77 FJ55 Montana to Florida

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MacDaddyRabbit said:
OK.. Time for my dumb *** question... Researched here on mud but not hitting the right keys,,
My engine continues to start n run great in place...
But.... above the spark plug second from left, and actually behind the air breather support bracket, which inquiring minds removed today for cleaning and inspection, is like a small circle w a plug in it, that barely seeps oil.. not much.... there is too much oil in the pan, as indicated on the dipstick, I just havent gotten underneath to change the oil n filter yet.. Is that supposed to be there? It's definitely not a crack, it's perfectly circular... I think the motor has been rebuilt?

If I get the oil level down to where it's suppose to be will it continue? Or is the oil to thin... No water in the oil... no oil in the water... triple checked... cleaned the seep w a rag and it's oil ... oil on the dipstick looks new....??
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I believe I found the answer...using weep hole on 2F.. on google...
No oil should be coming out... it's an indication the valve cover gasket and valve cover did not seat well w the Spark Plug tube... ? I'm installing a new seal Friday so should be good... whew...!! If that's it...

(Edit: above paragraph is incorrect diagnosis!)
 
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MacDaddyRabbit said:
I believe I found the answer...using weep hole on 2F.. on google...
No oil should be coming out... it's an indication the valve cover gasket and valve cover did not seat well w the Spark Plug tube... ? I'm installing a new seal Friday so should be good... whew...!! If that's it...
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no I did not find the answer.... called cruiserjunktion and he said it's the 'oil galley plug'.... that rang a bell on a conversation he and I had several years ago re my 82 40... so gonna drill, tap, and plug.... no hurry ... no worries...plenty of thread write-ups and SME's with some experience..
I'll get some pics up on that when doing it...
 
bobm said:
Ya pics make all the diff 🤔😉
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Learning ... making mistakes.... learning ... making mistakes... repeat... repeat...that's the good news/bad news...
the good part of the mistakes I tend to make is I go so so slow and try and double check most of my actions...
when I'm in doubt, back away, get on mud, and research, ask for guidance...
I've got to do better w pics... I realize more now there's going to be someone coming after me on all this stuff... and dozens are miles out in front of me... thank you

I thought the oil seepage, because it was behind my air filter bracket (passenger side) was a valve cover gasket... then after I removed the air filter assembly I discovered it was coming from the cylinder head itself... when I cleaned the area I finally see this little 'hole' w a plug in it.... after failing to identify the correct terms on mud, I turned to the general internet and misidentified the problem (#121). Knowing I was 50/50 at best in identifying the 'oil leak' I called SME cruiserjunktion (many thanks Deo), who instantly identified and correctly termed the issue.. Lots of 'how to' the oil galley plug. Very thankful I don't have a cracked cylinder head...
 
PabloCruise said:
Sounds like you figured it out, but do not delay.
Losing that oil galley plug is like slitting the jugular, your 2F will bleed out oil, at pressure, mas rapido.
Do the threaded plug repair.
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Wish I could take credit!! Cruiserjunktion just knows sh*&! Grins... but thanks... and thanks for the affirmation on the drill, tap, and plug..
Question, what size drill bit, tap and plug do you suggest... couple of opinions in the threads I've read..
 
MacDaddyRabbit said:
Wish I could take credit!! Cruiserjunktion just knows sh*&! Grins... but thanks... and thanks for the affirmation on the drill, tap, and plug..
Question, what size drill bit, tap and plug do you suggest... couple of opinions in the threads I've read..
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Update on the tailgate.. Skreddy sent me a tailgate innard(s) w motor, and the dash switch, and some other smalls .. tested the motor and it was working in both directions... I pop open the gear housing to check it's condition and it is beyond deteriorated... grease on it was hard as asphalt...the teeth on the plastic/nylon gear were actually rubbed/ground off... But I had purchased an extra gear from Ridgeway and after cleaning everything got it installed... Next step was to reattach the motor and gear assembly to the regulators... got that figured out looking at my other 77 pig.. ran more tests prior to assembly into the tailgate... working great.. reattached the wiring and nothing from either switch... I know nothing about electric current, but stumbled my way around and thru the process of elimination and discovered the original wire used as the ground was not giving it the contact needed... fixed that, double checked all my connections...and reinstalled the battery in the truck.....
went to the tailgate switch, and YES, I have an operable tailgate window,,, went to the dash, and YES, it works as well... so many thanks to Skreddy, and to Gary's rear window read... Really good day...
gets better...
I replaced the top radiator hose, and cranked her up for the first time in a week,,fired right up and ran great... I had installed the new clutch master and slave, and flushed w new fluid, but had not tested the tranny w the motor running... It came time to see if it would go in gear.. Heck Yeah... ! I went forward about three feet, in first, then tried reverse... and no grinding, no hesitation, no problems..... A really good day...

brakes are really in need of some attention ,,which I'm offering as the reason I only went 3-5 feet in the truck ..., I think the left rear brake cylinders are leaking as evidenced by the liquid stains coming out of the drum on the inside of the tire wall.. Cruiser outfitter package got here today w a new set for the rear... so those go on this weekend...

She's coming along... gonna snap some pics tomorrow as an update... I love getting into and under that truck...
 
Congrats on your window accomplishment. I can’t tell ya how many times I watched that glass go up and down after fixing mine. Right up until it didn’t work again….
Mine worked well after bypassing the safety switch.

Love the quick progress your making! With mine in body shop for awhile I’m having bacon withdrawals.
 
greenbeast said:
Congrats on your window accomplishment. I can’t tell ya how many times I watched that glass go up and down after fixing mine. Right up until it didn’t work again….
Mine worked well after bypassing the safety switch.

Love the quick progress your making! With mine in body shop for awhile I’m having bacon withdrawals.
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Grins on the 'going fast' and 'rolling up and down until it didn't'... It's no so fast when you're elbows deep in it and everything seems to have some form of grease or lube on it.. and I can't make myself believe the fix is forever, but right now it's all good.. gotta celebrate the small victories when they come...balances out all of the 'oh no's' and 'oh sh@*'s'.. LOL ... You gave me reason to sit back and appreciate the forward movement being made since Sophia's arrival from Montana.....

Front left door window regulator replaced (and bottom of door cleaned out, holy crap that dust is 3" deep)
Clutch master/slave replaced (clutch and tranny works)
Fuel line (filter replaced), tank (drained twice), and carb cleaned enough to crank and run well (for now, long range TBD)
Rear electrical lines repaired with matching OEM color coded wiring (rear lights. back up lights, turn signals now work)
New front turn signals from ToyotaPartsDeal installed after RnR of OEM pedestals from originals
Front seat now slides back and forth (non-use had it locked in place.. WD40 and fluid film worked wonders)
Replaced glass on tag light assemblies
Newer used tires installed (31x10.5x15's)

Driver's door and rear window fix are huge for me.. right up there with getting her to run and realizing the clutch works... very thankful for mud contributors.. I've read so many articles over and over....

today's goals are going to be clean the remaining interior door panels and various cracks and crevices to further prep for the initial wash, CLR app, rust prohibitive, fluid film app (cracks and crevices, door panel interiors, undercarriage, frame, etc,) and I'm thinking boiled linseed oil on the entire exterior. I've read wngrog's articles and guidance on treating patina and very much like what he's done.. Going to let the wash and CLR treatment determine whether I buff the paint or treat everything w BLO... The wash is in a couple of weeks... I'm going to get better pics later today and ask for guidance on the paint preservation.. I'm wanting to preserve the patina on this truck ...

Last. Midganic is still doing hinges.. he's got four of mine now... He shouted out to Scrapdaddy and Wngrog... awesome guy...
 
plans changed today.....
windshield 1.webp
windshield 2.webp
windshield 3.webp
 
a bit more
Engine compartment cleaned a bit...
new radiator hose and bypass hose w oem clamps
oem overflow tub from skreddy's 75

and the rt side pic is for anyone's opinion re how best to deal w this... plan is to wash... then CLR wash ... then rust preventative on the rusted areas... and boiled linseed oil on everything .... or should I try and buff the paint?
engine compartment.webp
rt side.webp
 
If it were mine, I would polish what actually has paint and either BLO or Penetrol just the rusty sections. I happen to like Penetrol better than BLO. They are very similar, though. Penetrol will dry to a shell-like hardness after a couple of weeks and will outlast BLO in the long run. I don't like the idea of covering over a section with BLO or Penetrol that has enough paint to actually be brought back up with polish. Paint is harder than BLO / Penetrol. Polish it and it will last a long time. Also, layering BLO / Penetrol on paint over time will build up, become uneven and yellow and require more work to keep it looking good. By contrast, BLO / Penetrol on surface rust is not a problem, because the darker rusty areas will not show the yellowing, and the thickness of the BLO / Penetrol actually levels out the grainy, rusty surface.
 
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roadstr6 said:
If it were mine, I would polish what actually has paint and either BLO or Penetrol just the rusty sections. I happen to like Penetrol better than BLO. They are very similar, though. Penetrol will dry to a shell-like hardness after a couple of weeks and will outlast BLO in the long run. I don't like the idea of covering over a section with BLO or Penetrol that has enough paint to actually be brought back up with polish. Paint is harder than BLO / Penetrol. Polish it and it will last a long time. Also, layering BLO / Penetrol on paint over time will build up, become uneven and yellow and require more work to keep it looking good. By contrast, BLO / Penetrol on surface rust is not a problem, because the darker rusty areas will not show the yellowing, and the thickness of the BLO / Penetrol actually levels out the grainy, rusty surface.
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Bucky is inspiration! Thanks
 
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