3rd Gen Tundra Brake Upgrade question

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I think saying it's double the mass is a gross over exaggeration. Yes, you will get greater heat dissipation, and the 231 calipers will provide slightly larger hydraulic clamping power (with basically the same size pad).

But you have to look at the facts, basically everyone who has done the swap is going from warped rotors, shot pads, and black fluid to new rotors, pads, and fluid. So the change is drastic, and spectacular. And half of them even upgrade to braided stainless lines while doing the swap, so of course it's the greatest thing since aerosol cheese. Then they slap on new tires, new suspension, and stop driving like they stole it, and voila, it's a whole new vehicle.

Of course there's also those who do the swap, and note no differences. These of course are the outcasts who probably also claimed the deck plate mod didn't give them 20hp and 5 more mpg (bunch of pessimists). Don't get me started on the tundra coils! :rolleyes:

Point is, you will notice a difference. Has any R&D gone into this swap? Nothing scientific. Will I also do it, probably at some point, but I would only go to the 231s. I did notice a slight increase in stopping power just from braided lines, but I also flushed the system and put in new fluid. So it was hardly worth starting a new thread about my new-found magnificent stopping power.

Good luck with the install, hope it all goes smoothly, and make sure to let us know what you think. I honestly hope it's as glorious as some claim, because then I can justify the expense :D

I'll agree with you there. Just like people who get drilled/slotted rotors and think they stop so much better, but in reality, it's just the new pads/rotors vs old.

But I do believe the benefits are there for the Tundra upgrade. R&D? I don't think anybody went through any thermal testing or 60-0, 100-0 tests, but from people that tow quite a bit, they have noticed no or less warpage, whereas they went through the s12/s13 rotors like crazy. That's got to account for something.

Also, if it's no big deal adding 50-75% more mass with slightly larger pads, why did Toyota even do a TSB from 199 to 231's? I'm sure they put their time and efforts in testing out various systems and concluded the 199/231's were the best for heavy hailing and towing. Like I said, if I start to tow more, I'm doing this upgrade.
 
Just wanted to add a note that the antirattle clips from the 4runner will fit on the tundra set and work just fine. None of the auto parts stores around here had them. Dealer only I guess. They had a different style of little thin wire springs, but no need to buy them. You do of course need longer caliper pins.
 
I agree with flatland trd.
i did the trundra brakes while i installed my ss1.2 kit. just made sense to me while everything was off.
i ended up with the 231mm calipers and got SS brake lines to go with them.
biggest imporvement i felt was from the brakelines, the pedal felt better. i have yet to tow of wheel and see how the brake perform.
 
For those that had to grind the factory 16" wheels...how did this affect balancing your tires?
 
Got a question here
I went with carbon metallic pads and ss lines. I have 33s on my truck and 16 inch rims. I have all new rotors and drums, etc. I can barely lock them up and I notice fade after about 6 or so stops.
I can barely get the antilock to work cause I cannot brake well enough.
What gives

Air in lines or will these upgraded Toyota pads work?
Amy advise would be appreciated


If I might talk you out of it...

Get some new rotors (high quality)- switch to the upgraded Toyota pads for the 3rd generation 4Runner. You'll be exceptionally happy, without spending much time, money or effort.

I switched to the better pads (from CDan) about 22,000 miles ago- mucho, mucho mejor (better). The only thing I can figure is that the composition of the upgraded pads dissipates heat better off the rotor. The difference is like night and day. With the stock pads and new rotors, I was warping them within 500 miles.

Good luck,

Luke
https://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyota-trucks/181612-non-toyota-tundra-pads-rotors.html

Toyota part number appears to be 04465-35240
 
it sounds like you're not bled enough yet. Somewhere you have air that is compressing instead of actuating the cylinders.
 
OK, I will try to bleed the brakes again and see what I get. Originally, I did the RP, RD, FP and then FD sequence per FSM.
I have one question for everyone, I am running 33s MTs, between this and the weight of bumpers, and winches and tools, will the 33s along with everything else cause the problem?:confused::confused::confused:

Thanks, I have been doing a lot of reading on the tundra brake solution as an option.
I agree..... good walk through here....
4Runners.org - Brake Bleeeding
 
No, no, no. If you've bled properly, you'll be able to lock up the brakes and either come to a screeching halt (if you don't have ABS), or feel the brake pedal pulsating as the ABS tries to keep you from coming to a screeching halt. Even with a heavy bumper and larger tires.

Don't get sucked into the hype about larger brakes, make yours work properly.
 
Weekend 2
I bled them again and stillmthe same stoppong power as before
No real lock up capability.
I am going to pull the carbon metallic pads off the front an put the
Old toyota pads on tomorrow and try one last time If I get weak pedal then I go to 199 mm tundras


OK, I will try to bleed the brakes again and see what I get. Originally, I did the RP, RD, FP and then FD sequence per FSM.
I have one question for everyone, I am running 33s MTs, between this and the weight of bumpers, and winches and tools, will the 33s along with everything else cause the problem?:confused::confused::confused:

Thanks, I have been doing a lot of reading on the tundra brake solution as an option.
 
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