2UZ-FE swap - what to replace (1 Viewer)

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May 3, 2019
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Location
Kansas City, MO
Hey guys, I recently picked up a 2005 with 300k miles and constant ticking from the top end... previous owner thinks he hydro locked it when cleaning out the valley. I ended up finding an engine/transmission with under 150k miles and decided to just swap the engines rather than diagnose what is probably a bent valve. This is my 3rd vehicle with a 2uz, so I have some familiarity, but am looking for input on what to replace while I have the engine on the stand. Here is what I am thinking of right now:

  1. Valve Cover Gasket
  2. Valve Stem Seals
  3. Intake Manifold Gasket
  4. Exhaust Manifold Gasket
  5. Front main seal
  6. rear main seal
  7. O-rings
  8. starter
  9. motor mounts
  10. timing belt/water pump
  11. Oil pan seals
The gasket kit I'm looking at comes with head gaskets and cam seals... I've done cam seals on a VVTI before and will most likely replace them on this engine. Since I will have the cams out and access to the head bolts, what is the risk / value of replacing the head gasket while I'm in there? is there much surface prep needed after removing the old head gaskets?
 
I don't really know about head gaskets, but I wouldn't bother with it, considering how long they consistently last on these vehicles. I would also look into header gaskets and the headers themselves while the engine is out.
 
I'd probably leave the heads alone if it was my rig. The "proper" way to clean up the heads is to take them to a machine shop and get them decked, valve job (if needed), have the valve clearances reset, and install new valve seals. It seems that 2UZs infrequently have problems with head gaskets and valves, but these engines are getting up there in age.

Last time I had this done for a set of 16-valve SOHC Subaru heads, it was around $450, at the best machine shop in the St. Louis area. I'm betting a set of 2UZ heads would be around $1K or more since they are 32 valve DOHC heads, and valve clearance is set with shims and buckets under the cams, as opposed to the SOHC Subaru heads where valve clearance is set with threaded adjusters that are on the rocker arms and super-easy to get to. I wouldn't pull the heads off your motor unless you are going to run them to the machine shop - BUT if you are invested in the rig, it could be money well spent.

You'd of course still have to clean the block surface carefully. I've never done this on a UZ but on aluminum Subaru blocks I've cleaned the block with 2,000 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Not trying to remove material - just get crap off of the deck that doesn't come off with solvent cleaners and rags, while making sure you don't drop crap into the bores. On the Subie motors I've done this by having the engine on a stand and the engine turned where the deck is vertical (so the crap falls on the ground).

I would also use this as an opportunity to replace the likely-cracked OEM exhaust manifolds with a set of headers, if Doug Thorley has them in stock.
 
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