60 owner looking for glow plug help

[nieve cruiser]

I am looking for a way to manually work the glow plugs on my hj60. The current relay system is not working well and I want to bypass the relay and operate the plugs myself? As a side question in below 0 celsius 32 farenheit how long can the glow plugs be left on for optimal starting

 

[Rig of Mortis]

Do a search for "Wilson Switch", there you'll find the information you are looking for.

Best of luck.

 

[nieve cruiser]

Thanks

 

[T.Stanford]

The light on the dash goes off way before the glows actually shut off. To demonstrate, turn your ignition switch on while watching your voltmeter. When the light goes off, the voltmeter still shows a strong draw and this is because the glows are still drawing strong current. I've owned my 60 for over 10 years and I never (even in summer) try to start right when the light goes out, always approx 10 seconds after. Much smoother and virtually no smoke. Other machines and setups may vary but this works perfectly on my rig. Cheers, Tony

 

[nieve cruiser]

Thanks for the repy Tony. I have been doing the same thing with mine as well. As long as I have owned it I wait after the light has gone out to hear a click I then start the truck. Problem is I don't hear the click anymore (my ears are still working) now that I do not hear the click the truck does not like to start in the cold or will not start if it is below -10c. This was not a problem before. I am planning on going with a Wilson switch just looking for good info on how to do the job. A step by step would really help as this kind of a thing is new to me Looking forward to trying it out)

 

[roalco]

I had a similar issue with my 84 bj60 (3b). I like the superglow system, but like many others the initial high glow on mine kept getting shorter and shorter. It's either the temp sensor or the computer failing, but it still comes on for 3-4 seconds initially and the afterglow (a brilliant startup feature) is still happily going for 35-40 seconds. After reading all the wilson switch leads, I spent some time with the electrical drawings and realized that if you put a jumerper line from the supply (pin 8, black/yellow wire on the pre heating timer 28521-57020) to the feed to the main glow plug relay (pin 9, black/red wire on the same timer) with a momentary contact switch, you wind up with a fully functional superglow system with a manual override to the main glow plug relay. It works a treat, especially as you can give it full glow for however long you wish (say 7-10 seconds when it's cold) release the switch, start cranking on afterglow (lower current draw so the starter gets up to speed quicker, then kick it in momentarily for a really clean start, and it is still in afterglow to give you the extra heat.
The only thing I have done since is to disconnect the glow plug current sensor plug, a friend inadvertently shorted out the glow system and it seems to have fried the current sensor circuit which made the main relay hammer like a lucas fuel pump. disconnecting it worked wonders!
It works for me anyway!
good luck
Ross

 

[nieve cruiser]

Thanks Ross, I am going to take this project on after Christmas. I just got some NGK plugs 20.5v from 4 wheel auto as I was told they handle a manual switch set up better? Any comments on this. I figure while I am going for the wilson switch concept I might as well put new plugs in. I appreciate the detailed reply.

 

[roalco]

Glow plugs can be had in a really wide range of voltage ratings, I think the originals for my 12v bj60 were 6.5 volts (superglow voltage is about 9v at the bus after the main resistor, then 4v for afterglow) and the ones I'm using now are 7.2v densos. Got them from the local diesel shop (Fred Holmes fuel injection in Richmond BC, very good guys!!!), and they work a treat, and should last a bit longer (mind you I got 4 years out of the last set). easiest way is to put a cheap digital multi meter on the bus and watch what is really happening when you go through the start cycle, very informative!! Then check out what is happening at the timer pins. I made a bunch of notes as I went along and it really helped to keep track of what it was doing, and what i wanted it to do.... IMHO just get out the wiring diagram and work it through carefully, these beasts weren't made to need brain surgeons to work on them, just pedantic mechanics!
I also put a Start-Pilote ether injection system in years ago, works a treat in very cold starts (had a few -27 nights in whistler years ago), but you have to be careful the glow cycle has finished (afterglow too) before you engage it and crank! I know a lot of people hate the stuff, but we used it on all our Deutz and Lister lifeboat engines and it works fine (including up in the high arctic...). it's similar to what unimogs use.
Ross
84 BJ60 401000km my daily driver for the last 24 years

 

[nieve cruiser]

Thanks for the help, just finished putting a Wilson switch on my hj60. If it helps anyone here are some photos of what I did. I used the existing relays as they still work. I spliced into the super glow relay and cig lighter fuse at the fuse box. Replaced glow plugs with NGK 20.5v as in photo. In order to run the wilson switch I have to have the ignition on aux or run. Just tried it after not starting truck for four days, held Wilson for 15sec truck started no problem and was idling within 5sec at around -5c. The best start I have had in the winter with out a doubt. hope this helps. Thanks to the guys at 4 wheel auto.

 

[John Galt]

I am looking for a way to manually work the glow plugs on my hj60.

Install a push-button switch, OR simply unplug the two wire temperature sensor at the tstat housing. Depends on whether you like simple solutions or complex solutions with trendy names.

 

[splitbuseric]

Install a push-button switch, OR simply unplug the two wire temperature sensor at the tstat housing. Depends on whether you like simple solutions or complex solutions with trendy names.

This only works if your timer is still functional in my experience. I tried this method, but my timer still only allowed the initial main glow period to las 3-4 sec., not near long enough to start a diesel in -10C to -25C temps we get around here.... Luckily my afterglow function still worked well and by installing a 'trendy' wilson switch ( not complex, 1/2 hour and it's done) and leaving my timer plugged in I have the benefits of a manually-controlled initial start and an automatic afterglow to calm the truck down for the first 1/2 minute or so....

 

[kraher99]

Thanks for the thread nieve cruiser, I have parsed through pages upon pages of wilson switch info about the BJ60. I know the theory would be the same, but the practicality slightly different.

I hope it is ok to hijack your now (apparently) dormant thread, if not, I apologize.

I am 90% of the way through my Wilson Switch addition now I have hit a slight bit of hesitation. My plan was to simply splice (tee in - for lack of a better description) a push button actuated 24V to the "g" terminal (+24V) on the glow plug relay. I believe this is what you did. I spent some time hovering over the schematic, now I hesitate. Are we certain that I can "tee" the 24V wire into the power to the relay? If there are no problems, I see no reason that the superglow system would not still be 100% functional, with the added push button for extra superglow if wanted. My hesitation results from my lack of electrical knowledge, can doing this destroy the timer? I am sourcing 24V onto the pin that usually DOES the sourcing...if that makes sense.

I also have concerns of what using the button during the afterglow cycle could do. Any thoughts?

And yes, I realize that the wilson switch makes the timer a moot point anyway. Regardless, I am worried that I may fry things, including but not necessarily limited to the timer. Should I just remove the timer and afterglow relay and run pure manual?

Thanks.

 

[kraher99]

I am thinking I should just K.I.S.S. and gut the wiring and go with this:

Pretty much nothing to go wrong this way.

Anybody have any input?