2010 LX about to replace all 4 hydraulic shocks - questions and advice needed

[airdzi]

After replacing rear axle bearings and backing plates it is time to tackle shocks replacement - 2010 LX with 135k miles and some HD towing. I have few questions to been there and done that. I would also be replacing all 4 AHC globes to make it into one AHC fluid swap. New AHC pump was installed last December but I bled the main accumulator only so still plenty of old fluid in the system.

1. Is 3.5 Toyota 2.5 l cans of AHC fluid enough for the job?
2. Should the replacement shocks be prefilled prior to install or mounted dry and I should let the AHC ECU and pump handle the fill?
3 What other suspension components should be done or looked at at the same time? Control arms? Bushings? SwayB? Ball Joints? Springs? Cones? Rubber bump stops or pillows?
4- Rears are PITA with no access and are known to put up a fight - is sawzall the solution or as someone floated idea of cutting access hole from the interior of the car?
5. Can hardware like nuts and bolts be reused or should I consider new hardware considering I’m in the rust belt, keep it under control but war on rust is like war on drugs - type of war you fight but never win?
6 Can I restore proper wheel alignment with markings or new alignment would be necessary?
7. Can I do it all on the lift or some parts like AHC bleeding be done better with wheels on the ground?

Any other tips or tricks I should know about?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

After replacing rear axle bearings and backing plates it is time to tackle shocks replacement - 2010 LX with 135k miles and some HD towing. I have few questions to been there and done that. I would also be replacing all 4 AHC globes to make it into one AHC fluid swap. New AHC pump was installed last December but I bled the main accumulator only so still plenty of old fluid in the system.

1. Is 3.5 Toyota 2.5 l cans of AHC fluid enough for the job?
2. Should the replacement shocks be prefilled prior to install or mounted dry and I should let the AHC ECU and pump handle the fill?
3 What other suspension components should be done or looked at at the same time? Control arms? Bushings? SwayB? Ball Joints? Springs? Cones? Rubber bump stops or pillows?
4- Rears are PITA with no access and are known to put up a fight - is sawzall the solution or as someone floated idea of cutting access hole from the interior of the car?
5. Can hardware like nuts and bolts be reused or should I consider new hardware considering I’m in the rust belt, keep it under control but war on rust is like war on drugs - type of war you fight but never win?
6 Can I restore proper wheel alignment with markings or new alignment would be necessary?
7. Can I do it all on the lift or some parts like AHC bleeding be done better with wheels on the ground?

Any other tips or tricks I should know about?

1.) Yes...should be plenty
2.) No, they should not be prefilled
3.) It's good to inspect all of the parts you've noted. It's best to do so beforehand, so you can replace anything "while you're in there". Control arms are generally more economic than buying just bushings and pressing.
4.) I'd aim to find appropriate tools before cutting holes in the body/floor.
5.) I'd only replace hardware if it's very rusted or worn. A survey in advance of surgery is recommended.
6.) I think a new alignment might be a good idea, but I'm not certain that it will be necessary as no geometry is changing (maybe worn bushings).
7.) I've never bled AHC on a lift...that would be new turf for me. I would replace parts, then bleed with wheels on the ground (level).

 

[slipkid13]

You need to have the weight of the vehicle on the wheels to bleed the AHC system. Raising/lowering the vehicle is part of the bleed procedure. I think that is the only part you can't do on a lift.