500hp normally aspirated

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Does Toyota run *any* 6-cylinder engines in their racing cars or trucks? What are they using?
 
Sigmatero,
HKS in their racing supra uses a heavily modified 3s-fe with turbo etc and pushes 500hp. This is a track car, set up for time attack in Japan. Given the weight of your vehicle, which i am assuming is a Landcruiser you will need to face facts: 1) Sticking to NA with 6 cylinder Toyota engines will not get near your HP goal.
2) You need to consider either a 1UZ-fe or 2UZ-fe as the basis and be prepared to spend mega dollars to achieve your goal.
3) Examine the rules carefully of your racing group, dollar per hp you are going to be better off with a chevy or ford crate motor.
4) If its for hill climbs and mud running, give me a mega torque monster of an engine rather then outright hp.

Some thoughts for you to ponder.....
 
I'm guessing this for a Class 3 or 7100 car/truck. So, a turbo is out and so is the blower.

What did the V-6 Stewert's trophy trucks run before the Toy V8s were introduced in the mid to late 90's. That was a V6 with around 380hp????????? It's been a while.

I'll look when I get to the house tonight for the company's name and phone the worked with a lot to the toyota engines for desert folks.

-John
 
PPI Motorsports did the trophy/class 1 (whatever they were called back then) trucks for Ivan. I do believe they were approx 300 HP 3L V6's at one point. I know the power numbers weren't anything earth shattering, but still respectable.
 
Stewert did pretty well for the several years running a V6. The 3400 series may allow a better base the 3L????

I not that familiar the the yota V6s. Is there a factory 4.0L V6 in the newest 4-runners??????

I'm sure there's a company that can build you a power plant that can compete with the ford, just a matter of your resources. Even if it's a few ponies short the difference could be possible made up in chassis set-up, weight, and prep. Just a thought.

-John
 
What would you all suggest for a Toyota engine to get 450-550hp without forced induction? Needs to be 6 cylinders and 4.5L or less and also have aftermarket parts fairly available (not a real oddball engine). Can run high compression and doesn't have to be real streetable since it's for offroad racing. Gots to be a Toyota :)

Thanks folks.




4.5L I6 a STROKED 2jZ; NA not for less than oh, I'd say $100,000




Nope;p not going to happen



Tru-dat!!



The Class-7 Ranger guys are apparently getting around this hp (or more) with a 4.5L V6 Busch Ford engine. What's comparable with a Toyota engine?



You talking bout a $500,000 race motor? Factory backed?



Start with a 2JZ motor from a Supra. Super strong 6 cylinder under 4.5L.

Ryan


Strong like 1FZ cause they are basicly the same EXACT motor EXCEPT for the STROKE.

Twin cam
7 main bering kinda thing ;p

Iron block, Lumi head........................


X2. Guy brings his over to his GF's house down the street from me and I guess his is pushing over 400 (with a turbo) and will be in the vicinity of 570hp after his next round of upgrades :eek:



Yeah with forced indiction, you can run it till.............

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzYl3cF-xMU






The 1FZ 4.5L has little to no aftermarket tuning support... with that said, you could build a heck of a nice engine with one.


AFAIK, the "stroker" crank mod for the "2jZ" is the 1FZ crank.



The stroke is to long, it's made for torque and not a lot of horsepower.. the bottom end is to soft for making the high RPMs needed for making horsepower... it would be a lot cheaper and more simple to just go with a Oval or Bowtie... the Ovals weigh in about 110 pounds less than the SB Chevys..



1FZ, truck; for pulling torque off the line,

its not the bottom end thats weak its the ROTATING MASS.


A long stroke moves the mass outward will NOT tolarate high RPM's*



*Balenced & blueprinted

I drive a 7.3 that probly wont turn 2,800 I'd say it's got 700ft/lbs though :D


Bummer, I was really hoping there would be something to compete with the Ford engine.



$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$;)





maybe you need something like ..

supra1.jpg


supra2.jpg


What a DEstroked 1FZ?




Not necessarily.


Yes necessarily or, lots (tons) of $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$





There are other yota engines than the ones that they put into trucks guys. What about a supra engine??


You mean a DEstroked 1FZ?





Does Toyota run *any* 6-cylinder engines in their racing cars or trucks? What are they using?



NA? Not 2 my knowlage they run PUSHROD million $$$$$ V8's though. :rolleyes:



why NA when you can blo easily for cheap. But I wonder what a 4.5l 1fzfe could do with a better rods (available) and appropriate cam, a simple porting and 8000 rpms. already has the 7 bearing main.

mine is blown and runs great all day long:)



Because of rules, and we do know a Toyota I6 can run with a blower. :rolleyes:


Dont think cam is nessasary, just the adjustable wheels.


I would look into the old Toyota PPI trucks from the 90's....

No 450hp 4.5L engine is cheap. Might as well take a 1FZ and do it up...



LOL, In think you mean BLOW it up.



I'm guessing this for a Class 3 or 7100 car/truck. So, a turbo is out and so is the blower.

What did the V-6 Stewert's trophy trucks run before the Toy V8s were introduced in the mid to late 90's. That was a V6 with around 380hp????????? It's been a while.

I'll look when I get to the house tonight for the company's name and phone the worked with a lot to the toyota engines for desert folks.

-John


Toyota V, 6's have a helofa bottom end (unless you run it w/o oil in it;) )with that said I dont think they all had the one piece bearing thingie, get this the CAR's all had twin cam all the trucks had single, I'm thinking 3.0h here so dont get exited the V6's IMO top end is the limiting factor.
 
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by the time you had modded a normal air 1fz to get the most from it, it would closer to 5 litres.

but apparently a 1fz can make 740hp with a twin turbo or 640hp with a single turbo, but that is with head and valve work and a beefed up bottom end.

http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0950
 
What would you all suggest for a Toyota engine to get 450-550hp without forced induction? Needs to be 6 cylinders and 4.5L or less and also have aftermarket parts fairly available (not a real oddball engine). Can run high compression and doesn't have to be real streetable since it's for offroad racing. Gots to be a Toyota :)

Thanks folks.




Ok dude, go get some 15:1 cr piston$ (or have them made :D), forged aluminum con rods, couple computers, have never seen a main cap so NO COMMENT, P&P the head, Copper HG, twin knock sensors, R & D , NASA, ROUSH, 200,000 volt ignition, ahh.....Titanium head bolts and valve retainers............................



After you paid me $200,000 I'd give it the "taillight" warranty :grinpimp:








































When the taillights go outa sight, it's out of warranty. ;) hope this helps!!
 
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Dood, that Supra on the road would worry birds the same as jets do. Ya know, suckin em down that sewer drain of a turbo intake.
 
If you are serious and acknowlage the rest I'd say 380-390 is possable


1: Resurch the 2jZ vvT-i head it will require a stand alone computer.

2: the lightest FORGED ALUMINUM con rods, all rods by different manufacturs are trade off's your not going for 1million miles so............

3: knife edge the crank, this removes weight and frees up higher RPM's

4: Aluminum pistons light weight better heat disapation

5: Port & Polish the head, max porting should have lower rpm's suffering though

6: biggest baddest valves avalible, air in air out, the better more efficient the more power genorated

7: dont know comp ratio but computer will have to be...er, massaged in order to read the signal and not trouble code it and not run (at all) correctly

8: use all the above data and get the correct cam's for it, over laping the valves WILL cause it to be Off-road ONLY

9: adjustable cam wheels will let you fine tune the cam's good idea.

10: about 100hrs on the dyno (seriously, I dont know how many hours)


11: I know I left some thing out damn ADD!!



The more you deviate from bore & sroke the more your buget will shrink I say leave it go with what you got (above) REbuildable and will FINISH the race :cheers:




500! :eek::eek:ahahahahahaha!!!! :lol::lol::lol::lol: aw jeez I crack myself up,!! :lol::lol:
 
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Bummer, I was really hoping there would be something to compete with the Ford engine.


well you gotta remember that ford engine isnt much ford any more than a toyota engine would be. throw about 50k at it and you got it done, i'm sure thats what busch did. also remember that all the toyota racing engines are inducted or turbo'ed or something, that kinda HP naturally is hard to make w/o the cubes.
 
i wonder what broke on that last pull on the supra? I saw sparks fly out.
 
also remember that all the toyota racing engines are inducted or turbo'ed or something, that kinda HP naturally is hard to make w/o the cubes.

No they are not. They are pushrod, naturally aspirated motors pushing over 800 hp. But they were based off the ford block, and they are a v8. I know, because i am buddies with the guys at the TRD motor shop that makes all the motors for NASCAR and i asked them.
 
If you are serious and acknowlage the rest I'd say 380-390 is possable


1: Resurch the 2jZ vvT-i head it will require a stand alone computer.

2: the lightest FORGED ALUMINUM con rods, all rods by different manufacturs are trade off's your not going for 1million miles so............

3: knife edge the crank, this removes weight and frees up higher RPM's

4: Aluminum pistons light weight better heat disapation

5: Port & Polish the head, max porting should have lower rpm's suffering though

6: biggest baddest valves avalible, air in air out, the better more efficient the more power genorated

7: dont know comp ratio but computer will have to be...er, massaged in order to read the signal and not trouble code it and not run (at all) correctly

8: use all the above data and get the correct cam's for it, over laping the valves WILL cause it to be Off-road ONLY

9: adjustable cam wheels will let you fine tune the cam's good idea.

10: about 100hrs on the dyno (seriously, I dont know how many hours)


11: I know I left some thing out damn ADD!!



The more you deviate from bore & sroke the more your buget will shrink I say leave it go with what you got (above) REbuildable and will FINISH the race :cheers:




500! :eek::eek:ahahahahahaha!!!! :lol::lol::lol::lol: aw jeez I crack myself up,!! :lol::lol:

Aluminum rods are really not very good for long term longevity, plus they are a PITA because the grow so much you have to have tons of clearance when the engine is cold. Also, aluminum will eventually fatigue and have to be replaced. Billet steel or a plain old forging would be more than adequate.
 

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