2UZ-FE non VVIT Timing Belt Snap (1 Viewer)

[100lcaus]

This isn’t a discussion or question or poll but more of an experience so unsure if I am posting this right, but I thought I would share my recent personal experience as it may be relevant to someone else.

I live in AUS and have a 2006 100 series LC with 440K km’s (273K miles) on the odo with a 2UZ-FE non VVTI motor. The timing belt was changed at 330K km’s (205K miles) when I bought it. It recently snapped when doing about 40km/h (25 miles/h) on a dirt road. Motor was probably doing between 1100 - 1300 RPM at the time. Came as a shock as 40K km’s (25 miles) short of the 150K km’s (90K miles) interval but in all honestly the last 100K km’s (62K miles) has been very hard work for it. I bought it to use and have fun in and well and truly accomplished that mission. Mud/water crossings, beach and sand, heaps of dirt, dust, mud and everything else. But have never scrimped on servicing and always fixed whatever was needed. Have towed camper/trailer but no caravans and always thoroughly clean it after each adventure.

Got told head would definitely be damaged and to prepare for it. Apparently all 2uz-fe's are interference motors. Spoke to multiple sources including official ones and became convinced that it was damaged. Only places I got any hope were this forum and the two engine recon places here in my town. Neither of the businesses had ever seen valve damage on heads from this motor. I was able to rotate both cams freely with no hinderance or noise but apparently that’s not really a reliable guide.

Anyway, long story short, decided to start with trying a new belt and it started with no issues. So, I can say if the engine speed at the time of break and engine type are the same as mine, you have some hope!

 

[willyroo]

timing belt

Mate had a non genuine timing belt snap in his UZJ200 at around 90ks since last change, that is the VVT-i version of the 2UZ. It crashed the heads so rebuild needed.

I also asked him about water pump replacement, idler pulleys, tensioners etc - apparently none of those were done when the belt was changed.

Oh also - welcome

 

[NE Snowman]

OEM replacement? Hard to believe it was, Bull posted his 300k belt recently, or idlers worn causing friction? My first 4R 2uz vvti had 191k on the OG belt as well.

 

[100lcaus]

Mate had a non genuine timing belt snap in his UZJ200 at around 90ks since last change, that is the VVT-i version of the 2UZ. It crashed the heads so rebuild needed.

I also asked him about water pump replacement, idler pulleys, tensioners etc - apparently none of those were done when the belt was changed.

Oh also - welcome

It was non-genuine. I replaced everything. Thanks for welcome!

 

[100lcaus]

OEM replacement? Hard to believe it was, Bull posted his 300k belt recently, or idlers worn causing friction? My first 4R 2uz vvti had 191k on the OG belt as well.

Yeah was non genuine. Idlers looked fine but replaced everything anyway.

 

[100lcaus]

Do you think you could classify the non vvti as low interference and the vvti as high interference? I read someone say something similar to that and seemed like a logical way to view it.

 

[jsloden]

I believe toyota listed them all as interference engines even though I've never seen or spoken with anyone who actually damaged anything when the belt snapped on a non-vvti engine. The vvti engine is a different story though. If the belt snaps on that one your going to have a bad day.

 

[NE Snowman]

Yeah was non genuine. Idlers looked fine but replaced everything anyway.

I say “buy once, cry once” Toyota parts or bust imo. Especially with the LC.

 

[Rhetoric]

Anecdotal thoughts here, but in the TDI world people snap belts or other timing belt components fail. Some think they get away unscathed until X thousands of miles later a valve or two drop and do mega damage.

What happens on those engines is the valves will bend during contact, and in some cases they bend back straight. They seem to be fine for a while but they eventually fail.

Not saying thats how the nonVVTi 2UZ is, but why would Mr T call it interference? Perhaps it is indeed interference-lite?

Life is full of mysteries. But one thing that isnt a mystery for me: My wife would have my head if my LX died on the side of the road with my family in it from a failure that could have been easily prevented.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Do you think you could classify the non vvti as low interference and the vvti as high interference? I read someone say something similar to that and seemed like a logical way to view it.

No, non-VVT is non interference, literally hundreds of data points, one more here. Why Toyota labeled it interference is a mystery. Some people just seem to assume that they have credibility. But all car manufacturers screw up now and then, Toyota no exception.

 

[Rhetoric]

No, non-VVT is non interference, literally hundreds of data points, one more here. Why Toyota labeled it interference is a mystery. Some people just seem to assume that they have credibility. But all car manufacturers screw up now and then, Toyota no exception.

I am merely offering an alternative thought here. But I always appreciate dismissive responses that say there is data with no data.

Please share all the data points. In detail. Tables and graphs are nice to see. In fact, if you have a translucent 2UZ that we can watch run without a belt when cold and warmed up, that would be perfect.

Thanks so much.

 

[baltistyle]

Yeah was non genuine. Idlers looked fine but replaced everything anyway.

Hopefully that lesson made you use oem parts this time? The prices are not that different for the quality and assurance you will receive. Glad you made it through with little to no damage.

 

[97 AZ LC]

I am merely offering an alternative thought here. But I always appreciate dismissive responses that say there is data with no data.

Please share all the data points. In detail. Tables and graphs are nice to see. In fact, if you have a translucent 2UZ that we can watch run without a belt when cold and warmed up, that would be perfect.

Thanks so much.

The data points are threads in multiple forums for 4Runner, Land Cruiser, LX470, Sequoia and Tundra with the 2UZ-FE over a period of a couple of decades. The way to prove interference is to find even a single credible documented case of interference with a timing belt failure in one of these forums - because the cases of non-interference are literally everywhere.

 

[NE Snowman]

I agree with others saying non vvti is non interference. After hanging out between multiple forums(for the last 9 years) I’ve yet to see any non-vvti engine have damage after a belt break. Coming from the world of VW timing belts you see many posts about engine damage.

Between this, cam seals and SAIP system it was the selling point for me picking an 03-05 LC. The added complexity is not worth the minor HP and price difference stepping up to 06/07s.

 

[100lcaus]

Anecdotal thoughts here, but in the TDI world people snap belts or other timing belt components fail. Some think they get away unscathed until X thousands of miles later a valve or two drop and do mega damage.

What happens on those engines is the valves will bend during contact, and in some cases they bend back straight. They seem to be fine for a while but they eventually fail.

Not saying thats how the nonVVTi 2UZ is, but why would Mr T call it interference? Perhaps it is indeed interference-lite?

Life is full of mysteries. But one thing that isnt a mystery for me: My wife would have my head if my LX died on the side of the road with my family in it from a failure that could have been easily prevented.

I kind of wondered the same thing. Would a compression test show any damage? I mean surely even the most minor valve damage would show up in the compression readings yeah? The sound is the same and no difference in performance. I have been undecided whether its time to upgrade to a 200 but I really struggle to fault this cruiser and many people I know lament selling their 100 series after they go to the 200. Plus, pretty much everything that has broken has been my fault from sheer extremes of use. This is the only thing that is borderline but could also be explained through a non genuine part and its last 100k of experience.

I did see a case somewhere on another website/forum, but have not been able to find it again, where the person had valve damage but apparently it broke at very high RPM.