35 in tire in the spare location: Canister relocation... (1 Viewer)

[Killacaviar]

I was just reading through @grinchy OE fuel tank install again since someone bumped it. It got me thinking... If we reroute and relocate the evap canister that sits above the spare location and modify the spare tire bracket, could we in theory push our spare all the way up close to the body (there is 5-7 inches of space up there).

Some modifying of the rear hitch and ensuring we stay off the pan hard should take care of the diameter. The problem I am trying to solve is a low hanging spare. Goal is to have a 12.5 wide tire just peak out below the hitch an inch or two at most.

I'm just thinking out loud and I'll dive under the truck tonight to see what else needs to be done to make this a reality. I'm not even sure it could be.

We sold our trailer unexpectedly and I am planning out our spring camping set up. Buy an upgraded Vorsheer or build out the LX to support 2 kids and 2 adults for 2-3 day trips and not daily it.

A trailer is a nuisance for our style of camping more often then not. If we do go that route The spare stays under the vehicle with a non swing out rear. If we don't get a trailer then I'll get a swing out bumper and this won't be an issue.

 

[TeCKis300]

I was just reading through @grinchy OE fuel tank install again since someone bumped it. It got me thinking... If we reroute and relocate the evap canister that sits above the spare location and modify the spare tire bracket, could we in theory push our spare all the way up close to the body (there is 5-7 inches of space up there).

Some modifying of the rear hitch and ensuring we stay off the pan hard should take care of the diameter. The problem I am trying to solve is a low hanging spare. Goal is to have a 12.5 wide tire just peak out below the hitch an inch or two at most.

I'm just thinking out loud and I'll dive under the truck tonight to see what else needs to be done to make this a reality. I'm not even sure it could be.

The tire rests on two spots, in addition to the pulley bracket. At the forward location, it rests against the frame crossmember which is hard monument and not going anywhere. At the rear, it rests on the pulley bracket but also against a rear tubular support off the hitch frame member.

The evap canister is in the shadow of the forward frame brace, so no real benefit to relocate. There is a small bracket that can be removed on the frame member itself that will buy maybe .25" IIRC?

At the hitch end, there would be benefit to raise the pulley and modify the tubular support bracket. Probably could make at least 1.5" of room upwards there, which is probably the most important spot for departure?

Perhaps one could deflate the tire and trap it between the two frame members without the charcoal canister in place?

We sold our trailer unexpectedly and I am planning out our spring camping set up. Buy an upgraded Vorsheer or build out the LX to support 2 kids and 2 adults for 2-3 day trips and not daily it.

A trailer is a nuisance for our style of camping more often then not. If we do go that route The spare stays under the vehicle with a non swing out rear. If we don't get a trailer then I'll get a swing out bumper and this won't be an issue.

This is the question that I keep trying to optimize as I do a lot of 2-3 days campouts. I camp with friends that have trailers and a Vorsheer XOC. Where I think I've landed is that I want to optimize the car to hose my family of 3-4 for a long weekend. I've been reasonably successful so far but there are trades. The recent purchase of a iKamper was for this.

For overlanding where we are setting down in different places every night and packing everything on the go, I find my fully loaded rig, iKamper, and rear hitch carrier for water and misc, has a better balance for just about anything, than my friends that pull trailers. If we're setting down camp and dropping most of our load, than a trailer works better for that scenario. In other words, there's no perfect setup. I may just go down the off-road trailer route too.

 

[Killacaviar]

The thought was to utilize those extra 3-4 inches from the Evaporators relocation to get the front of the tire up and sloped to the rear crossmember. It's probably not even worth the trouble. I have a 35x12.5 stuffed up there now aired down and my rear bumper is trimmed. Its unacceptably low, poor departure and looks ridiculous. I have no desire to throw a spare on the roof and no room to go in the cargo space with it. 2.5-3.5 inches gained would be enough to justify the work for me. Also, If my wife is going to drive the truck there is no way she is dealing with swing outs for daily tasks.
I've had a Opus Op4 and a Moby1 XTR (essentially and early model XOC as far as set up and amenities). I love a trailer with kids, I just find it way to limiting for short 2-3 day trips. Especially, if your wheeling altitude/tight stuff with folks that aren't towing. The XOC/Moby is a trailer with the least amount of sacrifices in my opinion. Constant moving, short trips and taller than a standard garage door present some major negatives for us.

I'm thinking ADGU sleeping platform with both drawers, a hard shelled tent on a sherpa rack and a rear bumper (Dissent, Slee or RLC). But 5k for a bumper is a big pill to swallow. The rear bumper would hold the new Dometic faucet system, 11L jugs, 2 burner cookpartner stove and a good cooler/fridge.

We always thought a shower would be nice to have while camping, in reality we only used it to wash dishes/hands with hot water if we don't want to dirty the sink lol. 2-3 days without a shower is just fine haha

 

[grinchy]

it’s around 5” above the existing hoist. I wasn’t able to put a 6” diameter 2.5 gal air tank above it without modifying the hoist.
For real clearance I think you’re looking at a rear bumper with tire relo to a swing. They’re dead handy for carrying stuff. Rlc shouldn’t be $5k.
You can always put a fuel tank in the new space from moving the tire , it’s good utility and allows you to put water on the bumper instead of fuel.
I have the same water system you mention and it is a good fit for a bumper (though I’m using the roof rack for the small jerries, long story related to me ordering the rlc bumper being Rotopaxed.)

 

[Killacaviar]

it’s around 5” above the existing hoist. I wasn’t able to put a 6” diameter 2.5 gal air tank above it without modifying the hoist.
For real clearance I think you’re looking at a rear bumper with tire relo to a swing. They’re dead handy for carrying stuff. Rlc shouldn’t be $5k.
You can always put a fuel tank in the new space from moving the tire , it’s good utility and allows you to put water on the bumper instead of fuel.
I have the same water system you mention and it is a good fit for a bumper (though I’m using the roof rack for the small jerries, long story related to me ordering the rlc bumper being Rotopaxed.)

Yea the RLC is a great option and priced beautifully. No need for more range, maybe if I spent more time in Utah, Nevada or SoCal. Utah is a fuel jerry and my range is solved. I’m really not trying to ad that level of weight at the moment.

Love the modularity of the dessent and the fit and finish of the slee. The RLC would be a great starter but needs some work to make it suit my needs.

I really dislike swing outs on a daily driven vehicle. Especially with a dog and two kids under 4. If I don’t get a trailer then I’ll grab a cheap 100 series as a third vehicle for around town and slap a proper rear bumper on. Otherwise I’ll come to terms with a cargo space mounting solution with one drawer.

I’m trying to suit the majority of my trips (almost every weekend). The uncommon ones need more range and that can be solved with a few jerry cans.

I certainly see the value in a larger fuel tank for some.

Thanks all, it does seem like you could grab 4 inches of clearance if you modify hoist system/mount as well.

 

[TeCKis300]

I think you know I keep a narrow 275 spare, mostly due to the 12.5 aux tank pushing things down 1" (pic below). I think it would just be about flush with the hitch if used without the LRA and a slightly modified hoist. I had shimmed my hoist ~3/8" up for a 305 tire without aux tank back in the day.

There's a few couple offroad campers in my group. From my perspective, the XOC is a fully featured off-road trailer but bordering on too large and heavy. I'm really leaning towards smaller and smaller off-road trailers where less is more.

 

[grinchy]

My 35” 10.5 wide tire on the stock hoist is a bit lower than @TeCKis300 pic. I have about 2” to the pumpkin bottom. My hoist isn’t as high as it could be, I’m using custom brackets as I had thrown my rail brackets out, I could do them better next time.
If I’m driving sporty trails I have to take the bike rack off the swingout and put the tire there instead.

 

[Killacaviar]

All great Info. Thanks guys. The great thing about the XOC is the sleeping Cabin.

A small trailer with a pullout kitchen, fridge and tent would be great. However, when you have a sleeping area thats ready 100% of the time, it’s really nice to pull into camp late and just hop into bed with zero setup. Especially with kids.

You lose that one luxury with a more compact trailer. I hated the opus for the amount of setup involved especially when changing camps every day.

 

[TeCKis300]

All great Info. Thanks guys. The great thing about the XOC is the sleeping Cabin.

A small trailer with a pullout kitchen, fridge and tent would be great. However, when you have a sleeping area thats ready 100% of the time, it’s really nice to pull into camp late and just hop into bed with zero setup. Especially with kids.

You lose that one luxury with a more compact trailer. I hated the opus for the amount of setup involved especially when changing camps every day.

Can't deny that. We camped through a 30-50mph windstorm this past weekend that surprised us in the middle of the night. Buddy in the XOC fared better than all of us, though it had his trailer shaking enough he didn't sleep well either. Another buddy had the main spar fail in his tent. Crawling into the cars is always the last bastion.