1hdt BEBs (1 Viewer)

[PHIL O]

what is the issue behind the big end bearings of 1hdt engines? this has been bothering me lately. i have been observing oil pressure through our stock gauges and it plays between first line to 1/3 mark. is this normal? how could we detect BEB failure? does this have an audible sound? or one we could only hear through a mechanics stethoscope?

 

[Enigma]

Stock gauges are total crap.

If you have not done your BeB's DO THEM NOW..DO NOT WAIT.

The only sounds you will hear is when they totally fail and blow your engine up.

 

[ForealBoreal]

BEBs get them done.
its like a weight is lifted off your shoulders.
better safe then sorry

 

[roscoFJ73]

what is the issue behind the big end bearings of 1hdt engines? this has been bothering me lately. i have been observing oil pressure through our stock gauges and it plays between first line to 1/3 mark. is this normal? how could we detect BEB failure? does this have an audible sound? or one we could only hear through a mechanics stethoscope?

If your engine is idling,this is where the gauge normally sits.
The only way to be certain you have good oil pressure is to connect a mechanics gauge and do the tests outlined in the FSM.

Bad BEBs will sometimes give off an audible ticking noise at idle. Its believed to be from wear in the BEB as the piston reaches the top of its upward stroke.

 

[tlc81]

beb...

Dont mess around just get them done.
a set of good bearings is only 125-150 bucks (cdn) install maybe 400 bucks, total 500 bucks vrs a motor and possibly turbo rebuild. I have replaced BEB in both 80 series I have owned, both before the truck hit 100,000km. The evidence was minor scarring on #5 bearings that if unchanged eventually would have spun (catastrophic).
Unless you are original owner and can verify proper oil changes every 3500 km there is no sense in taking a chance.


JUST DO IT>

 

[ForealBoreal]

its not hard to do really.
its pretty straight forward if you have a bit of mechanical background.
to this date its the most mechanical thing i have probably done.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Dont mess around just get them done.
a set of good bearings is only 125-150 bucks (cdn) install maybe 400 bucks, total 500 bucks vrs a motor and possibly turbo rebuild.
[...]

JUST DO IT>

ACLs - $85 / set.

Do the rod bolts at the same time along with the oil (10W30) and the oil filter.

~John

 

[83bj60]

Yep, ACL BEBs sell for about $85 in Canada, but he's in the Philippines and since ACLs come from Australia, he'd be much better off ordering direct, it would be much cheaper, heck, it was $35 from the US importer 2 years ago when I changed mine, can't be more than that in the Philippines.

Of course, most of the cost is labour, but it's something someone can do over a couple of days with only minimal tools and the occasional helping hand to turn the engine by hand while you slip the bearings off and on. Essentially, it can be done with minimal resources in any garage that has excellent cleanliness standards.

 

[PHIL O]

Thanks guys. i am new to the diesel forum. i was alarmed to hear a somehow rough bearing noise from my engine at idle. i thought it was one of them external ones like from pulleys or alternator or ps pump or ac compressor until i bumped into this issue about the 1hdt bebs. i havent diagnosed it that extensively yet but i think the beb issue is serious. so i have questions before i could address this beb replacement. i saw this thread where a mudder replaced bebs without pulling off the engine. is it possible to remove the crankshaft without pulling out the engine? i was thinking that if i do the bebs and worse comes to worse, could i just pull off the crankshaft from under? if in case it needs to be machined and main bearings replaced too? my rig has clocked in some 189000 km. how much did your rig clock until you replaced bebs? and some more questions, should we stay away from OEM toyota bearings? is aftermarket better? or has toyota improved their bebs for 1hdt?

 

[Cruisin']

Phil,

Its not a difficult job. You don't have to remove the crank, its just the connecting rod bearings at the crank end. You need to drop the pan, which only involves taking one gusset off between the bottom of the motor and the tranny, and the pan will come right out. Might have to jack the truck up a bit to gain clearance between the motor and the axle, bot nothing else has to come apart. From there you can change the bearings by yourself. Just push each piston up a bit and slide the bearing shell out, and slip the new one in. In stall new rod bolts, torque properly and you're done. It helps to drain the oil the night before so it doesn't drip in your eyes while you're under there. I did the whole job by myself in the driveway in an afternoon.

The problem is with the rod bearings, and I haven't heard of folks having to do the main bearings too, so that shouldn't be an issue. My rig had 115,000km when I did them, and two were VERY bad. Don't delay and do it. Use the ACL bearings, they are supposed to be intall and forget about them.

Hope this helps.

 

[PHIL O]

thanks a lot for the boost cruisin'. i was planning to do it on my own like you suggested. looks pretty straight forward when i read the thread.
when you replaced your cruiser's bebs, you found two that went very bad. i guess it is the 5th and 6th? the question is, if the bearings were bad, what was the condition of the journals? were there scratches left by the bad bearing? or are they indeed bullet proof.
thats what i am worrying about. if in case i have to machine the crankshaft due to bearing damage.
i contacted my parts dealer and asked him about the availability of the ACL bearing here. still awaiting his reply. thanks cruisin and guys, i'll post up as developments arise.

 

[Cruisin']

thanks a lot for the boost cruisin'. i was planning to do it on my own like you suggested. looks pretty straight forward when i read the thread.
when you replaced your cruiser's bebs, you found two that went very bad. i guess it is the 5th and 6th? the question is, if the bearings were bad, what was the condition of the journals? were there scratches left by the bad bearing? or are they indeed bullet proof.
thats what i am worrying about. if in case i have to machine the crankshaft due to bearing damage.
i contacted my parts dealer and asked him about the availability of the ACL bearing here. still awaiting his reply. thanks cruisin and guys, i'll post up as developments arise.

On my truck it was #1 (really nasty) and #4 (just kinda bad) that looked the worst. The journals were flawless. #1 looked and felt just as smooth and shiny as the others where the bearings were still in good shape.

While your parts guy is getting bearings for you, might as well get a set of rod bolts while you're at it. You're already in there, why not just do 'em?

Others that I've talked to have had similar experiences.

As far as doing the job itself, getting the oil pan un-stuck from the bottom of the engine was the hardest part. That Toyota FIPG gasket is good stuff! Probably took me an hour to get it free. Bent the flange at the front of the pan trying to get it off. I straightened it with a pair of pliers and used a little extra FIPG gasket in that area and haven't had a leak in 50,000km.

Good Luck!

 

[Lancimus]

We are looking at putting a 1 HD-T in our FJ40. These threads about the BEBs have us really concerned. Supposing that the bearings and rod bolts are replaced and no significant damage has occurred (or it is repaired), is this a forever ongoing maintenance issue requiring replacement every 75,000 miles or so? Or can they be expected to run troublefree for 250,000 miles as I would expect from a diesel? If the root cause of the bearing failure is the material then it would seem a change to the right stuff would be a permanent fix. If not then there must be something fundamentally wrong with the design of the engine itself.

Thanks, looking for the definitive answer on this.

 

[ForealBoreal]

replacing the bearing should be a permanent fix
its honestly like pretty easy like cruisin said.
Its the most in depth i have ever got into a running engine.
Its more of a pain in the ass having to do it.
But i am sure glad I did. Mine were in really good shape (like they had been changed) not a single pit on mine.
my dads 73 on the other hand. a lot of pitting.
When i convert to Seventyism in a few years i will be changing mine.

 

[tlc81]

Lancimus,
BEB are problems if routine oil changes were not done from original owner(s). Aparantely the coating on the bearings the factory used wears out prematurely with time, when engines are run with bad(old) oil for extended periods of time the potential for bearing scarring and spinning is increased.
When you replace the existing BEB you/mechanic should easily be able to tell extent of any damage already done. Once you change to new bearings (lots of info here on MUD about what ones to purchase) and you do frequent oil changes you should not have any concerns about this engine.

Inspect the original bearings closely for scars and burrs.

This is a bigger engine that the 40 is used to, are you swapping transfer and trasmiss also>? the cross/support bracket on the frame will most likely need to be removed and relocated. Also not sure about shortened drive shaft length posing driveline angle issues.. Should be a sweet set up though. make sure you post lots of pics~!
Good luck

 

[Cruisin']

We are looking at putting a 1 HD-T in our FJ40. These threads about the BEBs have us really concerned. Supposing that the bearings and rod bolts are replaced and no significant damage has occurred (or it is repaired), is this a forever ongoing maintenance issue requiring replacement every 75,000 miles or so? Or can they be expected to run troublefree for 250,000 miles as I would expect from a diesel? If the root cause of the bearing failure is the material then it would seem a change to the right stuff would be a permanent fix. If not then there must be something fundamentally wrong with the design of the engine itself.

Thanks, looking for the definitive answer on this.

When I researched this issue when getting ready to change mine I was told that the original Toyota bearings are a Tin/Aluminum composition, while the ACL bearings that I put in are Copper/Lead. Supposedly this makes it a far superior bearing, and you can forget about it.

My research was about 2 1/2 years ago, so if I'm off on anything someone who is more up on things can correct me...

 

[romey]

my beb's were done at about 75K kms before our long west coast roady (and met up with cruisin' too, hey Jason!)

the marker wore off so it's not in the right order.

report:
"#4 was starting to delamenate.
slight scoring to 3 and 5
no damage to be seen."

the jdm rig arrived in canada with 39K kms, it's been running on full synthetic since and i bought it at 52K kms if anyone cares.

it's piece of mind alright. rod end bolts wouldn't torque properly so they were replaced with oem ones.

cheers.

 

[PHIL O]

romey, your bebs still look fine (relatively). but it is good that you took care of the issue before it got worse.
do we stay away from oem bebs in this case?

 

[Doug384]

Is this bearing problem unique to this model of engine or is it typical across the entire line? My 84 3B has 600K on it. Is this a maintenance issue that I need to dig into?

 

[amaurer]

Is this bearing problem unique to this model of engine or is it typical across the entire line? My 84 3B has 600K on it. Is this a maintenance issue that I need to dig into?

Not a problem for 3Bs.