4RNR Caliper Upgrade Laundry list - specifics for fj62 ???? Proportioning valve?

[Chase77]

All,

After rear ending a dude this morning who slammed on his breaks, I'm finally done with my s***ty breaks. Ive done the searches. I know the basics. But I only have today to fix this and need some questions answered specific to the 62 series asap.

#1 If using a 92-96 MC do I need to worry about the proportioning valve the 62 series has? Landpimp mentioned this in one of the threads but did not specify if this causes a problem on the 62.

#2 If using a 92-96 MC does this resolve the issues with the break fluid level sensor? Anthing special I have to do?

#3 Not specific to 62. But no one mentioned the rotors they were using. Im inferring they just used new stock LC Rotors or the DBA slotted for a LC. Is this right or do I need 4 RNR rotors?

#4 Cause I'm in a blind rush I just wanted to be totally clear on the laundry list of parts I need. Please tell me what Im missing.

1. 92-96 calipers and pads

2 92-96 1" bore mc out of v6 4rnr

3 Rotors (already have new bremo's I was going to redo the stock breaks with)

4 12" soft lines part # 38878 at Napa (Nobody said this is a must, just convenient. Is this a neccesity?)


5 Anyother odds and ends?

Proportioning valve etc.?

Tools to be used: ( Grinder, break line bender, all the misc wrenches/sockets, sawzall for back plate, 6 pack of becks dark....)


6 Any advice on what not to do?

Thanks as usual

- Chase

Should also mention my bitch is fine just a f'd driver fender, bumper, and valence. Time to get rid of the ugly ass squares

 

[baldredhead]

the rotors are stock LC ones

you don't HAVE to change the soft lines. the options are:

a) longer lines to bypass the factory junction block, use the rear frame to axle soft line

b) grind off junction block rivets, use new stock (napa) hoses, find appropriate fasteners at hardware store to reattach junction block

c) diasassemble and redo as is

i'm betting (a) or (c) are the fastest options, (a) subject to part availability. my NAPA had to order in the longer lines

i havn'et completed the swap, can't really help with the other questions

 

[agent orange]

It looks like youve got all the parts youll need. It should be even better braking with the new brembo rotors, i just reused my stockers. As far as the brake fluid light goes, mine no longer illuminates all the time, it just come on with the ebrake, i dont know why but it just fixed itself. No more low fluid sensor, but i would notice if the fluid was low anyways (im forever wrenching around under the hood).

Why do you want to eliminate the stock short flex lines? Easier to take out birfields or what? I always prefer to keep as much hard line as possible but thats just me.

About the proportioning valve, i left the stocker in place since as i see it, the truck came with discs up front and drums in the back, and until i go to rear discs that built in proportioning valve still serves its stock purpose so im leaving it for now. If you have the time, i might actually do away with it however. It would simplify a rear disc brake swap to already have a adjustable pv in place, and i im no where near to locking my rears up so i bet they could take some more line pressure. Is there a way to adjust the stock proportioning valve?

Matt

 

[Mark W]

If you're just talking about swapping the larger calipers onto your front end (not a 4wheel disc conversion), then you making this a lot more complicated than it is. Just trim the dust shield a little bit, bolt the new calipers on and you're done. No need for any other changes. Everytime I service the brakes for the first time on a rig I acquire I do this upgrade. I've done it on a BUNCH of custmers rigs too.

Doesn't get much simpler.


Mark...

 

[Chase77]

As usual you guys make like that much eaiser. Thanks for all of the clarification. Going to dig in an hour from now.