2uz VVTI swap, starts and dies

[Tank5]

I have a build thread in the 80 series section where I have been working on a 2uz VVTI out of a 2006 Land Cruiser mated to an H151F transmission swap into my 80. I am posting this here because this is were most of the 2uz cruisers exist.

I sent the harness and ecu off to have a stand alone harness built and delete the immobilizer and auto transmission systems.

I have it all installed but all I can get it to do is start the engine which dies within a second. I am not getting any codes.

I have confirmed it has fuel and the fuel pressure is within spec. The Air Flow Meter is new and I tried it with a second used one. It gets spark to fire the engine, so I am wondering what I am missing. Again I am not getting any codes. I have also gone over the grounds multiple times they are clean, solid and all accounted for.

I have ordered a cable to be be able use Techstream to try and gain more insight but it has not arrived yet.

I have searched the forum but nothing I have found has been the issue.

Any one delt with a similar issue?

 

[Wadepat2]

Who did the harness? Just wondering. I run a standalone with 2uz and h151f also but never had immobilizer. For the auto nothing really needed to be done except jump wire to keep engine thinking it was in neutral if I remember right.
Have you tried keeping it running by holding throttle open or is it ethrottle? Try running with maf unplugged. Techstream sounds like best bet
That's all I got . Following. Hope you get it going. 2uz with h151 is nice setup.

 

[Tank5]

Who did the harness? Just wondering. I run a standalone with 2uz and h151f also but never had immobilizer. For the auto nothing really needed to be done except jump wire to keep engine thinking it was in neutral if I remember right.
Have you tried keeping it running by holding throttle open or is it ethrottle? Try running with maf unplugged. Techstream sounds like best bet
That's all I got . Following. Hope you get it going. 2uz with h151 is nice setup.

Lextreme built the harness.

I have tried keeping it running by pushing the throttle, it does anyway. Fuel is definitely it the issue. The ecu is cutting the spark after it fires.

Did you build your harness or ?

Thanks

 

[Wadepat2]

Shop I used just tapped into stock harness for fuel and spark. Mine is controlled through standalone so easier to see what issue is. My stock ecu only controls gauges now. Sorry wouldn't even know where to start for stock ecu not firing. I assume you could see what's not right on techstream. Will follow and try to help if I can. If it starts smooth wouldn't suspect timing. Sounds like something isn't controlling timing after start. Usually goes from the high rev start then smooths out. Idle rpm controlled by timing since TB stays at almost static idle opening once running.

Hopefully someone else chims in for you with stock ecu and deleted immobilizer. The auto delete shouldn't affect anything if ecu/tech stream shows it's in neutral.
Just some wild guesses from what I have learned on standalone setup and tuning.

 

[clrussell]

Buddy just had this same exact problem.

Unplug your MAF and see what it does.

We did this to his and it ran just fine. Turned out his MAF was installed backwards (square hole in maf should face the air filter)

 

[Tank5]

Buddy just had this same exact problem.

Unplug your MAF and see what it does.

We did this to his and it ran just fine. Turned out his MAF was installed backwards (square hole in maf should face the air filter)

I tried running it with the MAF unplugged before and no change. I am running the MAF in a K&N intake tube to the original 80 filter box. It doesn’t face the the filter either way you install it but I will turn around to see if does anything.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[Tank5]

Shop I used just tapped into stock harness for fuel and spark. Mine is controlled through standalone so easier to see what issue is. My stock ecu only controls gauges now. Sorry wouldn't even know where to start for stock ecu not firing. I assume you could see what's not right on techstream. Will follow and try to help if I can. If it starts smooth wouldn't suspect timing. Sounds like something isn't controlling timing after start. Usually goes from the high rev start then smooths out. Idle rpm controlled by timing since TB stays at almost static idle opening once running.

Hopefully someone else chims in for you with stock ecu and deleted immobilizer. The auto delete shouldn't affect anything if ecu/tech stream shows it's in neutral.
Just some wild guesses from what I have learned on standalone setup and tuning.

The engine fires right up when it starts and sounds strong. I really doubt timing is issue which is why I have not taken the front apart to check it out. If the ecu is changing timing then I won’t know until I can see more with the TS.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[Wadepat2]

The engine fires right up when it stRts and sounds strong. I really doubt timing is issue which is why I have not taken the front apart to check it out. If the ecu is changing timing then I won’t know until I can see more with the TS.

Thanks for the ideas.

I agree sounds like your on the right track. Sounds like after start sequence the transition to idle has a hiccup.

 

[hoser]

I tried running it with the MAF unplugged before and no change. I am running the MAF in a K&N intake tube to the original 80 filter box. It doesn’t face the the filter either way you install it but I will turn around to see if does anything.

I have not looked at the difference tool closely but I know the 06-07 MAF is different than earlier years. So if you are using a pre-06 MAF, it might not be compatible.

 

[Tank5]

I have not looked at the difference tool closely but I know the 06-07 MAF is different than earlier years. So if you are using a pre-06 MAF, it might not be compatible.

The MAF I am using was ordered new from Toyota based on the vin from the vehicle the motor came from. I do have another MAF on hand that was used with a different part number, I tried it as well. No change.

 

[J1000]

Can you tell if the fuel pump turns off or the injectors turn off when it dies? Perhaps the way it's wired the fuel pump comes on when cranking but not when the key is in the run position.

 

[Tank5]

Can you tell if the fuel pump turns off or the injectors turn off when it dies? Perhaps the way it's wired the fuel pump comes on when cranking but not when the key is in the run position.

The fuel pressure holds the entire time starting and during its short duration of starting per the fuel pressure gauge. I also tested it by bypassing the ecu and running the fuel pump directly so it was running the whole time. No change.

One last test I did was spray some starter fluid through the intake to try to keep it going after it started, it had no effect. Something is shutting down the power to the coils, so no spark.

 

[J1000]

The fuel pressure holds the entire time starting and during its short duration of starting per the fuel pressure gauge. I also tested it by bypassing the ecu and running the fuel pump directly so it was running the whole time. No change.

One last test I did was spray some starter fluid through the intake to try to keep it going after it started, it had no effect. Something is shutting down the power to the coils, so no spark.

Sounds like an immobilizer problem, I'd reach out to Lextreme and see if they have any input.

 

[Tank5]

Sounds like an immobilizer problem, I'd reach out to Lextreme and see if they have any input.

I have but he has been unresponsive for several weeks now. He may have been impacted by the hurricane, so I am trying to patiently wait for him to get back to me but trying to sort out all possibilities on my end while I wait.

I agree it seems like an immobilizer ecu issue.

 

[Tank5]

My Techstream software and cable finally arrived. I got it all installed and was able to use it today. I am obviously a novice with the TIS software but so far the only faults I am seeing are for low voltage on the MAF and Crank Sensor Circuits, it is showing 10.2 volts. I have confirmed that the ECU is receiving 12.1 volts and the stand alone relay box for the harness is receiving 12.4 volts. I expect that there is something damaged within the harness or ecu that is preventing the two circuits from receiving the voltage needed to operate.

Looking at the wiring diagram I do not see that the MAF and CS are interconnected at all, so I don't know. I reached out to the vender that built the harness and am waiting for their response.