2H starting issue (3 Viewers)

[Biche]

Hello,

I've got a, new to me, HJ60 with the 2H engine (24volts). PO told me that it needed some new glow plugs, which I did install last night. It started like a brand new LC...

This morning, I tried to start it without success. I'm pretty pissed because it's seating in my driveway for 2 weeks and I cannot enjoy the ride.

Tonight I will have someone help me figure out what voltage are sent to the glow plugs(and bus bar).

Beside of that, knowing it's a 24 volts, 14 volts plugs and a manual glowing button installed, what should I check furthermore? How many time should I push the glow button to make it work? Can too much glow can ruin something?

Thank you

 

[lostmarbles]

Hello,

I've got a, new to me, HJ60 with the 2H engine (24volts). PO told me that it needed some new glow plugs, which I did install last night. It started like a brand new LC...

This morning, I tried to start it without success. I'm pretty pissed because it's seating in my driveway for 2 weeks and I cannot enjoy the ride.

Tonight I will have someone help me figure out what voltage are sent to the glow plugs(and bus bar).

Beside of that, knowing it's a 24 volts, 14 volts plugs and a manual glowing button installed, what should I check furthermore? How many time should I push the glow button to make it work? Can too much glow can ruin something?

Thank you

So ....You have a 24V cruiser.... 14V glowplugs ....and you have modified wiring that achieves MANUAL glow control.

Recipe for trouble don't you think Biche?

How is the "manual control" wired up? (Does it apply 24V to your 14V plugs for as long as you hold the manual control button/switch down?)

Edit: It sounds to me like you're already suspicious of the same thing that I am .... that is, that you've frizzled your new plugs.

 

[Biche]

Yep maybe, as I stated, it's been in my driveway only for 2 weeks... and I'm new in the diesel world.

So, if it send 24 volts to the plugs, what can I do to solve this? I'm waiting an helper to push the button with me measuring.

thanks,

 

[Radd Cruisers]

You need 20.5V glow plugs for manual glow.

14V glow plugs will light in about 4 - 6 seconds, and if you go too long with the glow you they will burn out rapidly.


~John

 

[Biche]

I didn't check yet, but if I understand right, 20.5V won't burn even if we apply 24V?

Thanks, this will be a costly experience...:whoops:

 

[Biche]

This is going to be a real newbie question, be aware!

Using my multimeter, I've put the ground cable to the ground of my battery, the other on one of my plugs, what is the voltage that I should be reading? I always got 24V...

In fact, beside doing the continuity tests, what should I check?

Thanks,

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

This is going to be a real newbie question, be aware!

Using my multimeter, I've put the ground cable to the ground of my battery, the other on one of my plugs, what is the voltage that I should be reading? I always got 24V...

In fact, beside doing the continuity tests, what should I check?

Thanks,

without engaging the glow circuit? If that is true then your plugs are always hot and will burn out in no time. check the bar connecting the glow plugs to a different ground (engine). If you get 24V without pushing the glow button your wiring is faulty and you are dangerously close to lighting up your truck.
cheers,
Jan

 

[lostmarbles]

If your modified glow circuit wiring allows you to apply 24V to your glowplug busbar for however long you hold down the "glow button" (or glow-switch or whatever you've got there) ... then you should be running higher-voltage plugs than 14 volt (and those 14V plugs are likely to be toast).

Previously I would have advised fitting 20.5V plugs (which should still work fine) but I now think 23V plugs would be even better.

(I've just been doing some research on B/H engine plugs which has changed my thinking a bit.)

Have a squizz at this thread which is full of part numbers (if you can read them LOL):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...gs-should-i-running-b-2b-3b-h-2h-diesels.html

 

[Biche]

I'm going to check all the connections prior of buying any more GP, theses things are not cheap.

Thanks for the answers (quick and mostly complete).

I'll keep you posted.

 

[Biche]

So today I've verified that I still got 24V... verified... I decided to remove the bus bar (without the key in the ignition) and it sparked. Something have went bad (or good) because I do not have any voltage anymore from the bus bar.

I didn't find any schematics on how to install a Wilson Switch, does it even exist or something close?

This time I took some pictures:

This is where my switch is connected, don't know if it's good or not:

Conencted to the 24volts through a 15a fuse:

I discovered that the electric on the truck have been "customized" as you can see above and below(some stuff are not plugged and dont mind the arrows):

 

[lostmarbles]

So you really did have voltage on your busbar PERMANENTLY (even with your key turned off and removed) Biche!

Sounds like the points in your glowplug relay were welded closed. (Which could well happen if the PO installed a relay that he/she sized for the lower current of say ...23V plugs and you mistakenly fitted 14V plugs.)

And if the busbar "sparked to something" when you were removing it, you've probably now blown a fusible link (or fuse or whatever the PO has fitted) as well.

The term "Wilson Switch" is one I dislike because there are various ways of wiring in the "momentary switches" that are used to manually-control glow circuitry. And when people say "Wilson Switch" they most commonly refer to the setup where full-battery voltage is applied to the busbar yet the setup may actually supply "a reduced voltage" there depending on how the momentary switch is wired into the OEM wiring (and depending on vehicle model, PO whim, etc etc).

My first steps would be to find out why the power to your busbar wasn't switching off and what damage (if any) was done by the sparking/short-circuit event.

Then, once you've got the PO's modified circuitry working the way he/she intended (and provided it is reliable/satisfactory) .... I'd look at getting new plugs to match it.



PS. You can test the plugs in there now (which I still feel are likely to be "toast") with a multimeter once the busbar is removed. (Plugs that show "no-continuity" between the terminal-connection and the engine-block are blown.)

 

[Biche]

Then, once you've got the PO's modified circuitry working the way he/she intended (and provided it is reliable/satisfactory) .... I'd look at getting new plugs to match it.

I'm not sure the way it was modified was really reliable... The plugs were already toasted when I bought the truck.

PS. You can test the plugs in there now (which I still feel are likely to be "toast") with a multimeter once the busbar is removed. (Plugs that show "no-continuity" between the terminal-connection and the engine-block are blown.)

Yes, the brand new plugs are toasted...

Do you know any implementation of the momentary switchs that I can refer that can help me found out what the PO owner tried to accomplish?

 

[lostmarbles]

I'm not sure the way it was modified was really reliable... The plugs were already toasted when I bought the truck.

Yes, the brand new plugs are toasted...

Do you know any implementation of the momentary switchs that I can refer that can help me found out what the PO owner tried to accomplish?

Unfortunately I'm not really familiar with the HJ60 model and have no wiring diagrams in my possession for it. Perhaps someone else can help here.

With that manual switch, I think your previous owner may have decided to supply 24V directly to the glowplug busbar (in which case I'd fit 23volt glowplugs as I've said in that thread I referred to). Or if he/she has that manual switch connected to feed the busbar reduced voltage via a resistor (that could well have been part of the original OEM system) then 14V plugs may be more appropriate .... but then such a manual operation would involve risk if continued for too long ... so I would deem such a PO-mod "unreliable" in that case.).