1997 T100 with inoperable 4wd

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Hi yall. I have been without a 4wd Toyota truck since 2007 and ready for another. I sold my Tundra and have missed it. I am now wanting a T100. I have found a 1997 T100 for $3500, stated to be very nice, but the 4wd is not working.

Not sure of the details, but what is the most likely cause and is it costly to repair the worst case scenerio? Is $3500 too much for a nice T100 with non-operational 4wd? I really dont even need 4wd... just like the look of the 4wd better.

Thanks in advance.
 
Yup, probly a vacuum line or the actuator itself. I replaced my axle with a non ADD and added hubs.

That seems like a great deal. When you drive it in 4wd, ensure the front driveshaft is turning. If it is, the rest is easy and pretty cheap. If the transfer case won't shift into 4wd, then it may be a bigger issue.
 
TC in 2H, get under the passenger side and move the shaft... It should move freely.

TC in 4H, repeat... It should NOT move at all.

For that, the truck doesn't even need to be running... And it will tell you if the trouble is in the TC end.

God I hate Auto Hubs... Do like Kliers said and convert to manual hubs...

B/c the truck has to run and be in 4WD, you can't test the hubs... :bang: Either the TC will lock the shaft and the ADD is bad , or the hubs (ADD) will lock and lock the shaft and the TC is bad... Either way, you can't troubleshoot the system. (Easily)

If you knew the vac port to lock the diaphragm via FSM, you could. Pull off the vac line at the diaphragm, pull a vac, and try and rotate the front shaft.


EDIT: Auto Hubs in anything suck...

I converted my T100 by:
pulling a vac on the top line IIRC
Kinked the hose in my fingers
removed the vac gun
blocked off the vac line
let go of the kink...

Then I EASILY removed the drive flanges and put manual hubs on it.
 
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Just out of curiosity, what axle would you use?

It's 6" wider ya know...


My guess would be a Fj60-62...
 
I'd use an 80 series axle. One inch spacers should get er done.
 
Not sure what gears a 3.4l PU has an 80 axle 4.10 stock, 4 cylander PU will probabley have 4.10s so youd have to find a set of 4.10s for the rear or regear both....Steering is a good question money wise
 
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Not sure what gears a 3.4l PU has an 80 axle 4.10 stock, 4 cylander PU will probabley have 4.10s so youd have to find a set of 4.10s for the rear or regear both....Steering is a good question money wise


Well the 8" up front would be the best solution IMO... I don't see much use in having a 8" plus ring gear (Fj60) up front but it wouldn't hurt anything...

Using an 80 axle, you'd most notably you would run into...

LC is high pinion, the steering rod runs underneath it. So it's behind the axle, out of the way, but you have to use a high pinion with it...

Not saying Hilux knuckles would work on the 80 axles, but it might be worth a try. My friend had a Bj70 and he said my 84 Hilux has the same brakes... :hhmm: oh wait, they won't work. Forget it...

My 93 V6 4WD 5 speed T100 had 4:87 gears in it, from the factory... 4:88's will prolly work with it. Also depends on what gears are in this one...



So...

In other words...































JUST FIX THE ADD OR CONVERT TO MANUAL LOCKING HUBS!!!
 
Its likely the ADD. If you put it in 4wd, you should not be able to turn the front driveshaft. If you can than tcase is not in 4wd. If not than the add is probably bad. we have a few laying around here if you need one.



Hi yall. I have been without a 4wd Toyota truck since 2007 and ready for another. I sold my Tundra and have missed it. I am now wanting a T100. I have found a 1997 T100 for $3500, stated to be very nice, but the 4wd is not working.

Not sure of the details, but what is the most likely cause and is it costly to repair the worst case scenerio? Is $3500 too much for a nice T100 with non-operational 4wd? I really dont even need 4wd... just like the look of the 4wd better.

Thanks in advance.
 
What normally goes wrong with the electric version of the ADD? Unforturnately, my Taco has one, so it would be nice to know...
 
in this order i broke right cv axle then the left, after replacing both, the crown gear crunched and i couldnt find any add-ds diff replacments and tried one without the add, one for manuel hubs for $20, and i remember the part for the add didnt work because the internal mechanizem wasnt the same as the non-add the diff is the same but the theres something different with the middle shaft on the left doesnt fit to the diff
 
What normally goes wrong with the electric version of the ADD? Unforturnately, my Taco has one, so it would be nice to know...


Two different systems if you say yours in electric. :confused:

Where you're unfortunate is converting to manual hubs...

You can't lift that thing an inch or two b/f... I just better hush...



in this order i broke right cv axle then the left, after replacing both, the crown gear crunched and i couldnt find any add-ds diff replacments and tried one without the add, one for manuel hubs for $20, and i remember the part for the add didnt work because the internal mechanizem wasnt the same as the non-add the diff is the same but the theres something different with the middle shaft on the left doesnt fit to the diff


86-95 only

You've got me lost. The non-ADD axle is just a stub axle, no provision for a collar on the long shaft side.

The ADD axle does have a provision for a collar.

IFS_diff2.jpg


The ADD hubs are only flanges. Steel plates that the splines of the axle fit into, then they bolt directly to the hub. All they are is a non interruptible locking hub.

Manual hubs are interruptible. Lock and unlock.
 
You cant swap a manuel locking differential (one from a manuel setup) with the stub axle of an electric one.
One with add-ds auto locking hubs theres a difference in the diff internal placment of the shaft from my own expereince, u can not swap them it was a big waste of time.

Your better off buying a new crown & pinion (if broken) or getting one that matches its own system, or the stub axle of its own kind to make the switch.

ps sas, or be prepared to invest in CV joints and a good techinque on removing them on the trail its possible to do with out poping the lower balljoint, ball stud on stock height.

Then again i have really put my 3rd gens in the past through vigerous beatings but never left me stranded, iv ran them till it was creaking all over and the steering components all jiggilly and what not
 
Thanks for the replies. Well he said the light would come on and everything, but its just like it would not engage. He thought it was something electrical.

I am not sure about it now though... he said the engine had been changed and it seems to have been slightly modified and I wanted one that was pretty much stock. I may still take a look at it.

He also said the heater core was replaced. I didnt know this was really an issue on these. I wonder what all has to come out to replace a heater core on one of these?
 
Two different systems if you say yours in electric. :confused:

Here's a pic of the two types of add actuators.

img0873ok.jpg




"Where you're unfortunate is converting to manual hubs...

You can't lift that thing an inch or two b/f... I just better hush..."


No, please, do tell.
 
No, please, do tell.


Do you want me to use Downey's words? :p


I'd rather just take a pic of the article, but I don't have a cam that will do it right now.

:D
 

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