22r HEAD shopping

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Joined
Jan 13, 2009
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First off, thanks to the guys that replied to my other thread.

I need to hear pro's and con's on the following options I'm struggling with.

This engine is for an '85 4x4 with a 22r:

Get original block bored and buy new piston heads and rings and new head. The head from this engine had two small cracks that couldn't be ground out due to how close the would be to getting into the valve seats.

or

Try to fix the engine that is in the '83 (22r also). It has low compression in the 4th cylinder (headgasket, I hope?). Take the hopefully fixed engine from the '83 and put it into the '85.

I'm not in a bind to get this done so I can't decide if I want to save up more money to get a new head (most likely from Engnbldr) or wait it out to see if I can find a good head from someone that may have done a non-Toyota engine swap.

What are the chances of even getting a used head that is going to not be trashed also?

I'm not going to use this truck for hardcore off road work but I do want it to be put back together so it is reliable and not going to have fits with it forever. I don't want to have it shoot craps on me for a rookie mistake that I might make now.

Thanks again for any experience based advice you guys can give me,

Hoss
 
The cylinders have some spotty rust in them and he doesn't think just a hone will do the job. That was what I was counting on at first but it didn't pan out. I will pm Cruiser, thank you for replying.

Take care, Hoss
 
Spotty rust? That makes no sence at all. If it was cracked or scarred real bad then that would require boring /sleeving............but spot rust? You get spot rust just from it sitting with a bad head gasket where the water /antifreeze got in.

I think you need a second o. on the block. I will let you know how the head tonight.:cheers:
 
By spotty rust I mean the whole cylinder is not orange and rough. The rust is only in some spots. I guess he means he doesn't know if a hone job will take off enough metal to get the "depth" of the rust out. Thanks for checking on the head for me.

Take care, Hoss
 
still crazy you know i drove up to your place on that engine and i t is still running fine. and i did not even pull the pistons.
 
But LC E. says the deck heights are diffrent? I just dont want to take the chance. If it was me buying it that would be diffrent.
still crazy you know i drove up to your place on that engine and i t is still running fine. and i did not even pull the pistons.
 
also you could get into the other engine and find the same thing. so i would say know what is going on inside that other engine before you decide. it is hard for us to answer that question because we can not see or diagnose what the problem is .
 
By spotty rust I mean the whole cylinder is not orange and rough. The rust is only in some spots. I guess he means he doesn't know if a hone job will take off enough metal to get the "depth" of the rust out. Thanks for checking on the head for me.

Take care, Hoss
by honing the cylinder walls, you are really not trying to remove a lot of metal, you are trying to score the walls (make a rough surface) so the new rings will seal.
 
here is a pic of before i cleaned it up
toy4xfun-albums-86-22re-rebuild-picture9145-mytruck-038.jpg

and here is a pick after i cleaned it up no honing and i did not pull the pistons .
toy4xfun-albums-86-22re-rebuild-picture9156-mytruck-048.jpg
 
i cleaned that cylinder wall up with a scotch brite pad and then vacuumed the stuff out. i then cleaned and wiped all of them out with cleaner and then hit it with compressed air. and if you looked at my thread you would have seen some other pics that show the stop leak, oil, and antifreeze mix in the block i flushed it for two hours using a brush to get down between the cylinders. and it has been running fine.
 

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