5.7 4l60e SOA 60 driveshaft transmission pan Clearance

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5.7 4l60e SOA 60 driveshaft transmission pan Clearance Options?

I've got a late 85 60 Sprung over with a 5.7 and 4l60e to my split case I put in and went to have a front drive shaft made up and realized the cv is not going to clear the pan like the universal joint did. I posted up in the 60 section but I figured this issue would be universal to a 40-60.

My 4l60e has the rectangular pan about 2 1/2 inches deep. It looks like im about half an inch to close for the last 2-3 inches of the pan.

I've read in a couple threads that mini truck cvs are smaller but I havent found any defiantive answers on that. If this is the case do you just have the flange drilled out for the 2 5/8 flange pattern on my tcase?


If this doesn't work does anyone have a picture or a link of their pan clearanced? Or is there a pan that works?
 
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I've got a late 85 60 Sprung over with a 5.7 and 4l60e to my split case I put in and went to have a front drive shaft made up and realized the cv is not going to clear the pan like the universal joint did. I posted up in the 60 section but I figured this issue would be universal to a 40-60.

My 4l60e has the rectangular pan about 2 1/2 inches deep. It looks like im about half an inch to close for the last 2-3 inches of the pan.

I've read in a couple threads that mini truck cvs are smaller but I havent found any defiantive answers on that. If this is the case do you just have the flange drilled out for the 2 5/8 flange pattern on my tcase?




If this doesn't work does anyone have a picture or a link of their pan clearanced? Or is there a pan that works?

Im GOING to be in the same boat as you are with my 40, so Im curious to see what you come up with as Im anticipating this too.
Did you off set the motor when you installed it at all?
What clearance do you have currently.
Rustynailjustin notched his pan a bit for some clearance.
Is it the shaft hitting?

Ill be watching this!
Might wanna PM iaintscared as well. He has done a bunch of these conversions.
 
I had the same problem with my SOA-AA adapter-700r4-split tcase. The only way to get a CV to clear is to grind the transmission case and custom work the pan. this makes sealing the pan nearly impossbile.

I went with a a stock shaft with an early minitruck 40 degree universal at the transfer case side of the shaft. Jess at high angle built me the shaft and agreed that this was the best option. The only problem is that you will have to live with the vibration in 4wd. A cut and turn is imperative with this option.

I think that if you go with the 203 doubler it will elimnate this problem and allow the use of a CV. thats the route I would go if I had the room (Wont work on a stock WB 40).
 
Yea i'm honestly almost wishing I would have went with a complete chevy drivetrain from engine to axles at this point. I think just reworking the pan will allow it to clear without touching the tranny. theres a shop here in phoenix that does it I might just let them clearance it and have the cv shaft made. Do you know is the mini cv any smaller than a standard half ton unit?
 
two piece shaft will work as well...Im not such a fan of it, but...Ya gotta do what you gotta do.
 
Woody went with a two piece shaft on the Raisin. Works well for him. I think he went with a High Angle set up as well. he is running a 700R4 to a Dana 30

I run a 203 doubler and have a little clearance problems with my deep pan on my Th400. If I ran a shallow pan or a round d-shaft I would have no problems. As it is I cut part of the corner off the pan nearest the d-shaft and put in a piece at a 45 degree angle instead of the stock 90. I had to TIG it to get it to seal.
 
Has anyone every had a custom cv made? I honestly have no Idea on this so don't flame me, but wouldn't a custom built cv like they build for sand rails work?

What is the smallest cv out there? Are mini cvs smaller than 1310s? If I rework the pan I want to start with the smallest size possible. My pan is about 2 1/2 -3 inches deep, The universal joint on there fits as it is but any farther forward at that width will hit the bottom of the pan.
 
Gumby, Is there a link to his build? I never considered a 2 peice but I'm open to whatever will get the job done without vibes. I have the shallow pan as it is and its close but I know the valv body on the 4l60e is not to far away from the wall. I could be mistaken but i don't think I have much more than half an inch.
 
I found the link to Raisin. That looks like it could work. Run a 2 piece out of the way and then down. My problem is I only have 32 1/2 inches but I think I could still make that work.
 
Ok after taken some measures what do you guys think about this.

First does anyone know what Proffitts did on there 60 they have shown under their restorations? I saw its a 350 auto and spring over. I did not do a cut and turn on this axle as I was originally going to run a 2 cv high angle shaft and never have to worry about vibrations, but.. this happened. I think I may get a little more creative. I measured my driveline angles as it sits. I have 9 degrees at the pinion and 0 at the t case. 12-13 degrees is what the drive shaft is pointing at. So at the joint this is only a 4-5 degree angle overall. At this point the driveshaft shop told me it will run with only having very minor vibes if at all above 35-45. At my tcase this is more of a problem as first its off and second its a the full 12-13 degrees. So what i think I may do is put in a normal high angle 41 degree long travel shaft then lower my front engine mounts until I get about 2-3 degrees up front. This is turn will also lower the over all angle of the driveshaft would should put me in the range of not having vibration problems or very minimal. The rear arleady has a cv so no problems here.

I edited this after re checking my measurments. the U joint angles on these stock were a few degrees different it seems. The 9 degree pinion didn't change with the spring over or if it did very very little. The case might have changed slightly but I can't see how it was ever even close to 9 degrees. Why didn't these come with cvs in the first place? Honestly with these measurments if I drop the front mounts an inch my u joint at the axle will probably only be 2-3 degrees which would mean I wouldn't even need a cut and turn to run a single cv driveshaft. The alignment is great. I drive 80 mph all day long sometiems even 85 after photo radar to make up for lost time and get no wandering no death wobble at all. I guess i'm just a little confused at these angles from the factory.
Any input on this idea?
 
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I would notch the tranny pan. I ran a notched pan on my TH400 for years without any issues.
 
The mini CV is about the same size as the 1310 CV but much stronger and all around better quality. From what I remember besides notching the pan, you need to also grind the transmission case to get a CV to fit.

The mini truck 40d ujoint was the only solution I could come up with. Maybe things have changed since then (2001). Withthe setup I ran the vibrations were not too bad but its definately alot better with a CV.

I would give Jess at High Angle a call. He is by far the most knowledgable driveshaft guy I have ever talked to (and I have talked/ worked with alot).
 
I've thought some more on this. I changed my mind. I talked to a driveshaft shop again and I think I can make it work. He told me he could take better than an 8th off a 1310, which was close as it sits. If I can work the pan enough this wont be neccassary. If The transmission case needs any off I'm confident I can get a good 1/4 out of it as well remove one pan bolt and replace with two re drilled and tapped off the corners. I don't think this will be needed as it seems that part clears alright. My neighbor is a transmission guy i'm giong to have him bring me a new pan and have him give me the measurments on the valve body then cut it down to the bare minimum build a new corner and weld it up. If this isn't enough I'll have the drive shaft clearanced. Then if the corner of the transmission body rubs its getting the grinder. And the bolt gets in the way its going away and getting replaced.
 
CHRIST ON A FRICKING BIKE!
This is what I have to look forward to?!:bang:
 
CHRIST ON A FRICKING BIKE!
This is what I have to look forward to?!:bang:

That driver's side drop axle is starting to look more and more appealing...;)

The one I thought I had found for you looks like it is being used.:crybaby:

Jack
 
That driver's side drop axle is starting to look more and more appealing...;)

The one I thought I had found for you looks like it is being used.:crybaby:

Jack

YES, actually it IS!:crybaby:
 
I really think this is going to work I'll post up some pictures of what it takes as soon as I can get the driveshaft. my neighbor is a transmission builder and I'm working with gloeco here locally to get me a shaft quickly to try it. I know people are hit or miss on gloeco but they built my rear 1350 cv long spline shaft and its great. I think they are a lot better when you deal with them in person. I'm going to go for a 1310 cv up top and my bottom angle is 3 degrees so I should be alright with just 1 cv.
 
Not sure if this was brought up or not, but had you thought of reversing the shaft so that the slip was at the t case end?
One of the guyz on the rock gods forum had done this for clearance reasons and has not had a problem with it....

I might look into that too.
 
Yea just to four wheel but I really want to get a cv up there for those rare occasions I get into snow. I'm pretty sure I can make it fit. I'll post up some pictures of how it goes. As a side note I did offset the engine slightly when I installed it so that helps me a little bit as well. I'll get the cv shaft on tuesday or wednesday and then I'll see how close it is. I got the extra pan already in case. While i'm at it I figured i'd have the tranny beefed up a little more.
Correct me if I'm wrong but does an fj60 vibrate over 40-45 stock? It seems like they would as the pinion and transfer case angles don't match to begin with?
 

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