1998 LC Rack and Pinion Question

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Apr 8, 2015
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Hey all I have a question. I've done some searching on the forums and it just lead to more questions so I'll just ask here.

I took the LC in for state inspection (MD) and it failed due to the rack and pinion and local shop wanted to charge about $1000 to fix it along with a couple other minor issues. I then took the LC to the auto craft shop here on base and the guy there lifted the truck so we could see what what going on underneath. As soon as we looked we saw fluid all over the R&P driver side bellow. So that seems to be what the local shop saw too. I don't notice anything when i drive but there is a slight rattle when I turn to the left.

Anyways, it was the opinion of the guy at the craft shop that I replace the R&P. I can buy the part and do the job myself on the lift there and just pay $8/hour to use the lift. All the tools are free so I basically have a fully stocked shop.

So here are my issues:

1. I've done some minor repair/maintenance to my vehicles, i.e. oil changes, changed some sensors and pumps, and brake pads, but nothing like fully replacing a R&P, so that has me a little worried.

2. Where the heck to I find a good R&P? I've looked online and found nothing but re-manufactured ones.

3. As I was searching the forums I saw a few people who just replaced bushings instead of the entire unit, is that an option?

Just FYI the truck is a 1998 100 series with about 142,500 miles on it. I have 30 days to get it fixed so I can get it registered. Thanks in advance.
 
1. I've done some minor repair/maintenance to my vehicles, i.e. oil changes, changed some sensors and pumps, and brake pads, but nothing like fully replacing a R&P, so that has me a little worried.
--Do it, how else can we learn? Things like that are totally worth the experience as long as you have the time and patience.

2. Where the heck to I find a good R&P? I've looked online and found nothing but re-manufactured ones.
-- @beno or other parts guys here

3. As I was searching the forums I saw a few people who just replaced bushings instead of the entire unit, is that an option?
-- I replaced the bushings, but I only had play in the rack - not leaking. Hopefully a more experienced member can propose possible causes of the leak, but imho no way would bushings solve a leak.
 
There is a thread how to on replacing the rack.. Pretty easy in the scheme of things.
I was going to buy from camelback toyota if I have to,do mine.. I find out tomorrow why my steering has the loose, dead spot.

Bushings were changed and got maybe 40% better but still loose in the middle. No other issues with leaking or anything though and my shop just checked the tie rods, ball joints etc in order to align it so maybe it's not my rack.. But anyway search for How to steering rack replacement in the 100 series forum pretty nice walkthrough there.

Make sure to totally flush the power steering fluid system before putting in new rack.
 
PM either Beno or Onur for parts.
 
I've used many "re-manufactured" r&p and never had a problem autozone even sells a a kit to re-manufacture/ rebuild your own... I have never done one but I would if i had the need it's just hydraulics... usually very hard wear surfaces so it's just a matter of replacing a few seals & wipers ... I re-build all the pumps and cylinders on my dirt moving equipment and forklifts I don't think a rack & pinion could be that different...
point being... I would not be worried about using a rebuilt unit
 
I'm a 2k owner, I ordered the part from beno, and had someone else do it. Well worth it.
It doesn't seem like a leak could be catastrophic but it's actually a forewarning of worse to come.

You will be glad you did, your steering will feel tight immediately.

And yeah, you won't have trouble doing this yourself, it's more a function of having the tools.
 
Guys thanks again for all of your help. I actually ended up taking it in to another shop for another opinion. They were able to clean it up and kept it for the dame while I had a crown lengthening surgery, yay, and found that there wasn't any leak. Long story short they charged for a de-grease job and passed my safety inspection for people's republic of Maryland. But another problem they saw was taking off the engine covers and breaking rusted screws. Oh well seems like a problem for another day I guess.

thank again all.
 
Hey all I have a question. I've done some searching on the forums and it just lead to more questions so I'll just ask here.

I took the LC in for state inspection (MD) and it failed due to the rack and pinion and local shop wanted to charge about $1000 to fix it along with a couple other minor issues. I then took the LC to the auto craft shop here on base and the guy there lifted the truck so we could see what what going on underneath. As soon as we looked we saw fluid all over the R&P driver side bellow. So that seems to be what the local shop saw too. I don't notice anything when i drive but there is a slight rattle when I turn to the left.

Anyways, it was the opinion of the guy at the craft shop that I replace the R&P. I can buy the part and do the job myself on the lift there and just pay $8/hour to use the lift. All the tools are free so I basically have a fully stocked shop.

So here are my issues:

1. I've done some minor repair/maintenance to my vehicles, i.e. oil changes, changed some sensors and pumps, and brake pads, but nothing like fully replacing a R&P, so that has me a little worried.

2. Where the heck to I find a good R&P? I've looked online and found nothing but re-manufactured ones.

3. As I was searching the forums I saw a few people who just replaced bushings instead of the entire unit, is that an option?

Just FYI the truck is a 1998 100 series with about 142,500 miles on it. I have 30 days to get it fixed so I can get it registered. Thanks in advance.

I used to live in MD and hated that damn inspection. If you're just looking to pass inspection, I've passed by simply cleaning up the leak and the parts. A nice clean steering rack with everything else being dirty makes it look like you got it replaced ;). I know you probably want to fix it, but this could at least get you through inspection and back on the road. Plus, it sounds like your leak does not require immediate attention.
 
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