1HD-T Fuel Tuning in NC / GA / VA?

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Joined
Apr 16, 2020
Threads
29
Messages
179
Location
Charlotte, NC
Hi all - Looking to get my HDJ81's fuel pump adjusted for a GTurbo installation. I have a line on someone local that I like who can do the work, but their backlog / timing might be an issue. Looking for any recommendations for a shop that would make the necessary pin and setting adjustments to get the truck running properly on the new turbo.

I'm in North Carolina, but I would tow / travel to get to the right vendor. I'm not sure if anyone on the east coast is even touching these at the moment?

Grateful for any / all help & guidance.

Cheers!
 
I have a 1993 HDJ81 and have used H&H Automotive in Charlotte. They have done a great job with my truck, including a fuel pump swap and a BEB changeout. I have also heard many talk about Trollhole's in SC and have met Marshall before at LC events. Great folks, but very busy.
 
I have a 1993 HDJ81 and have used H&H Automotive in Charlotte. They have done a great job with my truck, including a fuel pump swap and a BEB changeout. I have also heard many talk about Trollhole's in SC and have met Marshall before at LC events. Great folks, but very busy.
That is who I'll likely just end up waiting on. H&H does everything I don't care to on my 80, I love them & their work. I was just hoping there might be an alternative that could tackle this before 2026.
 
I had scoured the diesel forums as well and used that page for a lot of the work I have done on my truck myself. I have basic knowledge and didn't feel that doing the fuel pump was beyond my capabilities. I took an old fuel pump that I found on the forum and used it as a core to send off to @darkfoxdiesel, who has an Instagram page and is located in Canada, to get a rebuilt injector pump. His email is service@dfdiesel.com. He asked me questions about the setup I was looking for and tuned mine to 10 degrees over stock settings to accommodate the 3" exhaust I was installing. Cost me $1075 in 2022 for the pump. H&H did the installation. He is still active and might be a good resource if you want to send your pump off to Canada to get it tuned.
 
Possibly Morgan at Piedmont Performance. He does a ton of diesel work however not specifically for Toyota. I would call an ask him.

 
are you uncomportable with doing this yourself? Its pretty much two dials, the turbo waste gate psi and the fuel screw.

Set your desired PSI (12-15?)
Fuel screw till you smoke, keep backing it down by 1/16th turn so that you are runnign 300-350c on highway speeds on EGT. better if you can find a good uphill, staying under 550/600c at full load

If you are looking for huge power and stuff yea, maybe a dyno + professionals might help, but ive set my two tru=cks this way and modified it after a long trip to the beach (turning down as needed)

1/16 is real, it could mean 25+C plus or minus on EGT
 
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I had scoured the diesel forums as well and used that page for a lot of the work I have done on my truck myself. I have basic knowledge and didn't feel that doing the fuel pump was beyond my capabilities. I took an old fuel pump that I found on the forum and used it as a core to send off to @darkfoxdiesel, who has an Instagram page and is located in Canada, to get a rebuilt injector pump. His email is service@dfdiesel.com. He asked me questions about the setup I was looking for and tuned mine to 10 degrees over stock settings to accommodate the 3" exhaust I was installing. Cost me $1075 in 2022 for the pump. H&H did the installation. He is still active and might be a good resource if you want to send your pump off to Canada to get it tuned.

I will look into them, thanks!

are you uncomportable with doing this yourself? Its pretty much two dials, the turbo waste gate psi and the fuel screw.

Set your desired PSI (12-15?)
Fuel screw till you smoke, keep backing it down by 1/16th turn so that you are runnign 300-350c on highway speeds on EGT. better if you can find a good uphill, staying under 550/600c at full load

If you are looking for huge power and stuff yea, maybe a dyno + professionals might help, but ive set my two tru=cks this way and modified it after a long trip to the beach (turning down as needed)

1/16 is real, it could mean 25+C plus or minus on EGT

I am really not uncomportable, and considering at the very least roughing it in myself. Just apprehensive / chicken**** about digging into a diesel for the first time.

Definitely not a mechanical aptitude issue, I just need to feel more confident in my grasp of the actual parameters being adjusted. I've tuned boosted and NA things on megasquirt, etc before.

100% NOT looking for huge power - just a reliable truck with a little more torque that doesn't smoke profusely all the time.

I'll DM you if that's alright.
 
I'm not sure if Florida is a bridge too far, but I'd throw Odd Iron into this list of recommended shops. They REALLY know what they are doing with Toyota diesels. I think they did @AndrewHadji's 1HZ turbo install as well as some other work, if I'm not mistaken. They are a decent shop and have one of the best knowledge bases for Toytoa diesels on the east coast.

If you get stuck, they may be worth checking out or at least chatting with.
 
Hi all - Looking to get my HDJ81's fuel pump adjusted for a GTurbo installation. I have a line on someone local that I like who can do the work, but their backlog / timing might be an issue. Looking for any recommendations for a shop that would make the necessary pin and setting adjustments to get the truck running properly on the new turbo.

I'm in North Carolina, but I would tow / travel to get to the right vendor. I'm not sure if anyone on the east coast is even touching these at the moment?

Grateful for any / all help & guidance.

Cheers!
@torfab does sell new fuel pins, says they are out of stock on their website but that might not be accurate.
If I had seen this yesterday I could have asked Tor or Nick at their xmas party last night.


While I haven't touched a 1HDT pump changing the fuel pinw and adjusting the screww on the 4bt and 6bt were dead simple. Do you have a pyro gauge set up?

If you're doubtful at all though wait on H&H or see if a more knowledgeable club member in the area can join you. While a pretty simple procedure you can have a really really bad day if done incorrectly.
 
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@torfab does sell new fuel pins, says they are out of stock on their website but that might not be accurate.
If I had seen this yesterday I could have asked Tor or Nick at their xmas party last night.


While I haven't touched a 1HDT pump changing the fuel pinw and adjusting the screww on the 4bt and 6bt were dead simple. Do you have a pyro gauge set up?

If you're doubtful at all though wait on H&H or see if a more knowledgeable club member in the area can join you. While a pretty simple procedure you can have a really really bad day if done incorrectly.
Pyro gauge is in and ready. It feels tempting to try and make the adjustments myself, just concerned about what I don't know I don't know.
 
are you uncomportable with doing this yourself? Its pretty much two dials, the turbo waste gate psi and the fuel screw.

Set your desired PSI (12-15?)
Fuel screw till you smoke, keep backing it down by 1/16th turn so that you are runnign 300-350c on highway speeds on EGT. better if you can find a good uphill, staying under 550/600c at full load

If you are looking for huge power and stuff yea, maybe a dyno + professionals might help, but ive set my two tru=cks this way and modified it after a long trip to the beach (turning down as needed)

1/16 is real, it could mean 25+C plus or minus on EGT

Safari Tuning guide is extremely simplistic.
There's more imprivement to be had over what you'll achieve with this.
 
I know I'm late, but your location is VERY close to Trollhole and Marshall/Teddy. I'd start with them and see what your options are. I took my rig to them and they fixed what befuddled several other shops. Zero reservations in recommending them.
 
I know I'm late, but your location is VERY close to Trollhole and Marshall/Teddy. I'd start with them and see what your options are. I took my rig to them and they fixed what befuddled several other shops. Zero reservations in recommending them.

Fair enough! I'll see what they say.
 
Pretty much exactly where I think I'd find out that I ran out of knowledge 8psi ago.
Boost is not the killer.
High EGTs is.
Even then, it takes really high EGTs, over extended periods of time.

An older well known Aussie cruiser guru once posted pics ( on now defunct lccool forum) of exhaust manifold glowing red after driving 100's of km at 160km/hr on Aussie desert highways. EGTs steady at 800⁰C.

I don't suggest this is a good idea. In normal driving, with a diesel you'll typically only see peak EGTs for a few seconds at a time, maybe a few minutes of you're climbing mountain passes on the highway, foot flat to the floor, or pulling a heavy boat/camper/horse trailer etc.

I've tuned boosted and NA things on megasquirt, etc before.
Forget at least half of what you learnt about tuning if it was with gas engines.
Tuning a diesel is similar, but also some of it is kind of the opposite in a lot of ways.

In a gas engine, lean AFR means high combustion temps. Engine RPM is controlled by throttling the amount of air that the engine pulls in. Too much fuel cools combustion temps/EGTs and reduces power.

In a diesel, air intake is completely unthrottled, power & engine speed is controlled by how much fuel you squirt in.
Lean AFR means low rpm, and/or low power.
Turn the fuel down too much, it'll drop idle speed and you'll have no power.

Too much fuel creates heat, and raises EGTs.

Running a diesel with a lean tune means low power potential, low combustion heat.
More fuel generally means more power, but with a heat penalty and smoke.

You G-Turbo upgrade increases air flow at pretty much all engine speeds. More air in = leaner AFR = lower combustion temps, lower EGTs.
The turbo performance is also heavily dependent on his much fuel you squirt in. Lean AFR means low heat, but also relatively little exhaust gas expansion through the manifold and turbo.
The gas expansion is a big part of what drives the turbo. Old turbo conversions relied on smokey tunes to create a lot of heat and expanding gas through the turbo to drive poorly matched turbos from gas engines. This is risky.

Adding the Gturb, and not touching fuel settings is going to be safe. You may not see an increase in power. And performance may be dissapointing until tuned. But, you have a lot more air, and lower EGTs.

The other thing that controls EGTs is your right foot.
Even if your tune is currently ridiculousy rich, and you added the GTurbo as is, watch the EGT gauge, the EGTs climb high, back off on the throttle. Problem solved immediately.

Pushing a diesel hard at low RPM, high load, full throttle dumps a lot of fuel into a slow revving engine. This is when EGTs become high and dangerous.
Being aware of this, you can drive accordingly. Instead of pushing hard to crest that mountain pass in top gear with the engine struggling, downshift slow down a touch, let the engine rev. It'll thank you for being allowed to breath.

Diesels are slow revving compared to a gas engine, but they are happier at high RPM when working hard rather than laboring at low RPM
 
I know I'm late, but your location is VERY close to Trollhole and Marshall/Teddy. I'd start with them and see what your options are. I took my rig to them and they fixed what befuddled several other shops. Zero reservations in recommending them.
Trollhole/Marshall are some of the best in the country. And he is an awesome guy!
 
Boost is not the killer.
High EGTs is.
Even then, it takes really high EGTs, over extended periods of time.

An older well known Aussie cruiser guru once posted pics ( on now defunct lccool forum) of exhaust manifold glowing red after driving 100's of km at 160km/hr on Aussie desert highways. EGTs steady at 800⁰C.

I don't suggest this is a good idea. In normal driving, with a diesel you'll typically only see peak EGTs for a few seconds at a time, maybe a few minutes of you're climbing mountain passes on the highway, foot flat to the floor, or pulling a heavy boat/camper/horse trailer etc.


Forget at least half of what you learnt about tuning if it was with gas engines.
Tuning a diesel is similar, but also some of it is kind of the opposite in a lot of ways.

In a gas engine, lean AFR means high combustion temps. Engine RPM is controlled by throttling the amount of air that the engine pulls in. Too much fuel cools combustion temps/EGTs and reduces power.

In a diesel, air intake is completely unthrottled, power & engine speed is controlled by how much fuel you squirt in.
Lean AFR means low rpm, and/or low power.
Turn the fuel down too much, it'll drop idle speed and you'll have no power.

Too much fuel creates heat, and raises EGTs.

Running a diesel with a lean tune means low power potential, low combustion heat.
More fuel generally means more power, but with a heat penalty and smoke.

You G-Turbo upgrade increases air flow at pretty much all engine speeds. More air in = leaner AFR = lower combustion temps, lower EGTs.
The turbo performance is also heavily dependent on his much fuel you squirt in. Lean AFR means low heat, but also relatively little exhaust gas expansion through the manifold and turbo.
The gas expansion is a big part of what drives the turbo. Old turbo conversions relied on smokey tunes to create a lot of heat and expanding gas through the turbo to drive poorly matched turbos from gas engines. This is risky.

Adding the Gturb, and not touching fuel settings is going to be safe. You may not see an increase in power. And performance may be dissapointing until tuned. But, you have a lot more air, and lower EGTs.

The other thing that controls EGTs is your right foot.
Even if your tune is currently ridiculousy rich, and you added the GTurbo as is, watch the EGT gauge, the EGTs climb high, back off on the throttle. Problem solved immediately.

Pushing a diesel hard at low RPM, high load, full throttle dumps a lot of fuel into a slow revving engine. This is when EGTs become high and dangerous.
Being aware of this, you can drive accordingly. Instead of pushing hard to crest that mountain pass in top gear with the engine struggling, downshift slow down a touch, let the engine rev. It'll thank you for being allowed to breath.

Diesels are slow revving compared to a gas engine, but they are happier at high RPM when working hard rather than laboring at low RPM
@mudgudgeon This answers my most pressing question pretty thoroughly: "Can I get the turbo work done ahead of either tuning myself or seeing a professional". I'm going to knock that out this week, I really appreciate your thoughtful input here.

I have also been pouring over different materials I can find on these pumps, including documentation from GTurbo, Tillix and the above posted Safari guide. I'm feeling better about the safety of the approach / being able to walk things up incrementally as well as my ability to actually execute those changes. I'm going to make a different thread detailing what I think will be my approach to the pump adjustments, since this one was primarily "vendor search" oriented.

I'll link it here once I get it posted.

Thank you to everyone that chimed in.
 
I'm not sure if Florida is a bridge too far, but I'd throw Odd Iron into this list of recommended shops. They REALLY know what they are doing with Toyota diesels. I think they did @AndrewHadji's 1HZ turbo install as well as some other work, if I'm not mistaken. They are a decent shop and have one of the best knowledge bases for Toytoa diesels on the east coast.

If you get stuck, they may be worth checking out or at least chatting with.
Good people
 
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