2018 LC200 recommendations for lift/suspension and tire size (1 Viewer)

[jlove703]

Hey all, first timer here. I am looking into purchasing a 2018 LC200 but want to include on the invoice a lift/suspension wheels and tires. I know what tires and wheels I like, but don't know enough about the appropriate lift/suspension kit and what tire size. I won't take this offroad for any true offroading, however will drive on the surf fishing beach every summer. I've been looking at pictures of LC200s on 35s and lifted, but would love some recommendations. In a perfect world, I'd fit in most 7' garages since this would be my daily driver. What I've heard so far from a friend who's owned multiple LCs is Dobinsons lift/suspension kit. Any help is appreciated.

 

[RET2]

 

[MRego]

I won't take this offroad for any true offroading,

Based on this, my suggestion is NONE. The most you should do IMO is to fit the OEM strut spacers to level the truck and invest in some good sliders for protection.

 

[jwmNC]

I have a 2016 and at about 100,000 miles the suspension was starting to feel tired, with more lean in corners, and rebounds weren't as clean after bumps. I went with Dobinson's IMS setup with minimal lift, slightly more in the front but still maintained some rake for towing and loads. It is slightly stiffer, much more controlled handling and still quite comfortable on road as well as off. I'm 90% on road so I went with Michelin Defender LTX tires in 285/70r17 on some rock warrior wheels.

- C59-540B springs in front (1" lift)
- IMS59-60688 in front
- OME medium load springs in the rear (.75" lift) - less stiff than the comparable Dobinson option available at the time
- IMS59-60682 in rear

 

[TeCKis300]

Based on this, my suggestion is NONE. The most you should do IMO is to fit the OEM strut spacers to level the truck and invest in some good sliders for protection.

This. So much this.

The worst thing you can do is get an aggressive suspension lift. That in itself ruins the fine tuning of the stock rig, but also puts the suspension geometry outside of its sweet spot. And you're not using it off-road which won't glean any of the benefits of this type of "upgrade", while suffering all the compromises.

Do an OEM+ style lift with mild spacer lift up front, possibly a mild spacer in the rear. Spacers get a bad rap, and can definitely be done wrong when taken too far, but for a mild lift they keep all the goodness of OEM. Bilstein shock upgrades are also another great alternative as they incorporate adjustable perches for lift, while also giving a bit more sporty tuning.

Pair that with a more aggressive tire for real lift and aesthetics. Possibly a 32.8" tire like that which was approved for factory fitment in the early model years. Like a 285/65R18 at 32.6" tall.

Don't get the wheel offset wrong. That's a newbie mistake that will ruin the handling and drivability of the rig. Ideally something like a +35 offset.

 

[dudemancool1904]

There’s a great thread a few pages deep about people reminiscing when their trucks were stock lol.

I will say the more I drove on stock suspension the more I delay any suspension upgrades. I recently just threw on some E rated 33’s and love the height but am getting used to the ride. I think ultimately I will need bigger shocks for the the type of fast desert stuff I like to do but even then I’m probably gonna go with bilstein 6112/5160 as close to factory height as possible.

 

[jlove703]

I have a 2016 and at about 100,000 miles the suspension was starting to feel tired, with more lean in corners, and rebounds weren't as clean after bumps. I went with Dobinson's IMS setup with minimal lift, slightly more in the front but still maintained some rake for towing and loads. It is slightly stiffer, much more controlled handling and still quite comfortable on road as well as off. I'm 90% on road so I went with Michelin Defender LTX tires in 285/70r17 on some rock warrior wheels.

- C59-540B springs in front (1" lift)
- IMS59-60688 in front
- OME medium load springs in the rear (.75" lift) - less stiff than the comparable Dobinson option available at the time
- IMS59-60682 in rear

Appreciate the info!

 

[devilzdriver]

I have been in a similar issue in regard to my 200 series. I have driven in a few well set up rigs and honestly stock is still sooooo good. I have also seen what these can do stock, and for us its more then enough. I'm focusing on lightening up the truck as much as possible and only key mods (sliders, 12.5 tank, Rockwarrior wheels w/ the OE recommended size but light weight tire). goals simple better grand touring + adventures as 85% of its life its on road.

 

[MRego]

Pair that with a more aggressive tire for real lift and aesthetics. Possibly a 32.8" tire like that which was approved for factory fitment in the early model years. Like a 285/65R18 at 32.6" tall.

Yes. Add this to my list above. OEM spacers in front (maybe some similar aftermarket strut spacers in the back if you are too level, but not if you have an HE 2 row, which already sits very high in the back from the factory), sliders and 285/65/18 KO3s or Michelin Defenders depending on your preference. This is what I have in my 2020 HE and it drives like a dream. I can't do the rubicon (not that I want to) but clears me on 95% of adventures discussed in this forum.

 

[Heckraiser]

I will agree that stock suspension is the best if you don't need the extra ground clearance for off-roading. Rides great, handles well, cheap and easy to maintain (no sending shocks off for rebuild or anything like that). Even the most high-quality aftermarket suspensions come with compromises that make them not as good as the stock setup for general purpose cruising. A stock land cruiser is good for some pretty decent off roading. Some 33" tires will add a little ground clearance without compromising suspension geometry or reliability. Don't change anything until you have run into the limitations of what you've got.

 

[jimoldguy]

You are getting some good advice: keep it as close to stock as possible. I went with TRD wheels off a 2021 Tundra (craigs list) so no offset issues. Screwing with steering geometry on newer vehicles always comes with some unexpected consequences. Twitchy steering, tire wear, plus stress on bearings and seals. It can put you on the road to very expensive repairs. I've had a 40, 60, 62, 80, and now my 200. Worked for an alighnment company years back and it easy to screw up a suspension system. I've had Bilstein's on my 200, but like my Koni's better. 88's would be all you would need. I've got 88's up front and 90's in back and they are great at highway speeds going across Montana and work great going across fields and down fishing trails. I put the factory front spacer in up front which leveled it out somewhat and can still load it up and not have my tail dragging. Put on heavier skid plates after some one boobie trapped a fishing trail. better protection is the way to go. Good luck.