unless you plan on having some kind of storage box in front of the bed I would look at switching the bulkhead and tailgate. More of the bed is behind the wheel wells than in front. Not a problem with a cab/engine in the front but not a good idea on a trailer. You always want more weight infront of the axle. I was trying to buy just the bed off a old Stout from a junk yard. It looked like switching the two would be possible. Not sure if that the case on a 78. Might mean shorting the frame in the back and leaving more in front when you flip the bed around. Plus dealing with figuring body mounts outs. Or possible installing a tongue to the back and installing crossmember where you cut the frame at the front but then you would need to switch the shackle to the other end of the frame.

I was going to put a tool box in front of the box to help out with with weight distribution. I thought about bobbing it though. Thanks for the ideas. It is still a work in progress.
 
My grandad's RoT for building trailers: At minimum 1/3 of the distance from the coupler to the axle should be unweighted (nothing able to be put on it) tongue. The trailer below is closer to 1/2 of that distance and it has proven stable to over 80 mph (in Baja)!

This trailer only looks like it still has a Dana 60 under it. What it really has is a tube axle with D60 outers welded into it (with about 3 gals of 90wt for bearing lube in it). The drive axles were the old, square spline type, so their shafts were cut off and now they're really only bearing caps.
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If I couldn't build a full-float axle like above I'd buy a trailer specific axle with brakes and a parking brake. Buy it with a heavier than you think you need weight rating. You may not hook up the service brakes right away, but I can't calculate how many times I wished for a parking brake on any of the 3 trailers that I normally tow.
 
I ordered my spring perches from Marlin Yesterday. I figured that was the easiest and safest route.

I planning on picking the truck up tomorrow with my Dad's Diesel and Car trailer. I am going to try and get the 20R running so maybe I can make a few bucks off of it. Then the dismantling and fab work will start.

I am looking for a cheap set of 15 inch wheels 5 lug 4.5 lug spacing. I am thinking a 33x9.50 is a good tire size. Anyways I hope to have some pics up by the end of the weekend.
 
Well it is acutally a 75 when I inspected it closer after I picked it up Saturday. I rented a uhaul trailer and pulled it with my Tacoma. Pulled pretty good actually. Heaviest thing I have towed with my Tacoma so far. Saturday night I got the sawsall warmed up and started cutting. I had it in two in about fifteen minutes. I quit for the night because it was stinking cold. Sunday afternoon I pulled a bunch of electrical stuff that I could probably use in my 40 if a switch goes or something.

Pulled the box. Four mounts on each side. A few came off without a hitch a couple broke and one had to be cut. No biggie I will get new stainless hardware. Cut off the gas tank and some other useless stuff.

I am trying to decide if I just want to wire wheel the frame and paint it or should I have it blasted. Same question for the box. I am wanting to not get too carried away on my budget but I also don't want it to rust out in two years. Sorry no pics yet. I am still a dumb phone owner.

Can anybody give me a ball park price for sand blasting a frame and shortbed box???

P.S. I had a way better time working on this project then watching that horrible excuse of a football game.
 
Update

Sorry guys for the delay. This build has not died I am just bad about taking pictures. Well I took some Yesterday to give you guys a visual.

I took everything apart a few weeks back and welded in a tongue. I had the axle, springs, frame and the bottom of the box blasted. I am super surprised how rust free the box is. There is not one spot on the floor of the box that is remotely close to rusting through. Very solid.

I sprung it over with spring mounts from Marlin. Got new bushings all around. I also ordered an add a leaf from Summit to freshen and strengthen the springs a bit. Stainless nuts and washers were purchased for the spring hangers. New longer u-bolts as well.

I got some Crager wheels from a Mud member for cheap. Tires I found on Craigslist. Wrangler MTR Old Style 33x12.50 r15 x4 80% tread $150 I thought it was a good deal.

I resealed the third and put some new outer axles seals no leaky leaky. I put everything together so I had a rolling chassi. I was running out of room in my little garage. Last night I stopped with a good coat of primer on everything. I still have a bit of welding. I need to close one end of the frame and weld the hitch on. I went with an adjustable so I can switch between a pintle hitch and standard ball hitch by removing two bolts.

The next step will be paint hopefully tonight. Wiring, bolt the box on, paint it. I think my wife is on board with buying a CVT tent to go on top of this bad boy. You can't beat 30% off.

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Where I stopped last night. Don't worry wheels are not going to be orange.

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I have this finished for a while just never threw up any pics. I am please with how it turned out and use it all the time.

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Nice!
 
Nice looking elk rack.

And trailer turned out well.
 
Well done big 62, it turned out great!

Nice score on the rack
 
Btw, did you get the 20r ever running?
 
Btw, did you get the 20r ever running?
I put power to it and tried turning it over. Got some clicking but that was it. I sold it to a guy for $100 for his old Celica.
 

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