4bd1t isuzu going into fj

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Threads
6
Messages
21
IM ON A MISSION NOW.
I CANT SEEM TO FIND AN ADAPTER TO CONVERT AN ISUZU 4BDIT TO A MANUAL TOYOTA TRANS.
IVE FOUND ADAPTERS FOR SBC TO TOYOTA BUT NO ONE CAN COME UP WITH A WAY OF STUFFING A 4BD1T INTO AN FJ40 WITHOUT CHANGING THE TRANS OR TURNING IT INTO AN AUTOMATIC.
WHAT I FIND IS I NEED TO PUT THE MOTOR IN,CONNECT TO A NV4500,DUMP MY NON-SPLIT TC,CHANGE IT TO A SM205,THEN REPLACE THE REAR END WITH A CENTERED DIF.
I KNOW IM NOT THE ONLY ONE THAT IS HELLBENT ON USING A 3.9 ISUZU. I JUST DON'T WANT TO CHANGE STUFF OVER AND OVER UNTILL ITS RIGHT.
AFTER 20 HRS OF COMBING THROUGH WEB PAGES AS OLD AS 8 YEARS AGO IM STILL CONFUSED.
HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:crybaby::crybaby::crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:
 
As I understand it (I use an Isuzu gearbox, so my adapter issues were gearbox-transfer) the Isuzudieselswapper kit makes the back of your Isuzu look like a chev.
You then take a chev-toyota adapter and bolt it to the Isuzudieselswapper kit.

What gearbox do you have, will you have high enough gearing for the 4BD1T? They're best cruising around 1800-2000rpm.
 
I am just starting my install of a 4BD2t into my 85' 60. I am using my existing H55 manual also!

To make this work:

1) Use the Isuzu swappers adapter ring to make the rear of the Isuzu engine to Chevy V8 bell housing pattern. Go to issuzuswappers.com Read all info, it will make sense.

2) Find a Chevy to Toyota bell housing, ie Downey, Advanced Adapter, etc.

3) Find manual Isuzu flywheel

4) Basically install engine

This will be a great swap.

Doug

PS - Scroll down just a few pages to 4BD1t swap by orange45 it will tell you a lot about the Isuzu swap to a LC
 
Here it is.
Just like mentioned above.

isu50a-bb.jpg
 
FL cruiser,

I read and followed your build and am just starting the same thing with a 1992 4BDt2 also.

How has everything been working? Good I hope. What kind of real world mileage have you been getting? Happy with the power?

Anything you would do different?

Do you have any good pics of the install? Did you leave you trans in the same place as stock with the stock mount? Did the Isuzu supply tube to the turbo not clear the firewall? Did it interfere with the heater valve?

I've got more questions...If you have the time!

Thanks

Doug
 
Last edited:
Doug, Everything works well. Just got back from a 5200 mile road trip Florida to Moab and back.
I would be happier with 2 or 3 more MPG. Averaged 18.4 MPG's on the trip, but that's with mountain driving and strong winds. 20.5 MPG's is the normal for flat Florida driving with speeds under 70MPH.

I'm impressed with the performance. It's effortless and non laboring keeping up with city traffic, and it charges up mountain passes in fourth gear. It always starts easily with a touch of the starter. Never any exhaust smoke either.
The engine is fairly quiet for a diesel. All the foam I put on the firewall probably wouldn't have been necessary.

There isn't much I'd do differently. Some minor shortcomings I addressed such as installing a bigger 3" exhaust, adding shrouding/ductwork between the radiator support and radiator, and getting the power steering cooler away from the front of the intercooler.

The transmission mount is in the same location in relation of front to rear as the original, but it's over to the passenger side 1 1/2" than before. The driveshafts are the original length. The original engine and drivetrain sits 2" to 3" drivers side of center. Now it all sits 1" left of center.
I built another transmission crossmember because of my unique situation of using a Marlin Toybox and lifting the drivetrain up another 2" in the frame because of space allowed by the body lift.

Turbo to firewall clearance was tight. Just enough room between the turbo and firewall for a rubber elbow. Turbo and hydroboost competed for the same area. Hydroboost had to be rotated upside down. Since the Hydroboost is smaller than vacuum booster, I there's a possibility you might have clearance issues if you are attempting to keep the tranny in the original location. I didn't have an Isuzu supply tube to try out, but I suspect there might be firewall clearance issues with that.
I guess you probably won't know for sure until you make an attempt at fitting the engine in, but if you have any issues at all, it will be those.
Many times it's just easier to position the engine/drivetrain where it fits best and worry about easy cheap driveshaft mods later.

Do you have any lift ? On mine the engine sits 5 " higher above the front diff than it would normally sit. The oil pan with it's protruding side sump is OK and doesn't hit. If your truck has less than 5" of lift, you might consider modifying the pan by removing the side sump. Maybe a 4BD1T oil pan might work???

What size tires are you running? The Isuzu seems most economical and comfortable highway cruising around 2150 RPM.

Unfortunately I don't have any good pictures. It's raining out, and can't take any. Will take some later or tomorrow and get them to you.

I'll be more than happy to answer any questions.
You'll be pleased with your swap :D

Here's a couple pics from the install.

Steve
isu80dbb.jpg


isu74fbb.jpg


isu77fbb.jpg
 
Steve,

Thanks for info and tips. Your help is much appreciated as it helps me plan in advance and avoid many problems.

I have the complete NPR 1/2 cut with all parts and accessories which I think will help. I have been running the engine in the NPR frame as it has full working cooling system and accessories. I welded legs to the NPR frame to use for mock-up and test fitting everything prior to install. I'm waiting on IDS kit, which should be here any day.

A few questions:

1) Engine offset - You offset the engine and trans 1.5 inches to passenger side, correct? Is the engine/trans parallel to the to the frame, or are the angled? You said trans is 1.5" to pass side and engine is 1"?

2) Lift - I have an OME 3" so I might have a few clearance issues with the front end. But won't know until I have placed the engine in the frame. Do you have a oil pan to axle housing picture. I will have to check out a 4BD1 oil pan, though our oil filters and mounts are very different on the 4BD2's.

3) Turbo to firewall - I think the NPR turbo inlet pipe is going to clear as it's very compact. I think it's tighter than a silicone 90. Check my picture below. Do you have a straight down picture at the firewall?

4) Brake Booster - Probably biggest issue. Will know once engine is place...Just have to deal with it. What is your distance from center line of turbo to center line of brake booster/hydro boost?

5) Clutch - What did you use for a throw out bearing? I have the Downey Chevy V8 instructions which says to use a LC 3 speed bearing and a modified throw out bearing hub?

Did you place the slave cyl at the same distance from fork as stock on the bell housing/engine? Again Downey says the rod is too short?

What clutch did you use? I found an old Downey 11" kit for the Chevy V8 to Toyota 4/5 speed. It's supposed to have a special diaphram to work with the Toyota slave travel???

How does your clutch work?

6) Air Cond - I know you don't run AC, but I want to. Could you measure the distance between the oil pan to block flange and the LC steering gear box? I am hoping to mount ac compresssor in the stock location if there is enough room. I found a complete AC set to purchase if I have enough room to place compressor. My donor did not have AC.

7) Did you lighten the Isuzu flywheel? Did you use the steel/C Iron chevy flywheel? I'm using a 11" 168 tooth aluminum chevy flywheel which weighs 13.5 lbs after I remove ring gear. I saw another LC swap where they machined the Isuzu flywheel to remove 9+ lbs.! I think I'm going to do this also to keep the total flywheel weight as close to stock as possible. I am also going to balance the double flywheels with the IDS adapter. Did you drill and tap the Isuzu flywheel yourself? Hard or easy? What pilot bearing did you use? Stock 60? Did you have to modify the IDS adapter to accept the bearing?

8) 3" exhaust - What did you start with? What was the problem? I have a new 2.5" and was going to use it. How did you route your by the starter?


On my end, my 60 has a H55 with 3.70 gears and 33" tires. I think my final gearing is pretty close.

I'm going to use my (almost new) 4 core 60 radiator and AC condensor with the NPR intercooler in the front of stack. I am planning to make new radiator side mounts to move the whole stack back. From measurements so far, it looks like it all fits. Even the NPR fan fits the 60 shroad. We'll see.

I'm using a 62 throttle pedal assy and cable. On the engine side the 62 cable is perfect, but not sure of length yet. For engine shut off I'm going to run a manual cable to the choke cable location on the dash.


Check out my pics to see if they may help you any. I have found a few good sources for used NPR parts.


Thanks again

Doug
For Sale1.webp
For Sale2.webp
For Sale3.webp
 
Last edited:
Steve,

A few pictures of my turbo inlet.

Doug
IMG_5195.webp
IMG_5196.webp
IMG_5197.webp
 
Sorry no pictures yet. It’s been raining three days straight here. :frown: Hopefully it’ll stop tomorrow and some pictures can be taken.
I’ll answer what I can now other than the measurements and pictures.

The engine offset is about 1” drivers side of center as opposed to being 2 ½” originally.

I bought a lightly used Downey bell housing and clutch kit from a Mud member here. No thinking involved on the clutch or components. Stock LC slave and rod was used with its placement the same distance from the clutch fork as stock. I ground a flat sot on the IDS adapter, then drilled and tapped a hole there and one on the Isuzu bell housing to attach the Toyota slave.
I guess another option would be to use a longer rod and build a slave bracket. You might run out of room to mount it too far forward because of the oil filter.
The clutch worked great from the beginning.
Speaking of the Downey clutch, it would sure be nice to have a list of the replacement parts for future reference. Looks like you’ve done most of that. I’ll be interested in knowing what parts you use if you go that route.

I mounted a power steering pump in the area where the A/C compressor was. I first made the mistake of making brackets that positioned the pump to low, and making them before the engine was test fitted. The pump and the steering box interfered. I had to make new brackets positioning the pump higher up. I’ll get those measurements for you tomorrow.
You shouldn’t have any problem at all fitting an A/C compressor as long as it’s high enough. I have another 4BD2 engine on the floor of the garage that still has a compressor on it. I’ll try to guestimate for you if the stock Isuzu bracket compressor setup will work.

I didn’t do any flywheel lightening. Just bolted up a standard Chevy 168 tooth flywheel and went with it. It works fine. There’s no throttle lag and the engine revs up as quickly and freely as any other diesel.

I got an Isuzu pilot bearing from Fleetpride part# 203FF for the Isuzu crankshaft/front part of the adapter. There it’s really just for centering purposes.. For the adapter where the H55 input shaft goes in, a bronze bushing from MAF or AA was used.

I drilled and tapped the Isuzu flywheel myself on a drill press. The IDS mounting flange centers itself on the flywheel and is a perfect template. I found a drill bit the same OD as the IDS adapter cones holes. Ran that bit barely into the flywheel just enough to get a centering point. A point to start drilling the actual size hole you need to drill and tap.
It was easy.
I had a complete a complete 2 ½” exh system to the back bumper. It worked OK. Could have kept it w/o any problems. There was an issue where the EGT’s were getting over 1400 when the pedal was stomped to the floor going up a long mountain pass. By going with the 3” exhaust, max EGT’s are about 100 degrees cooler now. Not that big an issue here in Florida, but wanted it right before the Rocky Mountain trip.
Performance is about the same, but more boost could be added now I guess.
I wouldn’t sweat the exhaust size issue.

For myself the H55, 3:70, 33’s combo wouldn’t be satisfying for extended highway trips because I prefer to travel at 70 to 75MPH speeds. The H55’s OD just isn’t enough. Too bad there isn’t any higher gears available than 3:70’s. Even with 37” tires, the first thing I did was pull out the 4:11’s and 3:70’s went back in.
But an H55 sure beats a 4 speed!. You should be able to travel 65 MPH with normal RPM’s.

I forgot to mention I’m using a Mitsubishi TD05 turbo off a Fuso truck. I think it’s pretty close in size to the original turbo. I only used it because it’s what I had and the original one was frozen. It worked out nice because the exhaust exits down instead of being aimed back toward the firewall.

FYI, A LC fan will bolt right up to the Isuzu fan clutch.

Give me a couple of days and I’ll get back with you on the other stuff.
 
Steve,

On the clutch, do you know if the throw out bearing the Toyota part from a 60 4 speed or 3 speed?

Thanks

Doug
 
I'm not sure on the throw out bearing. Not sure how Downey set theirs up.

Still no measurements for you. Every daylight moment I've been home the past few days it's been raining.

A pic of the A/C compressor mounting. From the crank centerline to the outside edge of the compressor pulley, the distance is 13 1/2"
DSCN3953 bb.webp
 
Steve,

Thanks for the pic. On your install, do you think you could have fit the AC compressor, with the stock Isuzu mount, between the engine and frame rail/steering box?

I found an AC "Kit" with all the bits, but if no room...

I also found some more info on the clutch bits I'll send you.

Thanks


Doug
 
Thanks for the pic. On your install, do you think you could have fit the AC compressor, with the stock Isuzu mount, between the engine and frame rail/steering box?

Doug,
I just measured the distance between the crank center line and steering box. Guess what, the measurement is exactly the same as the measurement from crank center to outside edge of the A/C compressor on the 4BD2 on the garage floor. Front to back clearance of motor mounts isn't a problem at all.

Of course your measurement could end up an inch or two either way due to margins of error in measurements etc. Still too close for comfort.

the A/C compressor can be moved up closer to the alternator. It would work out nice pulley wise to have the compressor on the drivers side. I mounted a huge monster York A/C compressor on the pass side. That means you'll have more than enough room on the pass side if you decide to make custom brackets. Sanden 508 compressors are just under $200 brand new and you'd have more of a universal mounting and cheaper compressor replacement in the future if you went with custom brackets and a Sanden/Sankyo style. You can buy Sandens with flare fittings too for easy hoses.

Sorry for the poor quality pics. Sunny daylight and pics still dark.

Oil pan to diff clearance is 3" I put a 1.75" spacer between the frame and pass side bump stop. Your engine will be 2" closer to the diff than mine. Any movement of the engine forward rapidly decreases clearance. I think i would lop off the side sump.

MY DD60 is pretty much the same as yours. OME lift, 33's etc. Some day I'll replace the 6.2 with the 4BD2 in the garage. This measuring made up my mind that I'll mod the oil pan by lopping off the side sump.
I can dig up pictures of modified oil pans I stole from other peoples threads.

More looking and measuring makes me think getting the exhaust out between the starter, firewall and frame might be a challenge. If the engine ends up coming forward some, it might be easier.

Center line of turbo to center line of Master/ PB booster is 6 3/8"
Steve
I
diff clrnc bb.webp
DSCN3961 bb.webp
 
Steve,

Oil mods for sure. But brake booster is issue one. The ac comp may have to go on the pass side, which helps somewhat, as that's the original LC mount side. I have a 4BD2 AC set on the way now, so I'll see what happens this weekend. Lots of tape and tape measure work!

Doug
 
Bummer tonight!

I found a hole in aluminum side on the IP side of block near the rear oil fitting. I noticed a few drips and found a 3/16 dia hole. It looks like someone had filled it and the filler material broke down and leaked.

PITA! To repair the IP has to come off and I have to find the part. Wonder how much $$$ it is?

Bummed twice as I have all my parts now that the IDS ring showed today. I was going to start this weekend.

I wonder if I could weld the hole, but it is cast aluminum. Any other repair ideas??

Doug
 
That sounds like the oil cooler, it runs down the side of the block behind the injector pump.
They weld up well, we had one hit by frost 20 years ago, it was welded up and to this day is still running fine.
 
Dougal,

If you check the 4BTswaps on the Isuzu side, I posted more details.

It's still a bummer as I was ready to start my swap!

Doug
 
Back
Top Bottom