1hz custome coolingguy (1 Viewer)

[CamCald85]

Ok removed bonnet risers.

Can't remove thermostat fully or even cut the guts out due to the bypass system.

Already had a look under mine and at 50 mill longer would b stupid close to steering dampner how ever after enough digging have worked out that the Bottom spout on the 79 rad comes out at more of a 45 degree Angel thus will clear and over all the 79 rad is 75 mill longer including steel tank upgrade also extra rows will post exact amount of rows and exact extra capacity when I know.

Fan size is the same will only need to change shroud and overflow bottle.

Now we know it will fit.

Operation radiater reasearch over now the real fun begins with secondary radiater reasearch. So far I have the core the thermo fans the switching for the thermo fans the hose size all worked out still trying to work out what booster pump to run and what thermostat to run

 

[CamCald85]

Ok removed bonnet risers.

Can't remove thermostat fully or even cut the guts out due to the bypass system.

Already had a look under mine and at 50 mill longer would b stupid close to steering dampner how ever after enough digging have worked out that the Bottom spout on the 79 rad comes out at more of a 45 degree Angel thus will clear and over all the 79 rad is 75 mill longer including steel tank upgrade also extra rows will post exact amount of rows and exact extra capacity when I know.

Fan size is the same will only need to change shroud and overflow bottle.

Now we know it will fit.

Operation radiater reasearch over now the real fun begins with secondary radiater reasearch. So far I have the core the thermo fans the switching for the thermo fans the hose size all worked out still trying to work out what booster pump to run and what thermostat to run

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hello all my name is Cameron 1st time on here.

I've joined up because i need some help.

Here is the scenario 1 have a hzj75 series that I stripped to the chassy and completely overhauled ground up ( when my parter gets home I'll get her 2 show me how to put up pics ) I am a mechanic by trade and spent 90k and 5 years building this thing and hellow and behold she runs hot.

I'm sure you have all heard of a 1hz that runs hot and this would have been covered b4 but I assure u I have done everything and can't get a win.

Eng is rebored decked block milled slugs to reset deck height at .005 all turbo grade internals blueprinted ballenced simallar treatment to the head injectors set at 10 bar more crack off pressure and built the pump to suit ( slightly over fuelling but not enough to push temp ) passes tk test passes pressure test. Will b borrowing compression gauge this weekend can't c that being the problem though.

Oil cooler is spotless cooling system is spotless.

Brand new ( when eng was assembled 7000 Kay ago ) gmb water pump new thermostat and replaced it again with a genuine one after 1000 k just to b sure ( tested it to ) dayco fan hub band new then opened drained and replaced hub fluid just to sure ( pulling like a champion ) true flow fan
And a brand new oex radiater then pulled radiater out and had it flow tested all clean.

Wtf.

The problem seems to b ram air but with 7k of bulbar I'm not parting with it.

I have cooked up an idear f how to fix this.

Firstly have heard u can put a 79 series radiater will fit and is a bit bigger is this true if they are longer will it fowl on the steering dampener?

I assume I would also need the shrouding to match.
Will I need a different fan also.

Has anybody done this and how did it go.

Triden do a high flow thermostat 30% more so I might put one in.

Now the next idear would seem a bit crazy to most people but I'm a bit mad so here goes.

I want to put a second radiater behind the cab under the tray 38 mill core with the tanks left and right 3/4 in and out with 2 maridine 8 inch thermo fans 540 cfm each with a Davis Craig electric fan control system.

Quite simply a massive heater core.

Wanting to plumb the 2nd heat exchanger out of the heater lines.
Out of the block at the back through the core and back in to the out her heater line where it dumps the water in behind the thermostat.

I've done this on 2h eng up in the gulf and nt and it works but there is a floor in my dezine it works fine when ur in a hot climate all the time but I live in Roma qld where we get hot summer 45 deg Celsius plus and a cold winter -5 and here lies the problem the 2h I did this to went in to cold once
And it took 1hr to heat up and actually over heated because the eng was trying to run purely on the 2nd system and the thermostat did not open to let the primary system start working.

I have a few idears on how to fix this but it's tricky.

Am thinking about a 2nd thermostat just near the block on the feed to the 2nd core set a say 2 degre higher than the primary so the 2nd system only works when u really need it on a hot day at high speed and massive load.

Am thinking along the lines is an in line thermostat with a 3 mill hole drilled in it to allow a small amount of constant flow.

Now here is where it gets tricky a 3/4 in line thermostat would b no good because with 3/4 lines even when fully open u won't get full flow through the lines.

How big would I need to go b4 I would get the same flow through the lines when fully open as if it wasn't there?

I have thought about running the return back to the main radiater or back to the bottom hose so the main thermostat does all the controlling 4 me but am concerned about water flowin the wrong way hence stick with heater line return.

Unless there is some sort of electric temp control heater tap on the market that I don't know about?

There is more to this as well am wanting to put an electric booster pump on the feed side of the 2nd core to healp the main pump out but trying to figer out what flow rate I want head pressure and so is a bit of a nightmare.

So come on guys help me figer this out pls

WELCOME to MUD .........

 

[roscoFJ73]

All your air should come through the radiator for the best cooling effect.

 

[CamCald85]

Yes the idear of lifting the bonnet at the back was to encourage air flow by letting hot air out used to do this to nissans with good results

 

[roscoFJ73]

Its as much of a case of getting the air in as getting it out. If you obstruct the airflow into the radiator, the air wont want to leave the engine bay. I've always found the big gaps either side of the engine adequate for getting air out.
Ive done a bit of prospecting and exploring around the Gascoyne and Northern Goldfields, never had an overheating problem. I usually sit on 110-120.

 

[CamCald85]

Yes that was the idear of the bonnet chocks to give more room for the air to escape you think I should remove the rubber inner guard flaps

 

[CamCald85]

Yes that was the idear of the bonnet chocks to give more room for the air to escape you think I should remove the rubber inner guard flaps

 

[roscoFJ73]

No, I'm suggesting you increase the airflow by removing obstructions in front of the radiator. If you cant get the air in, its pointless trying to get it out.

 

[CamCald85]

Now for the second heat exchanger the heater feed line is 3/4 of an inch to elinanate constant flow on a cold morning a second thermostat may well serve as a good auto solution to control water movement the average thermostat when fully open has a opening of approx 12 mill with that math how would u work out the area of the thermostat valve ( inside area of the thermostat ) to equal the flow of the 3/4 line as if there was no thermostat.

Brass yourself guys the thermostat math is the first deamon the second is booster pumps