383 BUNDERA. headers, tailshafts, transfer???

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Joined
May 28, 2013
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Location
Rockhamton
Hi everyone long this is my first post!

I would like to know what everyones opinions are on my new build... heres the specs

ENGINE IS 383 CHEVY STROKER PERFORMANCE ENGINE
RUNNING T700 EXTREAM, 2000 TQ CONVERTER
STANDARD TRANSFER CASE + MARKS 4X4 ADAPTOR
STANDARD DIFFS (till they explode)
3" DOBINSONS LIFT + CASTOR CORRECTION + FULL UNDER BODY BUSH KIT + TOUGHDOG RTC DAMPENER

4x4 is Toyota Prado Bundera LJ 1991 (imported model)
It has all the typical Hilux/4runner/Surf running gear, it was a 2LTRE with an R151 or R150 (not to sure) Coil all round, LSD (standard)

Now i am at the stage of assembeling the engine and gearbox together which is now done but i wanted to know what to do about the tailshafts one is now too long and the other too short... (ps i cant swap them already tried)

And the other thing is i wanted to know what you guys out there used for your headers as mine (huggers) seem to foul on the engine mount adaptor from Marks 4x4? only on the LHS but.

Any suggestions/Help would be greatly appreciated thanks
 
I would like to know what everyones opinions are on my new build...

its all do-able but pretty tight mate, my mates just finishing off a LS1 conversion in his LJ71 its all up and running and just going through a bit of a shakedown now, I cant really remember its been a while since I've been out to see it but I think he chopped down the tail shaft of the auto trans and made his own transfer case adaptor to keep the length of the trans combo down, he had to make up new front and rear driveshafts. He pulled out the rear 8" diff and housing and put a 9 1/2" diff and housing out of a 60 series cruiser in the rear, its still got the standard 8" high pinion diff in the front I'm not sure if he's keeping that or not at one stage he was looking at putting a Nissan patrol front end in it? Everything was real tight in the engine bay he only just got everything to fit
 
I would have gone with a V6.Lots of parts back up and more room under the bonnet.
You wont be able to use all the power of 383 in something that short and tall
 
thanks for the info sadam, it is a vey tight fit and i cant seem to find any headers that will fit (sigh) without going to ram horns... i may have to just modify the ones i have already,

About the diffs, i am unsure but i thought that the rear LSD diff was strong? dont ricers use them for big hp cars? although i did buy two air locker kits for the front and rear but i am tossing up weather to just sell em and get bigger cruiser/patrol diffs... which would be the better of the two?

PS my rear diff is central and the front is offset toward the drivers side.

Is there anyone i should/can talk to about the driveshafts?
 
I would have gone with a V6.Lots of parts back up and more room under the bonnet.
You wont be able to use all the power of 383 in something that short and tall

thanks rosco, but previously owning EJ20T and EJ25T wrx's i know what its like when u get used to the last power upgrade, u get bored and need more, more, more, etc im sick of spending every penny and spare time working to squeeze extra power out. I figured this way i wont have to squeeze it and your right it should be more than enough ;)
 
Tail shafts are easy, just measure what you need and drop them at the tailshaft shop to be re-tubed to what you want.


thanks for the info sadam, it is a vey tight fit and i cant seem to find any headers that will fit (sigh) without going to ram horns... i may have to just modify the ones i have already,

About the diffs, i am unsure but i thought that the rear LSD diff was strong? dont ricers use them for big hp cars? although i did buy two air locker kits for the front and rear but i am tossing up weather to just sell em and get bigger cruiser/patrol diffs... which would be the better of the two?

PS my rear diff is central and the front is offset toward the drivers side.

Is there anyone i should/can talk to about the driveshafts?

The rear LSD will be useless, though the diff itself should hold together ok if you treat it gentle on 31''s. Give it a work out and it wont last long. Easy enough to upgrade though to a 9.5'' cruiser diff.
 
Tail shafts are easy, just measure what you need and drop them at the tailshaft shop to be re-tubed to what you want.




The rear LSD will be useless, though the diff itself should hold together ok if you treat it gentle on 31''s. Give it a work out and it wont last long. Easy enough to upgrade though to a 9.5'' cruiser diff.

Thanks mate, ill look into it when i get home, i plan on running 33" tyres and i dont plan on taking it easy... So best bet would be to upgrade to the 9.5" diff? Are the mounting pads the same on both the 8" and the 9.5"? Because i would hate to get the tailshaft made twice.... And should i leave the front one or swap it to? Ps i thought i remember reading somewhere that the front diff spins the opposite direction, if thats true should i be using a patrol diff in the front or not?
 
swapping the diffs out for larger ones isn't a quick unbolt and bolt some bigger ones in job you have to swap out the whole housing(s) and you'll have to chop off all your coil and link mounts and weld them onto the new housing(s). You could see how you go with 8" diffs but if you're going to be hammering it you'll probably keep spitting them out. My 40 series with a standard 350 is sweet on the larger 9 1/2 inch diffs and the same with my 75 series cruiser with a 6.0l LQ4 (truck version LS2 engine) they both take the all the extra hp without any problem, they both have 4 spider ARBs in them, I never set them up myself my mate did them and he set them up a bit tighter to combat any possible flexing under load
 
ok so i might see how it goes, but lets say i did detonate my diff :whoops: would there be any point fitting the locker for extra strenghth?

P.S. i wont be going flat all the time i just want to know i can... without leaving pieces of metal on the ground ;)
 
You might wish to look at uograding the diffs to nitro's or some other make.
 
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