3M Undercoating (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rcr1996
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- May 29, 2005
- Threads
- 40
- Messages
- 144
- Location
- Nova Scotia, Canada
- Website
- www.archeophotography.com
You want something that doesn't dry out. Stay away from those black rubbery products.
Fluid Film is a great product (expensive) and the best rust protection in my opinion.
http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/
Fluid Film is a great product (expensive) and the best rust protection in my opinion.
http://www.eurekafluidfilm.com/
rcr1996 said:
- Thread starter
- #4
Fuild Film
I will check into fluid film. I definitely want a product that will last & last. I have had this truck for 20 years and I hope to get another 20 out of her. I want to make sure rust stays away. . .
I want us to be able to grow old together.
I will check into fluid film. I definitely want a product that will last & last. I have had this truck for 20 years and I hope to get another 20 out of her. I want to make sure rust stays away. . .
I want us to be able to grow old together.
Why do you say stay away from the black rubber products. I don't think fluid film is as a permanent of a undercoating as the 3m stuff would be. I use fluid film at work and it needs to be constantly maintain. Wiped off and sprayed on again, the fluid film will trap water if you contiuously spray over it. This stuff is a PITA to wipe off too. Although I think fluid film is a great procduct it definetly needs more attention than a permanent undercoating.Herbert said:
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
I had my truck sprayed with the "black rubber products" when I bought it 15+ years ago. Since then I have been fighting to remove it since it causes rust as soon as it peels away, and it WILL peel away! I now use Krown rust proofing and it does seem to work very well.
I've had to replace the frame on my truck, in my opinion, largely due to the "black rubber products".
I've had to replace the frame on my truck, in my opinion, largely due to the "black rubber products".
cruiser_guy said:
Cruiser Guy,
Know any Internet suppliers for Krown products ? The closest to me is Eastern Canada and I have yet not been able to convince them to ship me product ... a bit to far to drive. Krown is great stuff but yearly application is needed.
Cheers,
Cahil
It's been quite a while, but I (& lots of my motorhead buddies) have used 3M Body Schutz with success. I covered it with PPG black acrylic enamel so it'd be easy to wash the dirt off.
One caution which may now be unnecessary, the solvent it contains was very intoxicating, so use it outdoors only. I had my double garage door & side door open & got high as a kite undercoating a VW Super Beetle convertible.
One caution which may now be unnecessary, the solvent it contains was very intoxicating, so use it outdoors only. I had my double garage door & side door open & got high as a kite undercoating a VW Super Beetle convertible.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
cahilc said:
I don't know any internet suppliers. I get my truck done when I'm up in British Columbia each summer!
toyota has a OEM version. ask cdan for a price
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks for the replies. I am looking for a undercoating product that after I do the prep, I can spray on the metal to seal it out. After reading some posts, I am concerned about long term protection of "rubber based products"
[[It's been quite a while, but I (& lots of my motorhead buddies) have used 3M Body Schutz with success. I covered it with PPG black acrylic enamel so it'd be easy to wash the dirt off.]]
Has anyone else had success with 3M Body Schutz? I am going to check into this application?
Fluild Film or Krown (Canada) - Both of these sound like good products and I don't mind spraying down my undercarriage every year for extra protection. Sounds like good insurance.
rcr1996
[[It's been quite a while, but I (& lots of my motorhead buddies) have used 3M Body Schutz with success. I covered it with PPG black acrylic enamel so it'd be easy to wash the dirt off.]]
Has anyone else had success with 3M Body Schutz? I am going to check into this application?
Fluild Film or Krown (Canada) - Both of these sound like good products and I don't mind spraying down my undercarriage every year for extra protection. Sounds like good insurance.
rcr1996
- Joined
- May 29, 2005
- Threads
- 40
- Messages
- 144
- Location
- Nova Scotia, Canada
- Website
- www.archeophotography.com
Fluid film and other similar products (like Rust Check) displace water and get rid of it. They don't trap it. Don't fool yourself: No undercoating is permanent. The "Black rubbery stuff" dries out over time and cracks. Water/salt etc. gets in those cracks and the floors and the frame start to rust. Mostly undetected. By the time you realize it, it is too late, just like cruiser_guy said. It is MUCH better to do fluid film coatings. Each year if you have to. There are other rust products out there that do a good job and are a bit cheaper, like Rust Check:
http://www.rustcheck.com/
Another thing you can do is use Chain Saw oil. If you heat it up and melt one of those wax toilet sealers (don't laugh) you have one great rust preventer. That stuff sticks to the frame and doesn't dry out.
In order to prevent rust successfully you CONSTANTLY have to stay on top of things. Undercoat with an "oily" product every year and you will be fine. Don't forget to spray it in the hollow areas in the body.
Of course it all depends how bad the area is you live in. Here in Nova Scotia there is salt on the road 6 month of the year AND we live directly by the sea. That's as bad as it gets
http://www.rustcheck.com/
Another thing you can do is use Chain Saw oil. If you heat it up and melt one of those wax toilet sealers (don't laugh) you have one great rust preventer. That stuff sticks to the frame and doesn't dry out.
In order to prevent rust successfully you CONSTANTLY have to stay on top of things. Undercoat with an "oily" product every year and you will be fine. Don't forget to spray it in the hollow areas in the body.
Of course it all depends how bad the area is you live in. Here in Nova Scotia there is salt on the road 6 month of the year AND we live directly by the sea. That's as bad as it gets
PAFJ said:
I would recommend POR15. I used that this last fall and if that stuff is not permanent, then it is damn close to it.
Took me a week just to get it off of my hands too...hehe. Goes on like a paint. You should order the kit with the metal prep and cleaner/degreaser too as this will increase the bonding properties.
Took me a week just to get it off of my hands too...hehe. Goes on like a paint. You should order the kit with the metal prep and cleaner/degreaser too as this will increase the bonding properties.
Did the frames initially come primered and painted? What about stripping the any existing rust under the truck and then primering/painting? Then coat with some hydrophobic wax or oil? Seems like that should lock out the water pretty well...
I've restored cars and trucks since the early '90's in southern Idaho. The utah salt hits us hard here, and the best undercoating i have found is a good epoxy sealer on your metal after it has been well prepped. Almost all of the thick stuff will eventually crack, even if you can't see it, know that there are cracks and they are holding water and in my case salt against the metal. If you don't put thethick crap on you have a chance to both clean corroision aiding compuonds off of your vehicle and also get it dry. Rust prep it, epxy seal it and wash it now and then is what I think works best. On rockers I like the 3M rocker spray that comes in the green labeled can, Has a mild texture, is sandable also.
Good luck
Good luck
What does prepping the undercarriage entail? Would it be a silly idea to sand blast the metal clean, or is it better to slather on the rust proof coating over the existing surface rust?
when i took my cruiser to get undercoated at zeibert i asked the guy spraying my rust proof coating about prepping the undercarriage and he said it wasn't necessarySouthbound said:
this was about three years ago fortunately I've had no issues
POR 15 doesnt hold up against salt very well. it also cracks and chips. i have blown $100+ dollars on it and have had nothing but disappointment. i used to tout it as the saviour of all toyota products. after about 2 years, i am convinced you have to apply it under lab conditions to get it to work.
ever look up the formula for 'waxoil?' cheap, lasts a long time, and WORKS.
ever look up the formula for 'waxoil?' cheap, lasts a long time, and WORKS.
I think it all depends on what lengths you want to go to "rust-proof" the frame of your wagon. I'm currently working on my "project" fj62. I'm having the frame sandblasted down to clean metal and applying a thermal spray galvanizing coat to it. After that I'm going to spray a couple of epoxy coats over it. But like I said it depends on what lengths you want to go to. Prep work is usualy what takes up most of the time. I could be wrong, I've been downing beers for the last 2 hours.
Nick B.
Nick B.