3/16 or 1/4 inch for bumper

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Probably just over 3/4 inch
I would try and integrate the recover points as the one piece connected to the frame.
I think this is stronger than welding two little pieces on
 
Yes, I took some pics today, so I hope to have a few up tomorrow.
I managed to tack weld the main portion of the bumper together today, hope to make up the wings tomorrow.
 
Aluminum is a different beast. Depending on the type of aluminum you get (there are a lot of choices, each with different properties) it will work in different ways. Yes it is lighter but it is not as strong as steel. For it to become as strong as steel it needs to be reinforced and gusseted a fair bit. Aluminum can crack and tear under impact (depending on type). I know of one guy that has an aluminum bumper (either 1/2" or just under) and he's bent it in places that I've pushed things with no worries. It is also harder to weld, more demanding to work with, a pain to grind and cut.
How hard are you on the bumper and did you check to see what weight difference you would have had if it were built out of 3/16" and 1/4". Difference in price? Did you get it done by someone or yourself?
 
Couple of pictures from yesterday. Btw should I use nylocks or nuts with lock washers? Nylocks seem to hold on much better, but are a pain to put on and off by hand.

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Nylocks. Lock washers are crap really. Nasa and some other US government facilities forbid the use of lock washers. The simplified reason being that once they are torqued down, they essentially become just a flat washer with no significant locking mechanics remaining.

"NASA Fastener Design Manual RP-1228:

The lockwasher serves as a spring whilel the bolt is being tightened. However, the washer is normally flat by the time the bolt is fully torqued. At this time it is equivalent to a solid flat washer, and its locking ability is nonexistent. In summary, a lockwasher of this type is usless for locking."



"Naval Ships' Technical Manual, Chapter 75:

Although lockwashers may be encountered, using the flat washers with selflocking nuts, self-locking fasteners, self-locking inserts, or thread sealants such as MIL-S-22473 anaerobic compounds is preferable.

If loosening has been a problem, however, replace the lockwashers with self-locking fasteners.

The helical spring lockwasher (Figure 075-5-11) is flattened when the bolt is torqued down. Once compressed, it acts as a flat washer, contributing normal friction between the nut or bolt and the bearing surface during tightening."
 
I prefer Nylocks, they are a pain to tighten buy hand but seem to hold better. Having said that Toyota does not use Nylock bolts on anything as far as I can recall.

Bumper is coming along great!
 
Thanks! Nylocks it is, I prefer them too...
So here are some more pictures, I just finished the wings. Not sure what to do for under the bumper, I was going to put a flat strip that basically is the same width as the crossmember that would go from frame rail to frame rail. There are 3 holes in the crossmember that I can use for 3 more bolts if I do that. That would make for 9 bolts total.
I also was thinking of using the 3 bolt holes under the frame rail on each side (where the tow hook goes).
If I did that and did not use the crossmember bolts that would make for 12 bolts total. I will not be towing anything.

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Here are two more, in the second picture you can see the red lines on the left end of the bumper, I plan to cut along the one towards the centre of the truck to get a nice angle that will follow the body lines of the truck.
Thoughts?

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I got a fabricator to build it up from a cardboard mockup I made. It's definitely considerably lighter than an equivalent steel one, perhaps not quite as tough but I haven't bent it yet. It did demolish the front end of a mazda miata who pulled out in front of me with only a small scratch on the bumper. I'd rather bend a bumper than the frame in the worst case. Mainly I like the idea of not having it rust / not having to paint it. Constant touching up of paint chips seems to be a fact of life on painted bumpers, otherwise ugly rust starts.
 
Nice, Miatas make for grreat parking spots :D

Ah, fond memories of my first bumper build, cut and welding everything. Keep track of your hours, I'm curious how long it will take you to do the entire build.

Nylocks are OK - go to your local fastener place and ask for "all metal lock nuts" you can get them in grade 8 no problem and work way better than nylocks. I do not recommend using them for mock up, and if you remove them, you can only truly get away with putting them back maybe once. Usually, I would recommend getting a new bolt and nut. They never back off, remain true to torque and are a pain to install, but it is the equivalent of welding something together almost.
For mock ups I just use normal nuts to hold things into place and for the final instal, the very final install, I use the all metal lock nuts.
Pacific Fasteners - Torque Locknuts
http://www.fasnetdirect.com/refguide/Nutsflexhvy.pdf

in relation to boxing it in, you have to have access to the hardware, leave enough room for that. Think about where the dirt, mud and water will want to go and put adequate drains, access, holes for it to go away or block it off so it never gets in there to begin with.
 
I am almost considering just adding a few gussets behind the bumper, with that lower angled piece water or anything else will just slide right off...

I should keep track of hours better,
There is a lot of umming, how should I do this? hmmm lol
Maybe 10 hours so far...
 
I forgot that I wanted to add some LED brake lights!
So now I have to figure out how to add them, they probably would not look good on the lower vertical section would they? They would not be as effective there as being installed on a vertical surface.

Hmmm I could always install them partly on the upper vertical surface and weld an extension onto the tapered portion... I don't want to ugly up the bumper though.
Or should I add them to the tire carrier somehow? Or forget the whole thing?! lol
These are what I was thinking...PT series Tail Lamp
 
Here are the latest pictures...Had to trim the spindle and sleeve because of the tapered bumper.

Still need to install the spindle and partially box the ends while still leaving access for bolts.

Went to a local welding shop the other day, the head guy there said to bring the bumper down so he could check it out, he said it is looking great.

I asked him about welding on the recovery tabs instead of bolting them on, he said there was no problem with that at all, they will be more than strong enough, so that is what I plan to do.

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I made a bit of a boo boo with the sleeve, that is why it looks like it was welded on, on the top section.
I decided to make an attachment point to the crossmember with three bolts, this will be a total of 9, 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts, should be enough. I could use the 3 extra bolt holes on either side under the frame rails to have 6 more bolts but that might be getting a bit crazy? :)
You can see the 3 gussets I added to the centre section today. I don't really plan on doing much else to the centre section, with the slant there things will drain off nicely...
I could add a small strip underneath, not sure it is necessary?

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