2L-T motor rebuild

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AZtoOR

AZtoOR

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Sep 14, 2008
Threads
9
Messages
94
Location
Bend, OR
Hello There everyone,

I am in the process of rebuilding my 1985 toyota diesel pickup with a 2L-t motor in it. It sucked a valve seat and ruined one piston and scared up the cylinder a little. The cylinder needs to be sleeved or bored out. I don't want to sleeve it but also don't want to bore it out and replace pistons that I can't even find. Also the head needs to be replaced. The rest of the vehicle is mechanically great so don't want to waste a perfect chassy. Any body replaced or rebuilt one of these and have some recommendations on the best way to rebuild with out spending a fortune? Anyone know where to find parts for this engine? Or know of used or rebuilt ones for sale?

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
4 Wheel Auto Wholesale -LANDCRUISER PARTS can get them. The rebuild kit is about $1,300 CDN (pistons, bearings, gaskets, etc.). A new head is ~$800USD, that's a bare head, no valves or anything. A new rebuilt head will run about $1,200. So, between the rebuild kit, the head, and machinework you'll be into it ~$3,500.

My sincerest advice? Toss that turd, keep the turbo and relpace it with a 3L and put the turbo on it. For about the same price as rebuilding you'll get a bigger and more reliable engine than the 2LT. Same block, will bolt right up to your existing transmission and motor mounts. In fact, I have a spare 2LTE exhaust manifold kicking around you can have for cheap.

I've been down this road, my rebuilt 2LT crapped out, now been replaced with the 3L+turbo. Anything starting with "2L", run away.
Got mine from these guys: JDM Used Toyota 3L Diesel Engine for Pickup, 4 Runner:eBay Motors (item 270472635677 end time Oct-26-09 11:49:59 PDT)
 
What all is involved in the swap to a 3L? Is it pretty easy for a first time swapper? I am pretty good mechanically but the only engine rebuild I have done is a 22R and that was 10 years ago.
 
Same block, bolts in pretty much the same as the 2LT. You will probably need a flywheel and clutch, as the used engines are usually from an automatic transmission. Other than that, easy as can be. The only other thing is that you might need to swap oil pans with your 2LT. The 2WD and 4WD pans are different, don't worry, the bolt pattern is the same as the 2LT pan. The 3L is basically a 2LT bored and stroked differently, and with a bigger, thicker head with a bucket & shim style valvetrain.
Mustang Connection - 1965 - 1973 Mustang Specialists and Foreign Car Importer also stocks lots of L engine parts. They'll have a 3L flywheel and timing kit for you, likely in stock.
 
How about the wiring and electronics. How deep does that go? Do I just use all the intake and exhaust off the 2L-T onto the 3L or just use all the 3L parts? Just wondering if all I need is a 3L long block then reuse all my 2L-T parts and hook all the wires back up?

Thanks Chang-kuao-lo for all the information.
 
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Pretty much all the 2LT gear bolted on to the 3L, with some minor mods here and there. The biggest thing is the exhaust manifold and 2WD to 4WD oil pan. The GP system is wired a hair differently on the 3L, all I did was bypass the superglow timer and just wire it direct from the battery to the #1 solenoid with a interruptor switch on the ground side of the relay ("wilson" switch). Other than that, it's just the fuel cut solenoid, the alternator and oil/temp senders, and you're good to go. The wiring is nearly identical. Thr brackets for the power steering, A/C and alternator are set up a bit differently. If your rig already had P/S and A/C, it should all fit. The engine I got was very complete. Between the 3L longblock, and the 2LT you already have, you won't need much else.

Most of the air ducts should fit for the intake and turbo, I did have to make some modifications, but I also have a top mout intercooler. One would have to put a fitting on the side of the oil pan for the turbo oil return. I was fortunate that the 3L I got already had an oil-level sensor on the pan, which I reamed out and attached an elbow to. I just bought this kit to turbo the 3B: TOYOTA LandCruiser 4.2L Diesel Turbo Oil Water line kit:eBay Motors (item 380163343392 end time Oct-29-09 07:16:24 PDT) , it hasn't arrived yet, so I can't attest to its' quality just yet.

The next thing I'm going to try is putting the 2LT injector pump and injectors on the 3L to take advantage of the boost compensator. Even without it, 800# in the back and mine will bust loose around corners if I walk on it.

link to pics: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...-toyota-4-cylinder-turbo-diesel-advice-4.html

It was an easy swap, and didn't cost me any more than a (second :mad: ) rebuild on the 2LT.
 
So the engine you sent with a link to on ebay for $2700 is that a decent price for a 3L? It just sounds to easy, which is great. I was reading the thread on how to turbo the 3L step by step on some 4wheel.ca site. Seemed pretty easy. Also would I even need a new flywheel for the 5 speed? or would the 2L-T one mate up onto the 3L since they are so similar.

Let me know how the turbo works on the 3B as I would love to do the same to mine.

Also on the wilson switch I was about to put one on the BJ got the switch and all I need to do is wire it between the "on" wire to the "glow" wire and thats it right?
 
The flywheels are different, the 2LT has 6 bolt holes, while the 3L has 8. So, a new flywheel is in order, but the clutch is the same. However, some have "filled in" the 6 holes and machined out 8, probably not worth the trouble.

That's the same outfit that I bought my 3L from, I paid $2,800+ship, seemed a fair deal. The engine was complete as pictured, very clean, and passed a leak-down test. I replaced:
timing kit
front and rear main seals
camshaft seal
pilot bearing
before installing the turbo/manifold.
I have seen the same writeup, the only problem I could see with that one is his turbo oil return line seems too restrictive. Other than that, mine's done up the same basic way. Like I said, it's an easy swap, same block. Barry (mustang connection) should have just about everything you need in stock. 4wheel might have a lot of this stuff too, but the 3L was never used in the 'cruiser platform.
Just do a search on the 3B turbo, many have done it here and all seem pleased with the results.
My "wilson" switch is wired:
Main hot wire from the battery +, through relay #1 to the GP bus.
The other circuit, that "trips" the relay, is wired direct to the battery +, and has a momentary switch interrupting the ground. Hit the switch, relay is grounded and energizes the GPs. Gives you the option of doing multiple glows without cycling the key.
 
You talked me into the 3L move. Now I just need to save my money. I will let you know when I pull the trigger as I am sure I will have to pick your brain again if you are alright with that.

As for the 3B turbo not going to happen anytime soon either. Don't even have the buck for the 3L right now.

As for the wilson switch I am still a little confused as to which wires the switch interrupts. :confused: The switch just interrupts the ground for the "trip" relay on yours? My BJ42 is a 12V New Zealand model with manuel glow. Not sure if you have the same setup. I thought I just spliced from my ignition "on" wire to my "glow" wire from a diagram I found on mud. I am so confused on all the different stuff I have read on the subject.:bang: It sounds so easy but just can't get the picture through my thick skull.

Thanks again.
 
I too have a BJ42 from NZ, it is already pretty much the same as a wilson switch. You turn the key backward, right? If so, why bother? It's already a manual system.
Here's how I wired it on the pickup:
(btw, opting for a cooler 82°C thermostat is a good idea too.)
wilson.webp
 
I want to put the switch on the BJ42 for cold starts in winter I can give it more glow when it is running on start up. It fires up great until the plugs cool then it starts to blow white smoke until it warms up. Is the wiring the same for the BJ as what you showed in the diagram? The cooler thermo would help it warm up quick probably to. What is the stock temp for the thermostat?
 
I was just looking at that myself, and considered the same thing at one point. The KZT is doable, but involves relocating motor mounts, and possibly shortening the driveshaft, and relocating the transmission mount crossmember. That, and a KZ to W, G, or R transmission bellhousing is like hen's teeth (not that they can't be had). From an "ease of installation" standpoint, the 3L is a slam-dunk, and has a much better reliability track record than the 2LT(E). However, with a complete front-clip, one would have almost everything he needed to to a pretty tidy swap, with a fair bit of work, and a wee bit of headache. I really wanted to do a 3.0l 1KD-T, but it was too cost prohibitive :frown: . And might be a nightmare to get serviced here in the US, being that it is a JDM common rail engine.

I'm thinkin' for when I bag this engine, I'm going to do a Buick grand national engine on an Audi quattro drivetrain...
 
For cold weather starts, 12V glow plugs on a manual swtich and a Dodge Cummins grid heater sitting in the front of the intake manifold are the way to go. I've started it down to -10 F with just the grid heater (on a separate push button switch), but will combine both starting aids to a single switch eventually. Both take about 10 seconds fully warm up. Cold weather start concerns are a thing of the past.

I did a write up on the Toyota Diesel forums a few years back.

Here are some teaser pics of my latest project. - ToyotaDiesel.com

Adam R.
 
So I found a early 90's 2L-T motor with low miles out of a hilux pickup for $1500 and that includes shipping. It was out of a automatic the flywheel has 8 bolts and mine was is a manual with 6 bolts. Would this engine drop into my pickup?

I would like to go the 3L route but can't pull the money out right now. But could afford the $1500 though for a direct drop in. Anybody know if this engine would work in my truck please let me know.
 
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