2009 starts and then after a second turns off

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Jun 1, 2019
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Location
Pasco, WA
Hopefully I can find some help, I have a 2009 LC and when I hit the ignition button it fires up and then after a second it stops running if I immediately hit the start button again it will crank over trying to start for about seven or eight seconds and then will just start. However if I turn the key off and then repeat the process of trying to start it, I get the same result. I thought at first it was the mass air filter sensor, I bought a can of MAF cleaner and cleaned it off but to no avail. I really don’t want to tear into a fuel pump, and it gave no signs and symptoms before of having any issues. It has 129,000 miles on it. I am hoping that a possibility is a fuel pump relay/fuse? Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks!
 
Welcome to Mud! One possible clue is that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery produces some of those symptoms. Are the battery connections (both ends of the wires) and the main ground connection next to the battery all clean and tight?
 
I had a similar issue, and it took a lot of troubleshooting to figure it out.

In my opinion, systematic diagnosis is the right approach. Get the FSM and start breaking the issue down.

After days of troubleshooting, I found that my issue was a failed fuel pump ECU, but I am not suggesting that is your issue.
 
Welcome to Mud! One possible clue is that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery produces some of those symptoms. Are the battery connections (both ends of the wires) and the main ground connection next to the battery all clean and tight?
I did try amp disconnect the battery and I let it sit for about 3 to 4 minutes and then reconnected, it did the exact same thing. Did you do anything different?
 
Thanks for your input both of you, when you say the fuel pump ECU went out and need to be replaced is that the entire fuel pump system? I looked it up and that is a $700 fuel pump through O’Reilly’s and then it looks like a pain to replace? Or is it some relay switch in the fuse box that you were referring to?
 
Thanks for your input both of you, when you say the fuel pump ECU went out and need to be replaced is that the entire fuel pump system? I looked it up and that is a $700 fuel pump through O’Reilly’s and then it looks like a pain to replace? Or is it some relay switch in the fuse box that you were referring to?
The fuel pump relay is separate from the fuel pump.

On that 2013 land cruiser it was located on top of the frame rail just forward of the rear passenger tire. It is more difficult to access than the fuel pump due to the awkward location and limited working room. I don't have any idea if your year even has the same fueling setup.

To reiterate, I am not suggesting that is the issue you are having.

If you're bored and looking for a read: 2013 dies repeatedly while driving down the road - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2013-dies-repeatedly-while-driving-down-the-road.1157485/post-12558184
 
Sounds like you may have already covered this by disconnecting the battery, but I have had troubles starting sometimes due to bad grounding. Sometimes it’s the simple things and they are somewhat low hanging fruit.
 
I did try amp disconnect the battery and I let it sit for about 3 to 4 minutes and then reconnected, it did the exact same thing. Did you do anything different?
Yes, different. I'm not suggesting disconnecting the battery as a fix. I'm suggesting removing and cleaning and tightening the connections to both battery terminals and the other ends of those wires, paying particular attention to the battery ground cable where it attaches to the chassis. Have you checked the battery voltage to make sure it's ok?
 
Yes, different. I'm not suggesting disconnecting the battery as a fix. I'm suggesting removing and cleaning and tightening the connections to both battery terminals and the other ends of those wires, paying particular attention to the battery ground cable where it attaches to the chassis. Have you checked the battery voltage to make sure it's ok?
Exactly this. Especially if you have the Slee battery cable extensions required for the increased size starting battery. The extensions are very prone to corroding.
 
Called it into the shop, and ended up being the proximity switch in the key fob.
Still relatively new to the intricacies of the 200 series but this is alarming to hear. Sounds like there was nothing being displayed on the center display saying “key not detected”?

Makes me think it would be wise to bring the spare fob during off road adventures and camping trips.
 
Called it into the shop, and ended up being the proximity switch in the key fob.
That's a new one to me. What's a "proximity switch" on a fob? I didn't think individual fob components were serviceable. What was the resolution? Fob replacement? Or is this dealer-speak for a new coin cell battery in the fob?
 

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