Hello Forum,
I typically post on the 100 Series forum, since most of the work I do is on 100 Series SUVs.
But, I needed to create this tool while working on a 2006 GX470, so it's more appropriate here...
When doing a Timing Belt / Water Pump replacement, if there hasn't been a recent Coolant replacement, I open the Passenger Side Engine Block Drain to drain the coolant out of that side of the block.
Removing the (2) Oil Cooler Hoses on the Front of the Engine drains the Driver Side of the Engine Block.
When opening the Passenger Side Engine Block Drain, with a 10mm Socket, the threads on the Brass Plug stripped.
I soaked it with Penetrating Oil twice, 2 hours before, then 1 hour before, but it still stripped.
I'm in the Rust Belt (Pittsburgh), and there was a little rust where the Brass Plug is threaded in.
So, now I had the Steel Body of the Block Drain still in the Engine Block, and the stripped Brass Plug out.
Note: Seized Block Drains are not uncommon in the Rust Belt and I've had to replace several in 100 Series SUVs.
The access to the Passenger Block Drain is limited.
Not that hard to get a 10mm socket on the Brass Plug, but getting a wrench on the Steel Body of the Drain was not possible.
I was also unsuccessful at getting a Crows Foot to work.
So, in the pictures below you'll see the tool that I made.
I took a Regular 3/8" Drive 17mm Chrome Socket (Vintage Craftsman...), placed it in a vice, and used an Angle Grinder to remove one of the 6 flats.
Very similar to an Oxygen Sensor Socket.
IMO, you're better off using a Chrome Socket vs an Impact, as Chrome Sockets are typically a Harder Metal than Impacts.
The torque setting for the Steel Body is 36 Ft Lbs.
The FSM states that after you reach the specified torque, you should rotate the Drain Union until the drain port is facing forward.
Once I applied the specified torque, the drain port was not facing forward, but it was in a good position for future coolant drains, so I did not rotate it further.
Note: The new Engine Block Drain comes with Pre-Coated Threads.
Hopefully this helps someone doing a Coolant Change / Flush in the Future.
Enjoy.
Tom
I typically post on the 100 Series forum, since most of the work I do is on 100 Series SUVs.
But, I needed to create this tool while working on a 2006 GX470, so it's more appropriate here...
When doing a Timing Belt / Water Pump replacement, if there hasn't been a recent Coolant replacement, I open the Passenger Side Engine Block Drain to drain the coolant out of that side of the block.
Removing the (2) Oil Cooler Hoses on the Front of the Engine drains the Driver Side of the Engine Block.
When opening the Passenger Side Engine Block Drain, with a 10mm Socket, the threads on the Brass Plug stripped.
I soaked it with Penetrating Oil twice, 2 hours before, then 1 hour before, but it still stripped.
I'm in the Rust Belt (Pittsburgh), and there was a little rust where the Brass Plug is threaded in.
So, now I had the Steel Body of the Block Drain still in the Engine Block, and the stripped Brass Plug out.
Note: Seized Block Drains are not uncommon in the Rust Belt and I've had to replace several in 100 Series SUVs.
The access to the Passenger Block Drain is limited.
Not that hard to get a 10mm socket on the Brass Plug, but getting a wrench on the Steel Body of the Drain was not possible.
I was also unsuccessful at getting a Crows Foot to work.
So, in the pictures below you'll see the tool that I made.
I took a Regular 3/8" Drive 17mm Chrome Socket (Vintage Craftsman...), placed it in a vice, and used an Angle Grinder to remove one of the 6 flats.
Very similar to an Oxygen Sensor Socket.
IMO, you're better off using a Chrome Socket vs an Impact, as Chrome Sockets are typically a Harder Metal than Impacts.
The torque setting for the Steel Body is 36 Ft Lbs.
The FSM states that after you reach the specified torque, you should rotate the Drain Union until the drain port is facing forward.
Once I applied the specified torque, the drain port was not facing forward, but it was in a good position for future coolant drains, so I did not rotate it further.
Note: The new Engine Block Drain comes with Pre-Coated Threads.
Hopefully this helps someone doing a Coolant Change / Flush in the Future.
Enjoy.
Tom
